ok ive searched but im tired of sifting
 

could i get a list on what parts i need for my gsl to a (1990) turboII engine swap

i know i need the following
driveshaft(custom)
ecu
harness

for example
do i need a new rear end

No,a healthy non abused stock rearend will hold up for quite a while.Mine held for over 4 years after 100K of previous use.It still wasnt bad when I changed the pumpkin, and the axles were perfectly straight with 300HP going into them and lots of traction from the 245's.

If your gonna go stock ECU with the S5 engine in a 1st gen,your gonna have some issues with the electronic Oil Metering Pump.To mount the engine, youll need a GSL-SE oilpan and front cover.The S5 OMP will not bolt to an SE front cover like the mechanical S4 OMP.I had my cover's OMP pad built up and machined to accept the S5 OMP.Since its electronic,you cant just pitch the thing and run premix or run a S4 OMP.The S5 ECU will go into limp mode and youll be running 15MPH tops.

Youll have to plumb up a turbo oil drain to the front corner of the cover.The OMP blocks the normal drain point,but theres just enough room to squeeze it in on the corner edge.I wont even get into oilpan turbo drains.Its below the oil level and just not a good idea.

Youll have to fabricate the left side wiring harness for the coils,ECU power,fuel pump and a couple other things.Its not hard,but basic wiring skills and diagram reading ability will be needed.An FSM makes it MUCH easier.

Youll need high pressure fuel to the engine.An SE fuel tank and external EFI pump will work.I choose to modify my old tank by installing a 2nd gen in-tank pump setup.Its very clean,protected and quiet,and it best mimicks the stock TII setup.

Shifter will have to be moved forward about an inch.Or youll have to trim the tunnel out and live with a non-centered shifter.Look elsewhere in the 1st gen section for more info on this mod.

i think youd need the racing beat engine mount with your current motors front cover. How much power you want? I think the rear end can take around 300 hp?

You can use an SE front plate and right motor mount for precision,or bend/grind the 12A stuff a little and itll work.
Drivetrain capacity is measured in lbs-ft of torque that it can withstand.Even a built up 13BT doesnt have a lot of down low torque,so the stock drivetrain can hold up pretty well.Just dont beat the snot out of it and try to limit wheel-hop with prudent suspension mods and itll hold up just fine to a 300HP-250lbft 13BT.

im aiming at less than 300

so basicly i need an se....hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...