New to the Carbed RX7. Have a few questions.
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Any pics out there of mixture and idle screw?
Found this vaccuum line blocked with we yeah.. os this necessary? (Drivers side) Attachment 549499 |
I have 1982 gs.
I wos told my car was running rich so i need help. |
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Originally Posted by WombatPigeon
(Post 11845822)
I have 1982 gs.
I wos told my car was running rich so i need help. In this forum, 2nd post from the top Sticky: Download a copy of your year fsm!..... Click on the link in the post. In the First Generation section, under Other, you'll find the 1979-85 Carburator Manual. Its in sections. You have an 82 so you want the 81-82 section. On pages 47-48 (page numbers) are the locations of the adjustments and the procedures. |
Sweet, free extension!
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Thanks for location and guide. Now seriously though why was that hose blocked off? :o i remove the plug and it blows and make car stall.
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Originally Posted by WombatPigeon
(Post 11846033)
Thanks for location and guide. Now seriously though why was that hose blocked off? :o i remove the plug and it blows and make car stall.
It goes to the air cleaner, that lonely pipe coming out the bottom in your pic. Mine did this and I replaced the valve. |
In the image, if you disconnect the vacuum line from the rats nest and apply vacuum to the hose going to the valve and it flows air through, the valve is shot.
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Pull the rats nest, strip the nikki!
my 2 cents.:lol: |
Car runs smoother with a functional rats nest. But it is more work to keep it all working.
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Divin, you're coming from an SA perspective. I'd think that an FB, with its weird shudder valve causes a one rotor motor during decel (or is it the coasting valve? My 1st gen nomenclature is terrible as I've never had to deal with any of it. What's a hot start assist motor good for anyway? lol). The S4 NA does this too in PercentSevenC's red FB, which goes into one rotor mode during decel to help with emissions I guess, but it always freaks me out as the second rotor kicks back in and the engine smooths out at idle and gets really quiet. Makes me think the engine stalled every time. Oh and you don't really save gas mileage with EFI either because the factory tune was set very rich to keep the cats alive, which his car doesn't have. But when he borrowed my full RB long primary exhaust, the paint barely aged due to how cool the always-slightly-rich exhaust gasses are. j9fd3s said a slightly leaner tune gets you more HP which his car kinda needs.
So does the car really run smoother with a functional rat's nest? Well, the stock flywheels on these are pretty heavy by an enthusiast's standards. 30lbs, 23lbs, then finally 26lbs (but with lighter rotors) on each 1st gen series during their production runs. That's heavy enough to mask just about anything shy of a broken apex seal. ;) But does it run smoother with a functional rat's nest? Maybe, if everything is stock. Otherwise, get a light steel flywheel, delete rat's nest, take out the shudder valve and cut a new channel in the manifold, go direct fire, go long primary exhaust, rebuild the carb and strip off the complicated mess, hog out the primary venturis and do all the other recommended carb mods, and you'll have a 1st gen that can keep up with today's traffic. Have you seen some of the 200+HP grocery getters these days? It's crazy. With my mods list, you'll be as quick as all of them, and better than some. |
Originally Posted by wankel=awesome
(Post 11846327)
Pull the rats nest, strip the nikki!
my 2 cents.:lol: |
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what do you mean by cut a new channel in the manifold?
Also when you say direct fire, are you talking about a MSD ignition or similar? Thank you, I am trying to understand the things that will improve power without porting or getting so radical that the car becomes unreliable or requires continual attention. Thanks again Rich |
Simplest direct fire is to install a 2nd gen leading coil pack, used ones are about $25 and it takes about 20 minutes.
I agree with Jeff, the shutter valve system is best disabled, for the reasons he points out. But if you want better performance and gas mileage, keep the rats nest. It makes the Nikki work much better, especially on short drives where warm up is an issue. Better gas mileage, fewer emissions, smoother throttle response. On the other hand, if horsepower is the only issue and you don't mind rough idles, choppy throttle and less than 15 mpg, strip the nikki and kill another first gen that used to be in original (more valuable) condition. |
Originally Posted by ray green
(Post 11847181)
On the other hand, if horsepower is the only issue and you don't mind rough idles, choppy throttle and less than 15 mpg, strip the nikki and kill another first gen that used to be in original (more valuable) condition.
I never owned a nikki that did less than 17 mpg... (and none of mine have had rats nests) I think the usual way of thinking that leads to pulling the rats nest is for simplicity. I know my first FB wouldnt have even run on its own had I kept the rats nest. My dad and I spend hundreds of man hours trying to troubleshoot it until we finally just chucked it. That was decades ago, and it still runs. Well. With a clean keg (original to boot) and no unnecessary emissions equipment. I hardly think its actual value could be hurt much by removing it, but then again I dont care for anything from the 1980's that is "all original" in terms of performance, simplicity, efficiency, value, or even visual appeal. Opinions, everyone has one. |
Originally Posted by wankel=awesome
(Post 11847205)
:/
I never owned a nikki that did less than 17 mpg... (and none of mine have had rats nests) I think the usual way of thinking that leads to pulling the rats nest is for simplicity. I know my first FB wouldnt have even run on its own had I kept the rats nest. My dad and I spend hundreds of man hours trying to troubleshoot it until we finally just chucked it. That was decades ago, and it still runs. Well. With a clean keg (original to boot) and no unnecessary emissions equipment. I hardly think its actual value could be hurt much by removing it, but then again I dont care for anything from the 1980's that is "all original" in terms of performance, simplicity, efficiency, value, or even visual appeal. Opinions, everyone has one. |
True enough J9, laws is laws, in this case opinions will just get you in trouble.
Just like with gas mileage, facts is facts. When I stripped my Nikki one summer, I started getting a reliable 16-17 mpg out on the highway. (forget about it around town) That's why I put the rats back in. With my 110 mile daily commute in the fall, I needed to get back to the usual 22-23 mpg with the rats installed. True enough, the car is simpler without the nest, and those rats can be a challenge to diagnose and maintain. But a well kept rats nest is a thing of beauty in its own right. Just ask DD. |
They do give the bay a lovely sort of steampunk attitude when they're all cleaned up.
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My fat nikki gets 24 mpg all day long with no rats nest and its smooth as silk until you punch in
the secondaries. I think I did all the mods that you can do to the nikki and it was time and effort well spent. I feel for you guys in Kalifornia where the rats nest has to be retained. |
I hate California. I cant wait to go to the Air Force already so i can leave this dumb state.
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