mega squirt in a first gen?????
06-05-05, 06:36 PM
#1
Chad Carson
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mega squirt in a first gen?????
Anyone running a mega squirt in a FB?
If so what is your set up? 2 or 4 injectors?
I have larger injectors on my rebuild and would like to loose the AFM but have some thoughts and questions.
If so what is your set up? 2 or 4 injectors?
I have larger injectors on my rebuild and would like to loose the AFM but have some thoughts and questions.
06-05-05, 08:20 PM
#2
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I am sooo close to finally finishing mine. Lots of setbacks. Waiting to order new injectors, then I`ll be done.
I got a 12a tho, and had to fab stuff. You are doing this to a SE? There is more support for those conversions. You may also want to look at the msefi.com forum.
I got a 12a tho, and had to fab stuff. You are doing this to a SE? There is more support for those conversions. You may also want to look at the msefi.com forum.
06-05-05, 10:18 PM
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Chad Carson
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Originally Posted by jayroc
I am sooo close to finally finishing mine. Lots of setbacks. Waiting to order new injectors, then I`ll be done.
I got a 12a tho, and had to fab stuff. You are doing this to a SE? There is more support for those conversions. You may also want to look at the msefi.com forum.
I got a 12a tho, and had to fab stuff. You are doing this to a SE? There is more support for those conversions. You may also want to look at the msefi.com forum.
12a? What? Please explain what your running.
And yes, mine is the gsl-se but using the s4 complete intake system. If I can get the mega squirt to run 4 injectors I wonder what would happen if I add stock s4 injectors to the intake runners like on the stock s4 motors? on top of my 720's in the block.
06-05-05, 10:22 PM
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Chad Carson
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Originally Posted by NewRXr
One of my aquaintences local and on here is running it on his SE. He says he loves it, works great and yeah he ditched the AFM.
Vernon
Vernon
Can you tell him to get on here or pm me.
I would like to know what he is doing/running and how easy it was.
I really want to get rid of the AFM but I think if I can add two more injectors to run 4 total like the s4's and be able to tune it so I am not running to rich that would be sweet. I think with that I should be able to crack the 200hp mark and maybe 180-190 at the rear.
190 at the rear would be very nice but 200+ at the rear would be better!
06-05-05, 10:27 PM
#7
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I have just decided to use a megasquirt as well, I'm building a six port, 9.7 comp, turbo rotor housings, s4 intake with 650/850 injectors, ooh and a turbo.
The megasquirt can operate 4 injectors.
The megasquirt can operate 4 injectors.
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06-05-05, 10:29 PM
#8
It will run up to 16(or 20) injectors depending on your app. You can run dual tables and have each pair set up differently on the rotory. Go to the megasquirt forum and start reading you will get every answer you need. Even ones you don't know you have yet! I'm setting up a car right now. I'd wait till July/ Aug to order though, new circuit board is due out then,it has more magic built in.
06-05-05, 10:37 PM
#9
I have a MS, but I am not currently running it. I still need to get it tuned well. It will run, though. I also need to fix my air temp sensor. I have just been so busy with grad school (almost done with the PhD). I hope I'll have some time to get it in a tuned here shortly.
Vernon: Is Tim Schuh the person you are talking about? I know he is running a MS with a 2nd gen intake on a SE. I believe he is just using the primary injectors.
The building and the wiring of the MS is pretty stright forward. All of the needed sensors are already in place since you have an -SE. I chose to add some connectors and use the stock wiring harness. This way I can easily switch between the stock ECU and the MS. This is nice in case something happend to the MS or something. It is nice to have a backup. You can definitely run just the primary injectors. If I can get mine setup, I'd be happy to share my settings with you. I am seriously considering getting a s4 or s5 intake, though. Should get some more power and there are several people running the MS on 2nd gen cars. That way I could get a good starting map.
Edit: Here is some info. This is an old dyno plot, I believe.
http://www.wankel.net/registry/1st/tschuh.html
If you want to run 4 injectors you'll need to run resistors to make your SE injectors to behave like high impedance injectors. The MS code to run staged injection only supports high impedance injectors as far as I know. If you do the stagged injection, I'd put the SE injectors in the secondaries and use the S4/S5 injectors in the primaries. You would have better control of fuel during idle and have all the fuel that you would need up top.
I'll see if I can dig up some more info for you. I know Tim Schuh has a dyno plot, pics and other info online. I'll see if I can find it all again. He has pretty much the same setup as you, I think.
Kent
Edit 2: here is the rest of Tim's info I was looking for.
MS vs. stock ECU (11.5 hp gain)
HP and TQ with MS (wired open 5/6 ports):
Pics of his setup:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/car...megasquirt.html
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/tims_manifold.html
What ports are you running? Tim was getting about 150 to the wheels with the MS, exhaust, and 2nd gen intake on stock ports.
Vernon: Is Tim Schuh the person you are talking about? I know he is running a MS with a 2nd gen intake on a SE. I believe he is just using the primary injectors.
The building and the wiring of the MS is pretty stright forward. All of the needed sensors are already in place since you have an -SE. I chose to add some connectors and use the stock wiring harness. This way I can easily switch between the stock ECU and the MS. This is nice in case something happend to the MS or something. It is nice to have a backup. You can definitely run just the primary injectors. If I can get mine setup, I'd be happy to share my settings with you. I am seriously considering getting a s4 or s5 intake, though. Should get some more power and there are several people running the MS on 2nd gen cars. That way I could get a good starting map.
Edit: Here is some info. This is an old dyno plot, I believe.
http://www.wankel.net/registry/1st/tschuh.html
If you want to run 4 injectors you'll need to run resistors to make your SE injectors to behave like high impedance injectors. The MS code to run staged injection only supports high impedance injectors as far as I know. If you do the stagged injection, I'd put the SE injectors in the secondaries and use the S4/S5 injectors in the primaries. You would have better control of fuel during idle and have all the fuel that you would need up top.
I'll see if I can dig up some more info for you. I know Tim Schuh has a dyno plot, pics and other info online. I'll see if I can find it all again. He has pretty much the same setup as you, I think.
Kent
Edit 2: here is the rest of Tim's info I was looking for.
MS vs. stock ECU (11.5 hp gain)
HP and TQ with MS (wired open 5/6 ports):
Pics of his setup:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/car...megasquirt.html
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/tims_manifold.html
What ports are you running? Tim was getting about 150 to the wheels with the MS, exhaust, and 2nd gen intake on stock ports.
Last edited by gsl-se addict; 06-05-05 at 10:50 PM.
06-05-05, 11:31 PM
#11
Chad Carson
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Kent, thanks for the info. almost makes me want to jump into it now.
I am afraid that my SE will be down longer than needed. I heard of them selling the kits pre built. Maybe that would be easier and better.
I do like the plug and play idea you have useing the harness. That would be awesome.
As for the injectors, I was thinking swapping them would be better too.
Thanks
Chad
I am afraid that my SE will be down longer than needed. I heard of them selling the kits pre built. Maybe that would be easier and better.
I do like the plug and play idea you have useing the harness. That would be awesome.
As for the injectors, I was thinking swapping them would be better too.
Thanks
Chad
06-05-05, 11:46 PM
#12
Yes, they have prebuilt kits, but building the thing is half the fun. It is straight forward. The board is marked and the directions are pretty good. Just take you time and all will be well. If you need any help with it, there are several of us around that could lend a hand.
The car doesn't have to be down for long at all. You can build the circuit and bench test/get familiar with the software with the car running on the stock ECU. You can then do like I am doing and take advantage of the stock wiring. First take the needed stock wires and add a connector to both the engine side and the stock ECU side. I do one wire at a time. That way if I have to quit in the middle of it but need to use the car, I just plug the connector together and run of the stock ECU. You can then make the harness to go from the MS to the stock wiring. This way you can switch between the two systems easily and not feel rushed to get done. You can leave the AFM and everything in place until you are done tuning (so you can still use stock ECU if needed). I did my harness like this one (molex connectors from RadioShack).
http://www.ub3rgeek.net/?page=~mernisse/RX-7/MS/ms.html
I really want to get mine in and tuned properly. Just need to find the time. It will be nice to eliminate the AFM and the MS has flood control (kill fuel to the injectors if you hold down the accelerator while cranking) very helpful on a rotary.
Kent
The car doesn't have to be down for long at all. You can build the circuit and bench test/get familiar with the software with the car running on the stock ECU. You can then do like I am doing and take advantage of the stock wiring. First take the needed stock wires and add a connector to both the engine side and the stock ECU side. I do one wire at a time. That way if I have to quit in the middle of it but need to use the car, I just plug the connector together and run of the stock ECU. You can then make the harness to go from the MS to the stock wiring. This way you can switch between the two systems easily and not feel rushed to get done. You can leave the AFM and everything in place until you are done tuning (so you can still use stock ECU if needed). I did my harness like this one (molex connectors from RadioShack).
http://www.ub3rgeek.net/?page=~mernisse/RX-7/MS/ms.html
I really want to get mine in and tuned properly. Just need to find the time. It will be nice to eliminate the AFM and the MS has flood control (kill fuel to the injectors if you hold down the accelerator while cranking) very helpful on a rotary.
Kent
06-06-05, 02:40 PM
#14
I'm the guy Vernon knows that has Megasquirt on a GSL-SE. I completely ditched the factory ecu, wiring harness, afm, rats nest, etc. I made an entirely new wiring harness since I wanted to make it look nicer and I didn't like the way the factory runs the harness into the engine bay. I wanted a cleaner look. My harness comes in from the transmission tunnel up behind and underneath the intake manifold. You see very few wires. I like it this way.
I am using an S5 intake manifold and have adapted a Ford TPS onto the Mazda throttlebody. I am using 4 injectors rather than the stock 2. I have the nonturbo 2nd gen 460's as the primaries and the Turbo II 2nd gen 550's as secondaries. I use the stock 2nd gen fuel rails. I am using the Mazda bypass air control valve as my fast idle. I streetported the stock GSL-SE engine and have kept the 6 port system working. I also now have a working VDI sysem based on the manifold I am using. Currently I am still using the stock distributer by I have it running MSD direct fire with 2nd gen leading coils. The upgrade plan which I'll get around to someday is to run a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and then use 4 2nd gen trailing coils. Those coils are pretty impressive in their output. When I get time I work on that. I have too many other projects right now.
You do not have to run 4 high impedance injectors but I recommend it. The Megasquirt can run low imp. injectors but since they are less resistance, the ecu gets hotter and there have been cases of parts failures from low impedance injectors. None of these have been with rotaries though. I would add a resistor in the circuit to make them appear as higher imp. if you intend to run them. I am also runn staged injection. This is very simple and I love it. It allows me to only use 2 injectors at idle and lower rpms but then add in the other 2 later on wherever I want them. Kind of like the 2nd and 3rd gens but with more control. I bring mine online at 4000 rpm but you can change this to wherever you need it. You also have the option of brining them online based on manifold pressure rather than rpm. It's your choice. I like rpm.
Megasquirt was very easy to build. Get a nice small soldering iron and take your time. The instructions can be downloaded from the MS website and they are very clear. When you get the kit, all of the parts are separated and labeled according to what they are and where they go. If the instructions tell you to install resistor F10 on the board, you look for the bag that has F10 on it, take that resistor out and then find the spot on the board labeled F10. Simple. It's like painting by numbers but instead you are building an ecu by numbers. The hardest part in the whole thing is getting the software setup right. I am an absolute moron when it comes to computers and I figured it out so it isn't that bad.
