oil metering pump not metering oil. I think.
well I was out playing with the idle on my rex and just happened to look at the oil metering lines that go to the carb. the damn things were white. not brown like they would be if they had been full of oil. Im quite sure that I read somewhere that the rotary engine uses them to inject a bit of oil into the combustion chamber since there are no pistons going up and down lubicating the top of the cylinder. So I asume that this is bad thing. tomorrow I am going to o out and get me some MMO and dump some into the gas tank, but that isnt a permanent fix.
I have a spare engine (and who dosent have a spare engine just sitting in their garage for that "just in case" situation??) and can pull the OMP off that one, but how involved will it be? I hope to god it dosent have any of those fun little hidden springs that will shoot into parts of the garage that have not been explored since it was built. has any one had this problem before? I doubt that I am the first to have an OMP go south. Lets hear how you all fixxed it. Mike |
When mine stopped working I threw it away and started pre-mixing. Just had to whip up a plate for the opening on the front cover.
If you decide to retain the OMP then you can swap in the one from your spare engine. It's just a matter of unbolting the pump and slapping the new one in. Nothing to it. :) |
If you are pre-mixing, do you have to "throw away" the OMP and fabricate a cover? Would it be ok to leave it in place, pre-mix and ignore the OMP?
As an aside, has anone ever thought of feeding the engine MMO by using the OMP? |
take a small piece of white paper or something, stick it down into the primaries by the oil jet and see if its metering or not.
|
Originally posted by SPEKEEZ
If you are pre-mixing, do you have to "throw away" the OMP and fabricate a cover? Would it be ok to leave it in place, pre-mix and ignore the OMP? You can't leave it as is. You can not just cap the lines to stop it pumping. As you would have to remove it anyway to disable it, you may as well leave it off and put a block off plate as Revhead did. As an aside, has anone ever thought of feeding the engine MMO by using the OMP? You can do that using the adapter plate from these guys: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm About $100 U.S. With that plate and using the cold start assist reservoir, you can use MMO or two stroke oil for injection. It also allows you to use synthetic oil in the engine (if you wish) without worrying about burning it in the combustion chamber. -John. |
As an aside, has anone ever thought of feeding the engine MMO by using the OMP? You can do that using the adapter plate from these guys: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm About $100 U.S. With that plate and using the cold start assist reservoir, you can use MMO or two stroke oil for injection. It also allows you to use synthetic oil in the engine (if you wish) without worrying about burning it in the combustion chamber. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/images...n-ADAPTERS.jpg |
Thanks FJ! That sounds great . . . if memory serves me right, the old 2 cycle, 3 cylinder Saabs had a metering device that alleviated the need to pre-mix gas! Everything new, has been done before?
|
I replaceded my Oil Metering Pump 5 years ago with a new one and it is working fine
|
how much MMO do I add to the gas tank? I plan on premixing. it seems easier.
|
I use 2-stroke motorcycle or out-board oil at about 150:1.
|
One oz per gallon will give you 128:1.
In case you're not into math. :) -John. |
1/3 quart per fillup seems to work for me
|
but my oil metering pump still works
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:41 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands