oil metering options?
 

I was looking for a cheap and effective way to use 2 cycle oil. I do not want to worry about what ratio is in the tank so, I do not want to go with premix. Is there something I can pick up at a hardware store or maybe a junkyard? I have seen some after market pump systems that cost lots of cash. So far its either block the omp and go premix or buy one of those expensive pumps. Are those really all the options?

I premix, its easy, carry a small long neck funnel, pour in 1 oz of Sythetic 2 stroke per 2 gallons of fuel, rinse the funnel with gas. dry funnel while gas is filling up.

Takes me an extra 20 seconds.

search omg omp in the archives. there is that thread with a link to a omp alternative

I found the simplest way is to use the STP fuel additive bottles with the long neck.
Measure 8 ozs. in, and only put 10 gallons of gas in when it gets low. Oil first, then fuel.
I have 3 so I don't have to measure and fill that often, and theyr'e good for long trips.

The $reservoir is the only alternative that I know of.

Omp
 

I think the ideal way would be to feed the OMP with 2 stroke oil from a reservoir.
That way you get the benefit of the OMP adjusting the flow rate based on throttle opening and you can then run synthetic in the oil pan for the engine internals wile using a non residue 2 stroke oil for the apex and side seals.
I have not yet been able to find a nice three - four quart reservoir.
A few small riding mowers have the right size, but the shape does not fit at the passenger side firewall area.
I may need to fabricate a tank from aluminum.
Try the search to find OMP adapters.

JUst use MMO....it too has a long neck for easy pouring! Block off your OMP and you cant go wrong......that is as long as you dont forget to premix....lol

Is this what you’re referring to by an expensive aftermarket pump? Still have to have the stock metering pump though.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

$72-88 is cheap insurance to get 2 stroke into the engine and not have to worry about pre-mixing.

I have the RA OMP adapter (bought it from wrxracer55). I really like it. I have an ebay catch can and it holds enough to last longer than a full tank of gas. If I were to test it, i would say it would last me a tank and a half but I dont want to risk it.

IMO you are forgetting the real reason for premix. the mixing. the factory oil inj. dribbled down the inlet. Pre mix mixes it with the fuel for better lube! Am I wrong?

Pre-mixing can give better coverage for lubing the internals.

How many engines have blown up due to a properly working OMP? I am sure that the premixing is better, but the adapter is easier and is definately better than the crankcase oil scenario.

Omp
 

I have raced two stroke dirt bikes for years and wanted to convert my OMP as well. I took off the OMP and cleaned it very well. When you replace it you will need 1 large Nitril o-ring for the housing, 2 medium Nitril o-rings for the ends of the pump, and 2 small Nitril o-rings for the actuater arm. Drill the backside of the pump housing where the oil enters from the crankcase. Tap it for a brake bleeder and JB weld it in place. Next take a small rag or gun cleaning patch and put it on a string. Stuff it into the crankcase where the pump sits. The string is to prevent it from falling into the engine. Use a small dremmel tool and cut a slot from the oil galley to the hole for the pump drive bushing. This will permit oil to lubricate the bushing once you block off the pump. Trace the outline of the pump flange onto a piece of sheet metal about .020 - .040" thick. Drill the mounting holes and hole for the pump drive shaft while it is a large piece it is easier to hold. After that, cut the outer shape. Apply gasket cement to both sides of the block off, the engine side, and the pump. Remount it on the car. I went to a junk yard and found a window washer bottle that was convient for my car (91) and mounted it on the fender well near the firewall. You must have at least 8" of drop to operate properly. The hardest part was making a blocking plate for the washer motor which I removed. Connect the New reservoir to the OMP by way of a plastic tube and fill the reservoir with good 2-stroke oil. I use Golden Spectro and a tank lasts several thousand miles. I have two lines feeding the housings and the other two going to the float bowl of the carb for a "pre-mix". You can now feel free to run Moble 1 in the crank or any other synthetic. If I can figure how to post pictures I will show you the whole set up. Total cost was under $12.00. I will soon be doing the same modification on my two son's cars ( 85 GSL-SE and 85 GS with a 13b Holley). If I can find room my FD will also get the same treatment. I am absolutely sold on the benifits of running the Golden Spectro in any 2-stroke. Hope this helps.

And where can we buy this Golden Spectro oil? How much is it and how big of a jug can I buy?

Golden Spectro is a motorcycle oil so you can get it at most dealers. It usually comes in 12oz bottles but also comes in about 3qt jugs. Google it and you will find the best deals. It is much cheaper than at the dealers. It is a synthetic, low ash blend and burns very clean. Where most oils neede 32:1 Spectro was run (in racing motorcycles) at 60:1 with better protection. With the OMP delivering 100:1 using regular oil, the same ratio of Spectro should give superb engine protection. My car is jetted, does not smoke, and runs cleanly. I only have about two thousand miles on this engine but of all the many years and many different motorcycles raced I never had a stuck ring or scored piston. Someone out there probably has tested it. Please add it to the post if you have other info. The conversion of the OMP is a very easy thing to do and it gives the best of both worlds. It gives the metered protection of the pump. It gives the ability to use better grade two stroke oils no matter what type you prefer. It lets yo run synthetic in the crankcase. It gives the ability to have enough in a reservoir to go a long distance between fillups. And finally gets rid of the mess of premix. If someone would PM me on how to post pictures ( mine are mostly 2-4MB ) I will show the conversion. Thanks.