The wiring harness took a little time since I am very **** about wiring. I want to do it once and only once. I went to a car stereo shop and got about 20 ft of every different color remote turn on wire they had. Luckily I used to work in that business so I got all of my wires for free from a friend who still works there. I carefully laid out which wires I wanted to go where and wrote down the colors. If you can help it, do not repeat any colors for different sensors. My fuel injector wires are red and blue for the primaries and red and green for the secondaries. I know which is which just by color. The red wire is common to all of the injectors so those could stay that way. My bypass air control valve uses orange and yellow wires. My air intake temperature sensor uses green and blue wires. All of these wires were cut to length based on where they were going to go and all of the pairs were individually loomed all the way back to the ecu so I wouldn't have to sort them all out in the engine bay. The loom I used is much nicer than standard split loom. It looks like chinese finger cuffs and is what is used in the aviation and space industries. I got mine at Fry's. It's great stuff and looks really clean. I bought all new fuel injector plugs from Napa auto parts. You get the idea of how I did it. This all may sound very complicated but it was alot of fun. You don't HAVE to do it like I did. You can just wire up a simple harness and tap into the wiring on the floor by the stock ecu. I just like mine neater.
I think everyone should own a Megasquirt. They are by no means difficult to build or tune and the online support is great. I can also answer most any questions anyone has. If I don't know it, I know who does. The first time I ever tried to start my car up, keep in mind no one gave me any maps to use, it started! From there it is just learning how to adjust the map while the car is running which is very easy. You are always going to be lean at first so start richening it up until it runs good. You will need to keep your foot in it and try your hardest to hold it at about 2000 rpm at first. Then as you get the map richened up to that point, you'll find that you can slowly bring the rpm's down until you've got it idling. Then you get to have fun trying to drive while it bucks wildly not wanting to move. Richen it up in those spots until that problem goes away and then move up the rpm range. It is alot of trial and error but is actually alot of fun. It's doesn't take long to figure out what is going on either. After the whole experience you will be pretty knowledgable as to how fuel injection works. It's good stuff. I don't remember carbs being near this fun.
I am using an S5 intake manifold and have adapted a Ford TPS onto the Mazda throttlebody. I am using 4 injectors rather than the stock 2. I have the nonturbo 2nd gen 460's as the primaries and the Turbo II 2nd gen 550's as secondaries. I use the stock 2nd gen fuel rails. I am using the Mazda bypass air control valve as my fast idle. I streetported the stock GSL-SE engine and have kept the 6 port system working. I also now have a working VDI sysem based on the manifold I am using. Currently I am still using the stock distributer by I have it running MSD direct fire with 2nd gen leading coils. The upgrade plan which I'll get around to someday is to run a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and then use 4 2nd gen trailing coils. Those coils are pretty impressive in their output. When I get time I work on that. I have too many other projects right now.
You do not have to run 4 high impedance injectors but I recommend it. The Megasquirt can run low imp. injectors but since they are less resistance, the ecu gets hotter and there have been cases of parts failures from low impedance injectors. None of these have been with rotaries though. I would add a resistor in the circuit to make them appear as higher imp. if you intend to run them. I am also runn staged injection. This is very simple and I love it. It allows me to only use 2 injectors at idle and lower rpms but then add in the other 2 later on wherever I want them. Kind of like the 2nd and 3rd gens but with more control. I bring mine online at 4000 rpm but you can change this to wherever you need it. You also have the option of brining them online based on manifold pressure rather than rpm. It's your choice. I like rpm.
Megasquirt was very easy to build. Get a nice small soldering iron and take your time. The instructions can be downloaded from the MS website and they are very clear. When you get the kit, all of the parts are separated and labeled according to what they are and where they go. If the instructions tell you to install resistor F10 on the board, you look for the bag that has F10 on it, take that resistor out and then find the spot on the board labeled F10. Simple. It's like painting by numbers but instead you are building an ecu by numbers. The hardest part in the whole thing is getting the software setup right. I am an absolute moron when it comes to computers and I figured it out so it isn't that bad.
