Possible to take apart and put together with no new parts?
 

ok my 12a is seized and mmo doesnt work. i was wondering if it is possible to take the engine apart and clean it up without buying new seals or anything? a total 100% re-use of the old parts?

myabe if things need to br replaced here and there, then replace on a individual basis.

what otehr than carbon lock can cuase a engine to seize?

Assuming that all internal parts ar re-useable, you still have to spend $$$ on the gasket sets.

Not unless you want it to leak like a sieve--- especially considering how old the present seals likely are. It would be a shame to get it apart only to find that it was merely carbon-locked.

Pull off the exhaust manifold and then use a borescope (rent one if you have to) to inspect what you can see of the rotors and inside surfaces of the housings. If the housings are gouged to shit in the vicinity of one of the exhaust ports you've thrown a seal or ingested something very hard. But if everything looks ok you may only be carbon-locked, all of the previously-mentioned cures on this and other threads (hint: the search button is a very useful tool) apply.

thanks!


now to look for new gaskets.

i will see about the borescope.


ive tried the MMO allready...think i might try some stp engine foam talked about in the carbon locked thread in the FAQ.


i think i will go ahead and get some new colant o rings and a intake mani gasket along wit a exhaust gasket, and check both intake and exhaust for wear and such.

hehe you know my old engin did the same thing and I tried anything and everything ...... what worked for me was put about 1/4 of a quart of oil realy heavy weight and then push the car up to about 35mph and then pop the clutch works like a charm I have done this to about 4 other cars and works every time.

hell yeah thekyl lol

i would be affraid of totally blowing out an apex seal.


I will take of the intake and exhaust first and see whats up, then i might try that.

i got it unstuck. compression seems fine. now to do a search on reseting the nikki becuase i can get it started, but only with the choke out and it barely runs. so it is behaving close to how it was when i last had it running.

Better check the spark plugs before you do anything else. If they're tan or grey and dry, and if the ones from the rear rotor are in about the same condition as the ones from the front the engine is ok.

But if the plugs from one rotor are wet and oily and dripping fuel while those from the other are not you've lost an apex seal. Another thing to watch for is if the plugs from one housing are steam-cleaned pearly white by coolant leaking into the combustion chambers. Not good.

thanks man! I will go take a look right now.

ok apex seals and all are fine, but i foing my coolant o rings between the block and intake manifold are shot. i have coolant leaking out onto the manifold, and i would assume that i am leaking coolant (not much ) into the itake.

spark plugs are fine except the engine keeps flooding out. i think my origional nikki has bit the dust...its not meetering right at all.

I think i need to save up to have Steerling/ RX7carl to work their magic.

Going to do a Compression test on it next week when i get my comp tester from my rents. just to make sure my comp is good, and that the carb is the problems.

How long had this car been sitting since it last ran? Just wondering, because unlike wine, fuel gets worse with age.

2.5 months. i should take a fuel smaple to check for smell and volitility.

the fuel in the tank is maybe 3 months old.

Should still be ok then.

well hopefully the enging isnt going out the door, but i will find out all that i can next weekend.