More progress on my car (the tan junker)
 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...294_9_full.jpg

To this:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_22_full.jpg

Before:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_17_full.jpg

After:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_29_full.jpg

Before:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_19_full.jpg

After:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_24_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_25_full.jpg

And here's one of a air cleaner-less engine

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_20_full.jpg

The brown color around the little black nipple thingy is the original color of the car.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_31_full.jpg

How I'm painting my logos

I see you have your work cut out for yah. nothing weeks of elbow grease can't fix :)

I'm looking forward to the work. I'm gonna do a red/black interior, so I'll need to take all the plastic I can out and spray it down. Yay!

cool. wish i had that ambision.

I'm known to be a bit too ambitious. Does anyone know of any plastic peices that don't come off? Also, can I just use a regular spraypaint to paint the interior plastic? Thanks in advance :)

Eek?
 

Okay, it would appear that I've been a little bit mis-informed about this car.
It appears that the fluids were NOT drained from the vehicle as I had originally thought.
Should I be especially worried about anything? How do I go about in correcting this mishap?
I know it isn't locked, but, I don't know much about this kind of stuff. Help?:eek:

you'll have to drain it all...engine oil, tranny fluid, rear end fluid and engine fuel...and replace.

It's time to learn. :D

Jack up the car and support it safely with jackstands.

Drain the oil by removing the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Catch it in a drain pan. Change the oil filter while you have the oil drained. Filter is located on top of the beehive oil cooler. DO NOT overtighten it. Its easy when it is right up there where you can torque on it. Put the drain plug back in, add 4 to 5 quarts of oil.

For the tranny, remove the drain plug on the bottom. Get your drain pan and catch the fluid. Put the plug back in. The fill plug is located on the drivers side of the trans? It is up near the top of the tranny on the side. Remove it. You'll probably need a length of hose to stick into the hole. Now you can dump your fresh gear oil into the tranny. Most people recommend a good synthetic. Do a little searching and you'll find what everyone thinks is best. I can't remember.

The differential (rear end) fluid is done pretty much the same as the tranny. You'll just put different fluid in when you're done. Check your Haynes manual (you do have one right?) or search here on the forum again to see what everyone prefers. Just look for the drain and fill plugs on the pumpkin, you can't miss 'em.

Fuel: Depending on what your 7 is there may or may not be a drain plug on the bottom of the gas tank. Take your gas cap off to vent the tank. Crawl under there and look. If there is a plug then remove it and the gas will come out. Change your fuel filter while you're down there. Put the plug back in and fill it with fresh gas. The older first gens don't have drain plugs on the gas tank if I remember correctly. Most do though. If you don't have one then you'll probably have to drop the tank. It should be there though. Good luck!

Jamie

Thanks again, guys. Man, I wish my car was at my house!
Need to get rid of a stupid little Ford Escort to make room for it :(

OH, and, it's seems like it's almost a full tank of gas. If the car was just sitting for between six months and a year, should I REALLY worry about this? I mean, hell, if I can get free fluids. . . . . I know I'm definately changing the oil and tranny fluid, but that gas. . . .
BTW, I can only seem to find AUTOMATIC transmission fluid. . . .
The only stick I'd ever driven before was a Ford Escort that still belonged to my father, so he took care of all the fluids :D

Peace

If its a standard it uses gear oil in the transmition. To see if the gas is ok take the fuel line off of the top of the carb put the end in a container turn the key on for a few seconds it will pump some fuel into the container, then check the fuel if it still smells like gas its ok if it smells like paint its bad. but to be on the safe side put in some fuel stablizer in maybe some carb cleaner.

Drain the GAS, No need to gum up the carb more then it is. It takes less then 6 months for GAS to go bad.

It is a pity to lose the gas, but, to be safe, I'll follow y'alls instructions!

I hate to be a post whore, but, what do these switches do? Not the window switches, the ones farther back (toward the back of the car)


http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_26_full.jpg

Found out! The one that's more on top in the picture is for CRUISE control, and the 'lower' one is the Rear Window Defroster.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/644294/4

its not called transmission fluid, its called gear oil, ask a counterperson at the parts store

for the transmission and rear end fluid i'd get redline...its one of the best ! :)

i always order my tranny and rear end fluid from http://www.synlubes.com/ ... they are good in price and shipping and are great to work with... :)

Get the MT90 for the transmission and the 75w90 Gear Oil for the rear end

good luck

I used bumper and trim paint on all my interior plastic.. Works great if you prep it right.. You have to clean it meticulously.. Then I used alcohol on all the pieces to get rid of the detergents and oils from my hands.. Duplicolor makes a flat black bumper and trim paint that works good. All interior plastic pieces will come out.. Including the dash pieces.. Just be very thorough about which screws go where and the order you take the pieces out.. Good luck.

What is a good RED paint to use?

AFTER:
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BEFORE:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...94_34_full.jpg

You'd think it was the other way around. Sorry about the poor image quality