The wiring harness took a little time since I am very **** about wiring. I want to do it once and only once. I went to a car stereo shop and got about 20 ft of every different color remote turn on wire they had. Luckily I used to work in that business so I got all of my wires for free from a friend who still works there. I carefully laid out which wires I wanted to go where and wrote down the colors. If you can help it, do not repeat any colors for different sensors. My fuel injector wires are red and blue for the primaries and red and green for the secondaries. I know which is which just by color. The red wire is common to all of the injectors so those could stay that way. My bypass air control valve uses orange and yellow wires. My air intake temperature sensor uses green and blue wires. All of these wires were cut to length based on where they were going to go and all of the pairs were individually loomed all the way back to the ecu so I wouldn't have to sort them all out in the engine bay. The loom I used is much nicer than standard split loom. It looks like chinese finger cuffs and is what is used in the aviation and space industries. I got mine at Fry's. It's great stuff and looks really clean. I bought all new fuel injector plugs from Napa auto parts. You get the idea of how I did it. This all may sound very complicated but it was alot of fun. You don't HAVE to do it like I did. You can just wire up a simple harness and tap into the wiring on the floor by the stock ecu. I just like mine neater.
I think everyone should own a Megasquirt. They are by no means difficult to build or tune and the online support is great. I can also answer most any questions anyone has. If I don't know it, I know who does. The first time I ever tried to start my car up, keep in mind no one gave me any maps to use, it started! From there it is just learning how to adjust the map while the car is running which is very easy. You are always going to be lean at first so start richening it up until it runs good. You will need to keep your foot in it and try your hardest to hold it at about 2000 rpm at first. Then as you get the map richened up to that point, you'll find that you can slowly bring the rpm's down until you've got it idling. Then you get to have fun trying to drive while it bucks wildly not wanting to move. Richen it up in those spots until that problem goes away and then move up the rpm range. It is alot of trial and error but is actually alot of fun. It's doesn't take long to figure out what is going on either. After the whole experience you will be pretty knowledgable as to how fuel injection works. It's good stuff. I don't remember carbs being near this fun.
06-06-05, 09:41 PM
#15
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ummm wow... could you pm me your email addy rotorygod... i wanna add you to msn... cuz i'm about to add megasquirt to my car... a 85 gslse so i may need some help and such... so could you either pm me your email addy or your number so i could call or something to talk to you about it... that would be awesome bud... thanks alot for any help you may be able to give me
Cory
Cory
06-06-05, 11:39 PM
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Another support story for Megasquirt here! I love it.. I just ended up damaging my ECU somehow on thursday, and I haven't had time to diagnose it yet, but it was my own dumb fault (reversed the voltage regulator on the 3rd gen alternator I installed). The cool part? Because I built it myself, i'll be able to diagnose and replace exact components, and it most likely won't cost more than 20 bucks to repair 
I also went the custom wiring harness route, but it probably would have been easier to use stock wiring. The reason i went custom is because my problem was caused by stock wiring, and there was no way I was going through all that effort of changing and keeping the slow, stock ecu.
I can tell you that you defiantly want to build it yourself. It will make you much more proficient with electronics terms and diagnostics, even though assembly was EXTREMELY well documented and clear.
Another thing to note: If you use the flyback board and relay board (both are optional, probably adds about 50 bucks total to the cost of the ECU) like I did, then you don't have to worry about the impedance of the injectors, the flyback board can deal with it. The relay board will maek wiring the MS up a breeze.
As for my install, it turned over the first time.. I ended up shutting the car off because I couldn't believe it was running.. Tuning is a lot of fun, and there's still a lot to do (I only have about 150 miles on mine). As far as the injectors go, the new code even has the ability to "stage" the injectors, so only the primaries are on below XXXX RPM, so just like the stock 2nd gen setup, my secondary injectors kick on @ 3800.
