Oil Cooler Water lines go to where?
 

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...b/DSCN0523.jpg
Non-RX application. I know water runs through them, but does it go through the heater core?
Would building a t-pipe for each radiator hose work?
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...DSCN0523-1.jpg
Or, since I'm not running a heater on the vehicle, can I use the heater lines?

I guess, mostly, I have no idea how the water cooling works on the oil cooler.

before you spend hours of hair pulling, do you know why the oil to water cooler were only offered on 83-85 12-A's????

i do that is why i have a T11 oil cooler on mine!

They were offered from '83-'85 because they were a pain in the ass and not nearly as efficient as the later coolers, I know that.
I have an aftermarket cooler, but from what I've read, it won't be as efficient as the later coolers, so I was gonna run the water cooled one till I can gather parts.

I noticed that I circled the wrong lower tube. The actual one is a bit lower.

Anyone have an answer on if those lines run through the heater core?

On the 83-85 cars that had that (crappy excuse) oil cooler, the heater hoses were "T"ed, and went thru the cooler or heater. The return heater hose was also "T"ed, to accept the water from the cooler.
Your idea of putting a T in the top and bottom hoses won't work. Water will actually need to be pumped into the cooler, or it won't do any good at all, like it really does anyways.....

The beehive works surprisingly well when you remove the restrictor.

Would it be better if I ran my aftermarket Flex-A-Lite 3951?
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...flx-3951_w.jpg
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It has barbed fittings meant for standard hose clamps, which worries me, since everyone that upgrades to a FMOC has hydraulic fittings pressed on.

There's always the hope of acquiring an FC cooler, but if I can make either of my coolers work, that's what I'd prefer to do.
I also have the plate that the other 1st gens had for the oil filter, so no issues there.

I'm sorry that I'm not understanding well, but it sounds like the way that you have described it functioning would allow me to get the same effect if I ran the water cooler instead of a heater core

the problem with it is that it uses the coolant to remove heat from the oil. But the coolant generally can be hotter than the oil itself, so it can also act as an oil heater. If the inlet is coming FROM the radiator or heater core, then its temperature will be much lower, but a thermocouple might help you determine what temperature that coolant is to see if its worth it.

You are correct, using it in place of a heater core would work as well as it ever did from the factory. The real problem is, the heater needs hot water to work. This water is often at, or near, 180F. Therefore, the oil CANNOT be cooled any lower than that temp.
Granted, the front mount oil coolers have a bypass in them that doesn't open until the oil exiting the cooler reaches ~150-160F.

I used an infared temp sensor to check the oil and water temps going into a beehive once. The water temp going into the beehive was 173F. The oil entering was 143F. The oil filter was 170F. Granted, this was after the engine had warmed up, and been driven for a while, but had been allowed to idle for a couple minutes while I got out, raised the hood, and got the temp sensor out.

Wow, that's incredibly inefficient. Ridiculously.
I'll look into FMOCs some more, but I'll probably run this cooler to fire the motor up.

I've heard that our engines tend to blows large holes in any aftermarket coolers, no matter what their pressure claims...

Our engines can spike in oil pressure when they are first turned over and somehow the stock FMOC's are able to handle it.

I have an 83 that i'm switching to fmoc, fyi