Oil Pressure Sender
 

Could you take a one wire aftermarket oil pressure sender(I have an autometer one) and hook it put to the existing stock oil pressure sender wire and get a reading? We all know the stock sender isn't very responsive.. Or is there another reason for that?
Figured this would be a solution, I'm not a big fan of adding aftermarket gauges,

I dont trust electrical sending units/gauges either so I highly recommend a mechanical gauge. and oh yeah, dont waste your money on the top names like autometer and such....eqqus work fine.:nod:

you could, but you need to find a sender that has the same output as the stock one.

No it will not work unless the voltage is the same. You need to have a sending unit that is made for your after market gauge. So if you have a autometer oil gauge you will need to buy a autometer oil pressure sending unit so the voltage is the same.

it's not the voltage, it's the resistance in the sendor. has to match the gauge.

It actually is an equus.
And I'm not trying to hook up the stock sender to an aftermarket gauge, I'm trying to hook a aftermarket sender up to a stock gauge. Figured it'd work considering they're both one wire, but I guess not. :scratch:

Output? As in reading? Enlighten me.

the sender changes resistance with oil pressure, so you need to find a sender that has the same readings as the factory one.

Well, I think it'll work then, my sender goes from 0-100 psi.

he means the actual ohm reading that the gauge requires.

I knew I was wrong, was good while it lasted. Lol.

Ask some people here on the forum to sell you a stock sender. Problem solved. :)

I just don't think the stock sender is accurate enough, it seems 'slow' and unresponsive.
Am I the only one?

i bet the gauge is damped.

Every gauge I've seen is that way IMO, it's not nearly as responsive as my autometer, which Is also electric.

no need for senders with mechanical gauges. and the reading is instantaneous.

The stock gauges are electrothermal; they work by having the resistance-controlled current from the sender heat a little heating element, which flexes a bimetal strip which in turn moves the needle. Fuel gauge, temp gauge, same thing.

Cheapest possible way to make a gauge, and it automatically damps the reading because the heating element and the bimetal both take time to react. Good for a fuel gauge, not so good for an oil gauge.

Most aftermarket gauges use electromagnetic movements - much faster response. Can be much more accurate, too, if made well.

Mechanical (Bourdon tube) gauges are generally more accurate and faster (depends on the quality of the electric gauge), but IMO dealing with the "don't bend too much" capillary tubes is a royal PITA if you're trying to mount them someplace hard to reach. Electric gauge wiring is a lot more convenient to work with.

And they don't leak into your cabin if they fail.

Exactly why I run electric gauges