Either way, I whole heartedly recommend MS.. I love it
I also went the custom wiring harness route, but it probably would have been easier to use stock wiring. The reason i went custom is because my problem was caused by stock wiring, and there was no way I was going through all that effort of changing and keeping the slow, stock ecu.
I can tell you that you defiantly want to build it yourself. It will make you much more proficient with electronics terms and diagnostics, even though assembly was EXTREMELY well documented and clear.
Another thing to note: If you use the flyback board and relay board (both are optional, probably adds about 50 bucks total to the cost of the ECU) like I did, then you don't have to worry about the impedance of the injectors, the flyback board can deal with it. The relay board will maek wiring the MS up a breeze.
As for my install, it turned over the first time.. I ended up shutting the car off because I couldn't believe it was running.. Tuning is a lot of fun, and there's still a lot to do (I only have about 150 miles on mine). As far as the injectors go, the new code even has the ability to "stage" the injectors, so only the primaries are on below XXXX RPM, so just like the stock 2nd gen setup, my secondary injectors kick on @ 3800.
Either way, I whole heartedly recommend MS.. I love it
06-07-05, 09:18 AM
#17
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Hey I am doing a s5 TII swap into my GSL-SE here pretty soon. I just need to locate the JDM engine and I am on my way. I went to a shop and was quoted 1200 for the installation(just did not want to mess with the problems that could occur). At that price I was seriously considering building the project myself. From your stories I think that I am going to go that way.
There is still a lot of reading to do before I try and complete this task.
GSL-SE Addict since you have installed this ECU into an SE if in the future I had some technical problems would you be willing to help me out? Me an Kettleman are going to try and conquer the task and should be able to muscle through it but there is always the possibility that something could go wrong.
Also does the MS come with installation instructions?
There is still a lot of reading to do before I try and complete this task.
GSL-SE Addict since you have installed this ECU into an SE if in the future I had some technical problems would you be willing to help me out? Me an Kettleman are going to try and conquer the task and should be able to muscle through it but there is always the possibility that something could go wrong.
Also does the MS come with installation instructions?
06-07-05, 12:23 PM
#19
Originally Posted by z-beater
Hey I am doing a s5 TII swap into my GSL-SE here pretty soon. I just need to locate the JDM engine and I am on my way. I went to a shop and was quoted 1200 for the installation(just did not want to mess with the problems that could occur). At that price I was seriously considering building the project myself. From your stories I think that I am going to go that way.
There is still a lot of reading to do before I try and complete this task.
GSL-SE Addict since you have installed this ECU into an SE if in the future I had some technical problems would you be willing to help me out? Me an Kettleman are going to try and conquer the task and should be able to muscle through it but there is always the possibility that something could go wrong.
Also does the MS come with installation instructions?
There is still a lot of reading to do before I try and complete this task.
GSL-SE Addict since you have installed this ECU into an SE if in the future I had some technical problems would you be willing to help me out? Me an Kettleman are going to try and conquer the task and should be able to muscle through it but there is always the possibility that something could go wrong.
Also does the MS come with installation instructions?
evil_motors: Yes, you could put this in a 12A. You would need fuel rail, TB, injectors, sensors, EFI fuel pump, etc. I believe Mike Roberts (on here and on the MSEFI forum) has a MS 12A.
06-07-05, 12:58 PM
#20
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Yes, you can quite successfully MS a 12A - see http://smrmicro.com/v-web/gallery/ . The pics are a little dated, improvements have been made, but this should give you an idea of what a 167RWHP MS fuel & ignition controlled 12A looks like. This install has over 20000 miles on it as a daily driver.
-Mike Robert
-Mike Robert
06-07-05, 02:54 PM
#21
Chad Carson
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
I'm the guy Vernon knows that has Megasquirt on a GSL-SE. I completely ditched the factory ecu, wiring harness, afm, rats nest, etc. I made an entirely new wiring harness since I wanted to make it look nicer and I didn't like the way the factory runs the harness into the engine bay. I wanted a cleaner look. My harness comes in from the transmission tunnel up behind and underneath the intake manifold. You see very few wires. I like it this way.