I sent you a pm.. I got 2 extra omps a 'se and 12A.

I have to thank Drunkclever for instructing me how to upload photos. OK - here goes with some pictures I took tonight of my conversion of the OMP from a bottom feeder to one that sucks clean two-stroke oil. The whole process doesn't take but a short evening and cost very little. I have been testing the results the last 1500 miles with no adverse effect.

Photo 1: Here is a list of the nitrile O-rings you will need.
Photo 2: The two end O-rings must be metric for there is just barely enough room to
fit in the groove at each end of the pump. I found it easier to fit the O-ring
then clamp a flat piece of metal over it for an hour. It should now be the
shape of the groove and ease the installation.
Photo 3: The main pump lever shaft has one thick seal OEM. The two small O-rings
fit side by side and do the same job.
Photo 4: While you are at it get rid of the factory oil lines which are very brittle by
this point in time. Manhattan Supply Co. sells PFA tubing ID=.125" which
will withstand the engine temperatures. They also sell the stainless clamps
which you crimp onto your original banjo bolt.

Photo 5: If you look closely you will see I colored the area inbetween the oil galley
and the OMP shaft bushing. You must take a small burr on a Dremmel and
cut a slot here or the oil will not reach the bushing and it could seize. Be
careful not to get chips into the engine. You can plug it first but remember
remove the plug when finished.
Photo 6: These are templates of the metal block off plate and the gasket needed in
the conversion. Simply trace around the base of the pump. When you seal
OMP to the engine coat both sides of the gasket and plate with a thin film.
You want to avoid getting excess into that oil galley you just cut. This step
is actually done after photos 7 & 8.
Photo 7: This shows the area you will drill and later tap for the brake bleeder. I was
out today and don't have a bleeder on hand for pictures so I didn't actually
drill this pump yet.
Photo 8: Here the pump is mounted in the vise at an angle so you can drill the hole
for the bleeder. It needs to be at an angle so you have clearance later.
After drilling, tap the hole for the proper thread and coat the bleeder with
JB Weld and install it. This will never be removed so make it tight so there
are no leaks. Look on the inside of the pump and make sure you don't clog
any of the oil passages with the epoxy.
Photo 9: Here the yellow arrow points to the hose you will now put over the end of
the bleeder. The hose will run to your remote reservoir.

Photo 10: This is a slightly different view of the OMP installed with the new PFA
feeder lines and the remote reservoir line coming from the left.
Photo 11: Here is the washer bottle I got from the junk yard for the reservoir.
When you get one, have an idea how much space you have to work with
and get the mounting bracket. It saves lots of grief fabricating. I think
this one was actually from an RX-7.
Photo 12: You will want to remove the windshield washer pump and make a block
off plate ( I used .125" aluminum plate ). Drill a hole in the middle to
accept a 3/16 - 1/4" barbed fitting. Tighten the nut on the inside of the
plate, seal the threads, and mount the entire plate back onto the bottle.
Photo 13: The finished job has the remote bottle mounted on the fender where
you can find room. Fill the bottle with any good two stroke oil and you
will be set for several thousand miles depending on how much capacity
your bottle is. You still get the advantage of the OMP pumping more
oil under acceleration. Don't yell at me because this is on my FC. We,
in our family, have also done the conversion to two 1st gens ( 85 GS and
85 GSL-SE). I think this is a worth while conversion. I got the idea from
a 1970 Yamalube setup I remembered from my first dirt bike. After all
a seven is a two stroke at heart.

thats very very nice.

I was going to approch it a slightly differnt way. I was going to try and totaly seal off the omp from the engine by blocking the oil galley with a nice peice of metal. Then I was going to get a nice peice of aluminum and cut so that it fits the plate that you took off here.. https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=180248

then add the inlet oil bleeder to that. Just one simple little block with a bleeder. Now you don't have to be all carefull when drilling the omp. Best part would be if you mess up the threads you can just use another peice.

I thought that gets its oil from the other side. very interesting. I can not wait for tomorrow, me and my dremal are going to get down and dirty.

I was baseing my decision on an assumption that the engine turns the shaft on the omp, and then that produces a "sucktion" on the area of the picture above. ov'chourse if this is not the case then the way I was thinking of doing it is just wrong. I hope I am atleast half correct :Wconfused I am going to make the block and post tomorrow if I have time.


I really appreciate your knowledge and help.

I'm interested to hear how your version of the modified pump works. Sounds like a good idea and it would certainly be in a more accessable area for mounting the bleeder. The reason for the cutting of the oil slot was to make sure the bushing in the engine is thoroughly lubricated. The oil running through the pump lubricates all the pump parts.

far as i know the 12A oil galley is large and feeds the bushing and the omp. If you cover up the inlet for oil from the engine on the omp, then cut a peice of aluminum. Measure it up and tap it to accept 2 screws and the nipple. I don't have time to measure things up and cut some aluminum. Hopefully thursday or friday I will be able to get everything set and done, aside from finally priming my car up saturday.

this is what you want to cut a peice of aluminum forhttps://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=180248

has this set up proven it self good.

i love the idea and the home engineering it took.

i want to make the conversion to my turbo II daily driver,i just realy wanna make sure it wont malfuctions after a few thousand miles and blow my engine..

i was thinking twise about using a brake bleeder and jb weld on the omp,so i desided to tap the pump with a 5/16-24 fitting.and i think it worked out perfect tell me what you guys think

i have to give credit to (cmsprofessor) i think this idea is nice. plenty of my buddys like it.