More Pix...Cold Air Intake (slow connection beware)
 

Here are some pictures of my cold air intake. Used a dremel tools to cut through the rad. metal housing. Went to Home Depot and grabbed some heater hose and plastic drain connector. Moved the reserve overflow container. (make sure it's lower than the top of the rad.)
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=576778

another pic
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=576781

another
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=576783

another
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=576784

final picture. enjoy. :)
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=576791

Looks Good - loods lighter than a lot of the "home made" jobs I've seen! What did you use to connect the snorkle to the duct pipe? Is that one pce of black plactic or did you use a rubber connecter to splice the plastic thingy to the duct - and if so, what exactly is the rubber connecter? What did you use to collect air in front of the rad? And finally, how much of the snorkle did you remove - appreciate your reply - once again, nice job -

Yeah I noticed that too. :D It wasn't what I going for though. Although I can't complain. The plastic duct pipe it awsome, because 1. it's thin plasitc, so you can squeeze it to force if into shape with a metal clamp. 2. One end is square shaped which fit on the Nikki carb perfectly and the other end is a circle with allowed the heater hose to fit in perfectly. I used a metal clamp to make sure it was a tighter fit. :) But it really wasn't nessary. To collect the air from the rad. I used the theory of when air hits the rad it goes to the side. So the hose side on the side of the rad collecting air. I've seen setups that collect air from the front of the car, but didn't really see a need to do that. The heater hose came in a length of about 3-4 feet(not streched out) I cut it down to 2 feet (not streched out).

very nice job! I'm trying to duplicate the same thing so hte picture wil help me out with my project.

I would recommend it to anyone. The temps are lower going in to the carb then sucking in the engine bay heat. It's a easy setup. I just had to remove the rad overflow container and cut the rad housing on the side for the hose. Drilled two new mounting holes for the screws that the overflow container mount needs. Just remember that the container needs to be lower than the top of the rad.

Oh I forgot to mention that the total mod cost was like $13 not including the cost of owning a dremel tool and a drill.

:eek: OMIGAWD ARE THOSE EMISSIONS CONTROLS I SEE??? ARGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!

do those give more power? i know in theory it should work, but do you really notice a difference?

:rofl: yes that's what you see. The weather keeps changing over here and I can't seem to get a break on taking them out. I'm currently running a stright pipe without cats if that help you any. ;)

I'm not sure it will be noticable difference in power gain if any at all. In any case colder air is a good thing. :) Doing tests show the air is colder than what it was with the stock setup

http://pittdp.homestead.com/files/uh01_1b.jpg
I notice a little but not much, I would say it might give 3-5 hp but of course that is not much at all, But I do like the way it looks on my car.

I bought the EXACT same heater hose from Home Depot, I didn't find that sweet connector though I'm gonna have to go back and look for that one. I did it over the summer, I notice the biggest difference getting off the line after extended highway driving....without it, the car chokes on it's own fire breath. I've iced my carb quite a few times....be careful in the colder weather (Canada) at highway speeds. I pulled my air cleaner lid once and saw ice entirely covering the back barrel and partially covering the front barrel. No wonder I was walking all over everyone, that is until it started cutting out.

Go to the gutter section of Home Depot they have all types of connections for rain gutter draining. I agree with you, if anyone plans on setting something like this up please keep your local weather patterns in mind. Especially cold freezing weather. I would have taken more percautions if the weather around here was more colder through the year but it isn't which is kinda nice. :)

Please excuse me for my lack of car knowledge, but where does the end ( the end by the radiator) lead to? Does it just sit there, or is it attatched to something?

Also, where did you relocate your overflow tank to?

I'd like to do this someday soon, since it's cheap, easy, and an improvement over stock.

thanks

duh.. lol. I see it :doh:

If your asking where the end of the hose goes. I got really lucky, the opening that was cut from the side of the radiator housing was a perfect fit for the hose. A nice snug fit, so it won't be going any where. ļ Also since the hose is made from soft aluminum metal I formed a funnel shape at the end to catch more air. Now this is were my differs a bit from other setups. I have the funnel parallel to the front of the radiator instead of pointing to the front of the car. The funnel in theory is to catch the air the is being bounced off the radiator. I hope this helps. :)

is there any sort of power increase on a n/a car with the cold air intake? does it run any smoother?

thanks..
so, in lamen's terms, just cut a hole in the metal and shove that hose in there so it don't move no more? lol..

I'll try that this weekend.. IF i can borrow my neighbor's Dremel...:eek:

well, i don't notice a power increase, but it does seem that my little 12a likes the extra cold air, and runs a bit smoother. :)


Yep, cheap, simple and effective. :) hehehehe

I cut a hole so that the hose goes through to the cold air side and is firmly mounted. I relocated the hose under the intake line using a L bracket, I can get you guys a nother pic if needed.

could you put a cone filter on the end of that and connect it to a cold air box? would that save you from having to have the air filter inside the blue housing?

cheers'