Omp blocked off/ pin hole block as well?
 

I am currently swapping over a gsl-se front cover, Oil pan, water pump and accessories to a s5 motor. I have been reading and planning to rtv gasket the cover and oil pan. My question is has anyone blocked the omp pin hole by the gasket bolt? Would doing this cause any problems? Sorry if this is a crazy question but this is my first time doing anything internally related with a rotary.

DO NOT use RTV sealant on the front cover!!! There is a special thin gasket for the front cover that is still available from Mazda and is reasonably priced. The oil pan is sealed from the factory with RTV. Ask the Mazda parts guy for the Mazda grey sealer. Works super well!

Okay now my question is which gasket. Because it is a s5 motor with a gsl-se cover? A gsl-se or a 86-92 front cover gasket?

even if 2 separate part numbers, i can't see why there would be any difference. the mounting surface/shape is the same for both.

That is what confused me because it looks the same

If you can find an S4 water pump housing it can be adapted to use on the GSL-SE front cover. You'll need to S4 water pump. I've done this on several 12A motors.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...226d5a8be1.jpg


https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-12-a-1116674/

Has anyone successfully used a s3 waterpump housing on a s5 motor. I know the gasket between the housing and motor for the s3 has 2 bolt holes and the s4-s5 has 3 bolt holes.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b08fa5bb4f.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd9b9b721b.png

You'll need to remove the extra stud or convert to an S4 water pump housing. If you plan on running the S5 computer I'd switch to the S4 pump housing to retain the S5 sensors.

Here is what I did to convert to 12A. You would NOT need to do all the tapping for sensors if staying S5 computer and wiring.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d6eee39184.jpg

Thanks for the help, I am swapping to a Weber carb setup so as of right now. I'll post back if I have any more questions.

I never use gaskets on front covers for ITA or E Production race engines, those are the only FB based engines I build. Also if you don't want to wait around Permatex's "Right Stuff" is also what I use for both the front cover and oil pan. Apparently they did change their formulation a bit ago but I haven't seen any negative side effects. Again, these are race or completely stripped down track car engines. Out of curiosity what weber/manifold configuration are you going to run?

A weber 48 ida setup with a racing beat cast aluminum intake manifold.

Ah, neat. I just sent someone up to Sonoma for the runoffs running a heavily modified RB manifold and a 52 Berg (IDA on steroids). Those are fun to drive as well as hack on.

This will be my first time tuning a Weber carb and a rotary so we will see how it goes. I know before with the 85, 6 port 13b with just a racing beat header and exhaust the car felt gutless, especially up top. I am hoping this new setup with a 4.77 rear gear will wake the car up once I get everything dialed in.

That's a great combo, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

I have owned a lot of FBs and few have been as much fun as one particular stripped down GSL-SE w/ weber 48IDA, RB exhaust, and 4.88s. That car was hilariously fun. Good luck with it! :)

I did not want to start another thread for related questions to the swap. I am considering jb welding my emissions ports closed. Is this a good idea if I do it like a quarter inch into the port where it doesn't interfer with intake manifold sealing and let it dry properly? This is the only way I can think of properly sealing it. I only am finding stuff about sealing up the actual intake manifold emissions stuff not actually where the intake meets the motor.