I am using an S5 intake manifold and have adapted a Ford TPS onto the Mazda throttlebody. I am using 4 injectors rather than the stock 2. I have the nonturbo 2nd gen 460's as the primaries and the Turbo II 2nd gen 550's as secondaries. I use the stock 2nd gen fuel rails. I am using the Mazda bypass air control valve as my fast idle. I streetported the stock GSL-SE engine and have kept the 6 port system working. I also now have a working VDI sysem based on the manifold I am using. Currently I am still using the stock distributer by I have it running MSD direct fire with 2nd gen leading coils. The upgrade plan which I'll get around to someday is to run a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and then use 4 2nd gen trailing coils. Those coils are pretty impressive in their output. When I get time I work on that. I have too many other projects right now.
You do not have to run 4 high impedance injectors but I recommend it. The Megasquirt can run low imp. injectors but since they are less resistance, the ecu gets hotter and there have been cases of parts failures from low impedance injectors. None of these have been with rotaries though. I would add a resistor in the circuit to make them appear as higher imp. if you intend to run them. I am also runn staged injection. This is very simple and I love it. It allows me to only use 2 injectors at idle and lower rpms but then add in the other 2 later on wherever I want them. Kind of like the 2nd and 3rd gens but with more control. I bring mine online at 4000 rpm but you can change this to wherever you need it. You also have the option of brining them online based on manifold pressure rather than rpm. It's your choice. I like rpm.
Megasquirt was very easy to build. Get a nice small soldering iron and take your time. The instructions can be downloaded from the MS website and they are very clear. When you get the kit, all of the parts are separated and labeled according to what they are and where they go. If the instructions tell you to install resistor F10 on the board, you look for the bag that has F10 on it, take that resistor out and then find the spot on the board labeled F10. Simple. It's like painting by numbers but instead you are building an ecu by numbers. The hardest part in the whole thing is getting the software setup right. I am an absolute moron when it comes to computers and I figured it out so it isn't that bad.
The wiring harness took a little time since I am very **** about wiring. I want to do it once and only once. I went to a car stereo shop and got about 20 ft of every different color remote turn on wire they had. Luckily I used to work in that business so I got all of my wires for free from a friend who still works there. I carefully laid out which wires I wanted to go where and wrote down the colors. If you can help it, do not repeat any colors for different sensors. My fuel injector wires are red and blue for the primaries and red and green for the secondaries. I know which is which just by color. The red wire is common to all of the injectors so those could stay that way. My bypass air control valve uses orange and yellow wires. My air intake temperature sensor uses green and blue wires. All of these wires were cut to length based on where they were going to go and all of the pairs were individually loomed all the way back to the ecu so I wouldn't have to sort them all out in the engine bay. The loom I used is much nicer than standard split loom. It looks like chinese finger cuffs and is what is used in the aviation and space industries. I got mine at Fry's. It's great stuff and looks really clean. I bought all new fuel injector plugs from Napa auto parts. You get the idea of how I did it. This all may sound very complicated but it was alot of fun. You don't HAVE to do it like I did. You can just wire up a simple harness and tap into the wiring on the floor by the stock ecu. I just like mine neater.
I think everyone should own a Megasquirt. They are by no means difficult to build or tune and the online support is great. I can also answer most any questions anyone has. If I don't know it, I know who does. The first time I ever tried to start my car up, keep in mind no one gave me any maps to use, it started! From there it is just learning how to adjust the map while the car is running which is very easy. You are always going to be lean at first so start richening it up until it runs good. You will need to keep your foot in it and try your hardest to hold it at about 2000 rpm at first. Then as you get the map richened up to that point, you'll find that you can slowly bring the rpm's down until you've got it idling. Then you get to have fun trying to drive while it bucks wildly not wanting to move. Richen it up in those spots until that problem goes away and then move up the rpm range. It is alot of trial and error but is actually alot of fun. It's doesn't take long to figure out what is going on either. After the whole experience you will be pretty knowledgable as to how fuel injection works. It's good stuff. I don't remember carbs being near this fun.
