Oil Cooler Fittings
I know about welding the cracks, but didn't someone find some stronger fittings that could be welded one the stock oil cooler several years ago? If so, what are they?
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U have to b more specific. Beehive oil cooler or FMOC? Year of the car etc. Why do u want diff fittings?
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Cut off the stock bungs. You can find aluminum -10 male AN fittings that you weld in there.
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the AN fittings work very well as mentioned above. the stock bungs are very strong if you weld them to the cooler. this is an excellent method if you plan on only using the stock style lines.
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I read the banjo bolts are 16mm for the 1st gen FMOC, and that you can use a 16mm to -10 AN adapter and run AN lines. True?
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1 Attachment(s)
Ok, I'm missing something here. An AN-10 male has a flare with the large end at the outside and it tapers smaller toward the inside.
Example: http://pitstopusa.com/c-136048-fitti...-fittings.html The male end of the stock fitting that goes into the hose is the opposite, that is the large end of the flare is at the outside with the small end on the inside. See attached pic. I are only a college graduate, I do not understand. Thanks Scott |
hoses and cooler you have is a 1st gen front mount
,,, the units with banjo's that everybody is referring to is the 2nd gen oil cooler which has banjo bolt attachmnets i think you are reading conflicting advice about different oil coolers when adapting these aftermarket hoses you need to keep a keen eye on the ID several times now i have seen people fit hoses and adapters that take the ID down significantly the mazda type hose and fittings work just fine ,, and when you need a repair,, pushlocs can be found in similar ID no need for wanky fittings that complicate , choke, leak , cost |
Ah, thanks for the info! The cooler I have is an S5. Figured the FB cooler was set up the same way.
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Oil Cooler Repair
Is there anyplace the KNOWS what they are doing with FB oil coolers? Someplace that can weld up the necks properly AND PRESSURE TEST it before they give it back to me?
I'm not in a hurry and I don't mind shipping it somewhere if they will do it right. Thanks Scott |
swap with an FC cooler.
the FB front mounted oil coolers have sub-standard thin wall threaded bosses, which have a tendency to crack and there is no easy fix. |
what most people are referring to as far as AN fittings are concerned is custom made oil lines, because the stock lines don't hold up very well.
also, you don't need to post several threads on the same topic. |
Threads merged.
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I am looking for an Oil Cooler for a Mazda RX 7 GSL SE.
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Originally Posted by nelsonrivera2@yahoo.com
(Post 10799460)
I am looking for an Oil Cooler for a Mazda RX 7 GSL SE.
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Originally Posted by Stripgear
(Post 10791676)
Is there anyplace the KNOWS what they are doing with FB oil coolers? Someplace that can weld up the necks properly AND PRESSURE TEST it before they give it back to me?
I'm not in a hurry and I don't mind shipping it somewhere if they will do it right. Thanks Scott |
If you use AN lines this will help too. I hooked my AN lines up to the oil cooler and pressure tested the whole shebang. Very helpful as if you do it like that it'll test the cooler and all the AN hardware for leaks, including if they weren't tightened enough. I filled it up with 150psi of air and put it under water. The front pressure regulator bypasses @ 150psi so your oil cooler will never see more than that. Letting it sit overnight and checking the pressure the next day = reassurance.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3272 |
3 Attachment(s)
Welding up the cracks didn't work for me, so I made my own fittings. If anybody wants to make their own, you'll need some 1 1/8 aluminum rod, a 16mm X 1.5 straight tap, and a 14.5mm drill, and probably a lathe. The sealing surface must be exactly perpendicular to the threads or it will leak. I've got some extra material, if any needs a pair PM me.
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Originally Posted by Stripgear
(Post 10854411)
Welding up the cracks didn't work for me, so I made my own fittings. If anybody wants to make their own, you'll need some 1 1/8 aluminum rod, a 16mm X 1.5 straight tap, and a 14.5mm drill, and probably a lathe. The sealing surface must be exactly perpendicular to the threads or it will leak. I've got some extra material, if any needs a pair PM me.
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