Shouldn't Step 8 read "Repeat steps 6 & 7," rather than "5 & 6"?

Yes, it should. I have fired my editor.

Impossible to tune.

It didn´t tune so i start to look inside the carb wille it was running, move the accelerator by hand and notice that every time the engine crank different there was a lot of fuel comming out from here, red arrow.


http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0042_large.jpg

I still didn´t see the cause, but any ideas for the reazon that it was droping fuel as a crazy?



So i take it out and here is some picts for you just to see how "clean"
this carb was.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0041_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0035_large.jpg



This is a picture from the back level, engine stop
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0034_large.jpg



And this is the front one , more close to center after i play with it.


http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0036_large.jpg



after i removed the carb, most of the one i have see in the forum are only open
in one side, this one is like you see, don´t know if is better or not.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0032_large.jpg



Close shoot of the intake


http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0031_large.jpg



How about porting at least the center ones? too much closed what do you think?

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0029_large.jpg



More pictures of my car here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3254885/3

Sterling, please tell me, based on the windows pictures, they are high correct ?

The level line should be on each side right on the mark ? that V that we see means is too high?

I think it should be one single horizontal line!

One more thing that i need to adjust is the "primary throttle valve initial opening angle" , as it is soo close that i almost can´t see the light pass, i´m going to try make it like manual says, 0,05mm (0,002 in ), still one side looks more open then the other.

Your bowl levels look fine, but the primaries look to be too far open.

Ok tanks.

About the primaries no, i was taking it apart so the coil was not there, thats the reason they are open on that photo.

Like i say in last post they were too close, i have set it at 002 in, it was a litle adjust but now the gap is there.

I check the 2 weigth and the 2 ball´s, all were in place

I have to made the gasket by hand, don´t know if it will work.

If anyone have suggestions about this rebuild, just put it out. most of this things are new for me.

By the way, the weigth one the acel pump is very small compared to the other one.

It is as large as the ball, if not less, and is like dacing because it is tinny.

Could this also cause dripping gas on the back primary at idle ?

No.

The richer solenoid must be properly assembled. If it is not, then there will be a direct air route that goes from the very top of the fuel bowl at the front of the car down through the main body of the carburetor and throttle body to a port in the opposite diagonal primary bore in the cast steel throttle body.
The fuel bowls have to have a vent in order to work. Since the vent acting on the fuel bowls is much larger than the port from which the richer solenoid circuit can cause a vacuum leak, it is unclear at what engine RPM the throttle-body / manifold vacuum demand would over-power it and begin to effect the atmospheric pressure acting on the fuel in the bowls.
I suspect this could happen when the engine is revved beyond about 4000 RPM, but I'm not sure. If and when this occurs, it could cause a temporary flooding issue, but it should effect both floats evenly. When they return to normal, one may be hung up sometimes... But that part is all speculation.
However, the presence of the vacuum leak to the rear rotor is definite in this scenario. I have come across this when people strip the Nikki and do a good job of blocking all of the external ports, but fail to completely block all internal ports to the richer solenoid circuit.

The correct way to install the richer circuit components is to remove everything and install the solenoid first. then install the weight, cap screw & jet. Be sure the spring is inside the solenoid before the piston. You can also remove only the solenoid, simply flip the carburetor over so the weight falls toward the top, and screw the solenoid back in.
There is no check ball.

Some more pics.

It is a slow work because i don´t have much time, today i take out the
exhaust to clean some extra pipes inside, the suppose cat was strange because
there was only one pipe inside, it was not like actual cats, will post some pictures
later.

since it was out, i want it to be painted and clean.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0044_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0048_large.jpg



i hoppe i did it correct

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0045_large.jpg


Something is telling me to clean also the engine

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0043_large.jpg

Exhaust output

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0046_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0047_large.jpg

I suspect using a flat feeler gauge will give you too much initial opening... supposed to be set with a wire guage, so you are measuring the opening only at it's widest point.

I personally have never been able to find a small enough wire guage, so I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base, with the tip right against the top of the butterfly arc, which seems to work OK.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0051.jpg

How did you do it?

set it to 0 and than open till it goes inside that 2 marks?

I also have that dial indicator and the base, since the carb is still out i will check it later.

