I have done several GS to GSL rear without swapping to GSL mc and pv. No complaint/issues to date. So if everyone wants to argue if they should be matching or not, bring it on as I can back up what I posts

 

Not trying to argue. Just stating that there is differences between the two systems, and the logic behind using the different components to get the best possible performance out of the system.

I also can back up my findings as I have tried both combinations.

 

I know what you're talking about and I have both systems in my 2 RX-3's also (1 has a by-pass removed). IMHO, removing it is a waste of time. I didnt notice any difference between braking on both RX-3' (converted to rear disc brakes).

 

so my problem is i'm kinda forced to use the drug master cylinder and proportioning valve from my SA because i already have the rear brakes connected using a SS line i had made. i would prefer also to not have to run new lines, so all my fittings are a different thread than the disc brake MCs and PP vavles. So, does anyone have a good link on what to remove in the PP valve to get them working properly. Right now they have constant pressure on the rotors.

 

Well, I'm going to back up Wacky on this topic. I installed a GSL rear on my GS last year, and kept the stock master and pv. I've had no issues, and the braking is awesome.

It sounds like some people have some very good reasons why this should not work properly, but real world results seem to say otherwise...


.

 

My car is an S model with gsl rear. Drum brake master and p-valve. My pedal goes down quite a ways and is squishy. The rear brakes drag a little.

Solution?

I'll use a disc brake master and prop valve because I want a firm pedal that starts braking near the top of its travel; that's how my bro's GSL-SE was.

 

You don't need to do all that valve this and valve that...I have 1979 SA mazda rx7 running the stock 12a sa BMC no problems awsome brake pressure when i did the gsl-se swap...Just listen to wacky there is no difference....

there not


+1 im not an old school cat, but i found the combination to work really well, and to this date and some odd 10yrs laters of ******* with 7's the combinations of valve this and valve that make no difference...So im with wacky and kentetsu on this one...

 

as soon as my usb for my phone shows up, i'll put up the pictures of the proportioning valve. my theory on why some people have no problems and some people have big problems with the swap is because the spring in the PV gets weak or maybe the vavles part breaks or something, letting the fluid pass...but the drum brake pv check valve has a pretty decent sized spring in there keeping constant pressure to the caliper, keeping a constant drag...got my pads smokin'...so it makes sense to me why some people have no problems, and others have this problem of brake drag. this is only my thoughts, from my experience with 1 car, 1 swap, 1 time...and just the few different things i've gone through trying to get it workin' properly.