Need help fixing my horn. have pics
 

I thought that the horns on the car were bad so I pulled them and used a tester with a light in it, you know the cheap screw driver kind.. anyway there was a bright light but no sound.. so I tossed them, I am a ideot! It turns out that the horns need to wired directly to the battery for them to work. You don't need the tester with the light, the horn will not make a sound. anyway.. so I bought a pair of horns and connected them but still no sound. I pulled the button out of the steering wheel and only found one wire. Is that correct? well I got my cheap arse tester out again, since it was black I connected a battery to it but got no light. I took the wire that comes out of the steering wheel and connected it to the tester, nothing again. Thats where I am stumped! hanes and the other book doesn;t mention anything about this problem that I am haveing.

How many wires come out of the steering coloum for the horn? what else could be the problem?

the wire in ur hand is the positive wire. the ground is via the body, since its all grounded. if you connect the ground on your horn mechanism with a wire to a screw etc, somewhere where it can keep a steady ground, then connect that positive wire to the other terminal things should work... when you touch the end of the wire thats in ur hand in that pic to the steering wheel does the horn go off? if not theres a problem elsewhere...

thats what I am saying.. I used the tester to check if that wire was positive.. no light came on. I am going to check if I can find that wire someware in the dash. If anyone knows what I am looking for please let me know. I need the upid horn to pass inspection. I am going to check the fuse box again.

My button went bad on my Grant wheel so they sent me out a new one for free. It was less then a year old. That could be your problem also.

I haven;t checked the button but I will do it now. I took off the steering wheel and the plastic and found 2 plugs that are not in use, it seems one is completely with out electricity and the other is has one constant power and one.. ground(?) humm not sure. anyway can anyone tell me these are in use.. here are the pics..

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...d=108345&stc=1

How do I remove the switches for the lights and stuff? How do I get down to the bear steering shaft itself?

the button is ok. I just checked it out. I am looking in the hanes book at the wireing diagram but it looks like scribles my 6 year old would do. I can not figure out why theres only one wire coming out the steering wheel.

let me say now before someone asked.. I have a 1985 gsl.

ok I looked at the diagrams in the books and it had me lost right.. this is what I am going to do.. since i need to do something quickly..

I followed the wires from the front.. they are a green with white. Gw or something like that in the diagrams. I am not sure how a relay works however.. I do know how to complete a circute. I found 2 identicle wires in the wire loom next to the battery. I opened them up and connected them to the positive on the battery, first one make clicking noise someware around the master cylinder 2nd one scared the shit out of my pants(horn) good I though... Is the clicking sound i hear a relay? From this point I am sure I can wire a make shift button in the dash to sound the horn. I am not sure if its going to pass inspection, I have to try atleast. Its getting dark out. Its a pain to work with a flash light. I think I am going to call it quits for today.

I wonder if anyone knows if that clicking noise was the relay.

Correct me if I am wrong.. the horns have a circute... and the button on the steering wheel has one if its own. IF thats true then theymight be connected by the relay.. is that what its for..humm. I am going to need some extra strengh asparin soon.

SOMEONE TELL ME SOMETHING USEFULL!!!!!

Here is a wiring diagram http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/file...g_Diagrams.pdf

Your horn switch grounds when you press the button... first thing is to test the button... you said you did, but how? What process did you use to test it? The single wire going to the button AND the horn switch can be tested easily.

Take that single wire at the steering wheel, and jumper it to a KNOWN GOOD ground. If the horns work, or the relay clicks... you know that the wire is good and your button is bad.

Your horn relay looks to be on the firewall, it should have a Green/Yellow wire going to the horns, Green/Blue going to the switch inside the car and Green/White coming out of the front harness.

The horn has 2 leads on it. One I connected the wire at the steering wheel the other I connected to a ground. It wasn;t working. I took the button over to the battery with a tester and it worked fine. I then checked the wire coming out of the steering wheel. I connected it to the ground with a tester, it showed no eletricity.

Horn button works.. no juice going to the lead at the steering wheel. All fuses are ok.

With all the dirt and oil on the wires its allmost impossible to tell Gw from Gy. I am going to open the harness up around the relay and follow the wires into steering wheel. Maybe there is some sort of sort I can fix.

Do you know what color wire is the lead that goes into the combination switch?


Thanks for your help, I have the wireing diagrams however, I am too stupid to read them accurately. I use them to give a clue as to what I am looking for.

Warning,,, This is long
 

I take no responsibilty whatsoever for your actions. Don't blame me if you screw something up.


hey,
so check out the schematic that jrs10 posted.
Top of 3rd page tells ya the color codes.
Rest of 3rd page tells ya about relays.

Horns drawn tons of current! More than that little black wire can handle. That wire gets twisted and untwisted about 100 times a day, every day, as you steer. Imagine that sucker getting hot & shorting out from tons of current meant for the horns, in that long metal tube of a steering column, and trying to fish THAT wire outta there !!! So.. they use relays to turn on and off big currents. And they can use small supple wire that twists and untwists easily over and over... to turn the relay on.