Tanks for the ideia

I set the gauge tip against the side of the butterfly that comes 'out' from the bottom, loosened the carb adjusting screw so the butterfly was fully closed, zeroed the dial, and adjusted the screw until the dial gave the specified opening in thousandths. I think the US spec was less than 0.002", but don't remember exactly - - was several months ago.

Since I had the dial guage set at the same angle that the butterfly inititally moves in it's rotation (instead of straight up) and it was touching the very tip, there's no significant trigonometric error; valve motion equals opened distance. Motion on either side of the butterfly is symmetrical, so the opening distance is equal regardless of which side you measure.

It worked out well enough that the car started on the first turnover, and later, passed California smog tests.

Finaly got it runing

this was the first try to run it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUfQw9lDLy0


And here idle at normal temp, after i change to electrical fun the temp meter is in
vertical, before it was lower.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1t_aOYIVyw

Still neet to go adjust the smog (co2) and full test it on the road, but for the moment is much better.

Tanks to everyone that replay and give ideias for this, and now my exhaust is not getting red anymore

Congratulations!

Tanks DivinDriver, but the problems didn´t end yet.

The glow exhaust is no more, but the carb is still not ok.

now that i adjust the initial angle there is fuel coming from the 2 centers at the top, i go to check the CO2 make it run in acceptable level but notice that sometimes the CO2 go high, check the top of the carb and there it was, fuel droping like crazy again.

There is suppose to be a place were the air pass if the engine is at idle, because i didn´t have this main problem before i repair the breack hose that was conecting the crank venting.

Later i´m going to make it work as it was before, same vacuum in same place.

In general the car is must better, run better and don´t backfire laud as it was before if i rev over 4000 rpm and change gear, but still not that engine with 100hp looks more a 70hp or less, the fuel filter is new (the first thing that i was able to buy for this car here, and that is because there is some Hyundai that use it also).


I consider going EFI in short time, maybe Megasquirst

If the mixture was adjusted previously with a big vacuum leak, you'd be running rich now. You have your initial angle adjusted, but now you have to adjust your idle mixture.

Are your bowl levels still correct?

Yes, that was one of the things i have check and double check many times during
the time i was trying to adjust it on the co2 machine.


I notice one thing in this engine, don´t know if any of you have this setup.

There are 2 hoses connected to the crank, one comes from the filter, the other comes from a vacuum connection, right there under the carb, this vacuum
connection use to have one ball and one spring, this makes air pass only in
one direction, the spring still was there but the ball never find it, so i get one of
the same size to fit there.

So the function of this is to make the air coming from the air filter pass on the top of the crank removes any vapor oil etc and send it inside the engine, and this was a permanent air input that i have repair and later block it permanent, leaving only
one connection to the top of the air filter, i´m going to restore this.

But still no reason for the low power over 4000rpm, and a good reason for it to suc more air from the top of the cab making it drop some fuel

The vacuum line you describe from the air box to the crank case, then case to intake check valve is the pcv system. Plumb it as you described. Either repair your valve with a new ball, or get a pcv valve for something else.

The dripping you get from the primaries is fuel being pumped past the bowl inlet valves. You don't want that dripping. Either the float is not closing the valves well enough, or the valve is toast. That is easy to inspect if you remove the top of the carb again.

Also confirm the fuel return line is free flowing. There is a check valve in-line as it heads back to the fire wall.

At 3k RPM the CO2 is ok, so this must be related to PCV valve not working, making too much vacuum to pass from the primaries and suck fuel with it inside the engine.

If you see the first video it looks that it start very easy, but before that i have to crank the engine without spark plugs several times in order to have fuel on level,
i have also pump some compressed air to the tank because it was not coming only with the pump, i have replace the fuel filter so maybe the lines drain all fuel and it takes time to refull it.

Now, about the fuel pump, if we are cracking the engine, should not be a constant flow of fuel?
I notice that if i crank only for 1 second and stop the fuel coming from the line was the same quantitie as if 5 seconds of cranking, it this nornal?

Hello,

after many modifications my 12A end with some extra parts.

Megasquirt, CBR600RR ITB´s with air filter and 8 injectors, i have also made the Headers, and intake.

https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-f...my-12a-835786/


Some more fine tune to finish, but it runs every day.

Tanks to all that have help me.

The car is getting fun now.