Relays use a small amount of current (1/10th or 1/4 amp?) in their electromagnetic coil to pull a spring loaded piece of metal across a pair of contacts that handle 20, 30, or more amps (Horns use maybe 3 to 7 amps(?) It depends on the horn!!!

That NO (normally open) relay in the lower left is what your horn relay is. Normally open means, when theres no current thru the coil, theres no current (i.e., an open circuit) at the contacts. Since the horn is normally off, the the coil isn't pulling the contact in, and the the horn circuit is off, a.k.a. open.

The electromagnetic coil is on the left of the little square.... the 2 heavy duty contacts are the 2 little circles, and the contact piece that bridges the gap is the solid line. The dashed line indicates that the contact piece is controlled by the coil.

Now go to page 50-24. The battery is at the very upper left of this schemat. The negative terminal is connected to the frame, it is called ground by convention, everywhere on the frame is therfore "at ground". Ground is noted by that triangle or arrow made out of 3 lines. You'll see it all over the place.

The reason for using a ground symbol is because EVERYTHING uses a ground at one time or another, and by using the ground symbol ya dont hafta draw 3 freakin billion ground wires everywhere, making the schematic tougher to deal with than it already is!!!

Guess what happens if ya dont have a good ground? NOTHING WORKS! Its just as bad as not having a good positive supply.

The other stuff? Well,the double arrows are pins and sockets of various connectors and the solid black arrows are telling you to go to some other page for the rest of that circuit.

Goto the right side of the page and check out your horn circuit. When the horn button completes the coil's circuit to ground it turns on, pulls the piece across the contacts which completes, or closes, the horn's circuit, they turn on and tell the mofo in front of you to get the hell outta the way.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
See that fuse above the Stop light switch? if thats blown niether your brake lights or horns will work. I think you said the fuses are good, but check out the brake lights. If no brake lights, check that fuse.

Lets check the horns. You said the actual horn works, so what we'll check is their grounds and their connectors. Run a piece of 18 gauge or thicker wire from the positive term on the battery to the Green wire with yellow stripe ((GY), see color code on 3rd page). Be CAREFUL here. There's no fuse to help protect anything. Keep ahold of that wire and don't left it scrape against ground (the frame). The horns should sound. DIsconnect that wire from the battery before doing anything more!!!

If no horn then the connectors or the ground(s) are bad (or you lied about the horns being good :-) ). Clean the grounds by tracing the wire to where it connects to the chassis and using a little sandpaper buff the wire and the chassis till they're shiny, and reconnect them. Squirt a little Lithium grease or WD-40 on it to prevent it from corroding again.

Check the connectors by shorting across the 2 heavy duty contacts of the horn relay. You can do this by pulling the relay out just about a 1/16th of an inch and jumpering (shorting) the 2 heavy duty contacts labelled GW and GY (check out horn relay connector pin diagram at bottom of page 50-24). You might have to pull the relay out all the way to see the labelling on the bottom of it. If the horns sound the connectors, horns, and grounds are good.

That leaves the relay, the switch, and the wire.

That connector labelled E-01 on the schemat is the little silver one on the black wire you're holding in your hand in the horn.jpeg picture. Ground that wire, the coil turns on, and the horns should sound. If it sounds then your relay is good, but the switch is bad or the ground that the switch uses is bad.

still no horn? Use a voltmeter and put the red lead on the wire and the black wire OF THE VOLTMETER on a good ground (the RIM of the cigarette lighter is a pretty solid ground). There should be 12 volts at that wire. If not, pull the relay out and check the GW conector OF THE RELAY'S SOCKET for 12 volts. if there's 12 volts, then the coil in the relay is bad or the wire in the steering column is bad (Yikes!).

Find out which by using the ohmmeter function of the volt meter. there should be 20 to 100 ohms of COIL resistance from GW to GL on the relay. Also measure the resistance of the wire in the steering column. Ther should be 0 to 2 ohms from the GL relay socket connector to the connector you were holding in your hand.. Also check for a short from the black steering wheel wire to the metal steering column. Should be infinite ohms.

HOPE I told you SOMETHING USEFUL!

Jeff

if i am still unable to fix this then I am jsut going to stick my tonge on the positive and my wet left hand on the negative


thanks, everyone for time and help. I am going to go work on this right now, since its not raining.

well I done. I am going to look for an electician to do it maybe. The relay that I thought was the one for the horn was something else. I looked under the steering wheel and found several wires were cut and hell I even found out that someone wired the stinking fuel pump directly to the fuse box. The harness has serveral wires cut. I am not sure if they belong to it because there was an alarm installed the vehicle.

At this point what I am going to do now is breath. Monday I am going to look for a electrician to do it. when in dought.. pay for someone to help you out!

Sounds like they cut the horn wires when they took the alarm system out. Most of the old alarm systems beeped the horn when they armed and disarmed.