I am using an S5 intake manifold and have adapted a Ford TPS onto the Mazda throttlebody. I am using 4 injectors rather than the stock 2. I have the nonturbo 2nd gen 460's as the primaries and the Turbo II 2nd gen 550's as secondaries. I use the stock 2nd gen fuel rails. I am using the Mazda bypass air control valve as my fast idle. I streetported the stock GSL-SE engine and have kept the 6 port system working. I also now have a working VDI sysem based on the manifold I am using. Currently I am still using the stock distributer by I have it running MSD direct fire with 2nd gen leading coils. The upgrade plan which I'll get around to someday is to run a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and then use 4 2nd gen trailing coils. Those coils are pretty impressive in their output. When I get time I work on that. I have too many other projects right now.
You do not have to run 4 high impedance injectors but I recommend it. The Megasquirt can run low imp. injectors but since they are less resistance, the ecu gets hotter and there have been cases of parts failures from low impedance injectors. None of these have been with rotaries though. I would add a resistor in the circuit to make them appear as higher imp. if you intend to run them. I am also runn staged injection. This is very simple and I love it. It allows me to only use 2 injectors at idle and lower rpms but then add in the other 2 later on wherever I want them. Kind of like the 2nd and 3rd gens but with more control. I bring mine online at 4000 rpm but you can change this to wherever you need it. You also have the option of brining them online based on manifold pressure rather than rpm. It's your choice. I like rpm.
Megasquirt was very easy to build. Get a nice small soldering iron and take your time. The instructions can be downloaded from the MS website and they are very clear. When you get the kit, all of the parts are separated and labeled according to what they are and where they go. If the instructions tell you to install resistor F10 on the board, you look for the bag that has F10 on it, take that resistor out and then find the spot on the board labeled F10. Simple. It's like painting by numbers but instead you are building an ecu by numbers. The hardest part in the whole thing is getting the software setup right. I am an absolute moron when it comes to computers and I figured it out so it isn't that bad.
The wiring harness took a little time since I am very **** about wiring. I want to do it once and only once. I went to a car stereo shop and got about 20 ft of every different color remote turn on wire they had. Luckily I used to work in that business so I got all of my wires for free from a friend who still works there. I carefully laid out which wires I wanted to go where and wrote down the colors. If you can help it, do not repeat any colors for different sensors. My fuel injector wires are red and blue for the primaries and red and green for the secondaries. I know which is which just by color. The red wire is common to all of the injectors so those could stay that way. My bypass air control valve uses orange and yellow wires. My air intake temperature sensor uses green and blue wires. All of these wires were cut to length based on where they were going to go and all of the pairs were individually loomed all the way back to the ecu so I wouldn't have to sort them all out in the engine bay. The loom I used is much nicer than standard split loom. It looks like chinese finger cuffs and is what is used in the aviation and space industries. I got mine at Fry's. It's great stuff and looks really clean. I bought all new fuel injector plugs from Napa auto parts. You get the idea of how I did it. This all may sound very complicated but it was alot of fun. You don't HAVE to do it like I did. You can just wire up a simple harness and tap into the wiring on the floor by the stock ecu. I just like mine neater.
I think everyone should own a Megasquirt. They are by no means difficult to build or tune and the online support is great. I can also answer most any questions anyone has. If I don't know it, I know who does. The first time I ever tried to start my car up, keep in mind no one gave me any maps to use, it started! From there it is just learning how to adjust the map while the car is running which is very easy. You are always going to be lean at first so start richening it up until it runs good. You will need to keep your foot in it and try your hardest to hold it at about 2000 rpm at first. Then as you get the map richened up to that point, you'll find that you can slowly bring the rpm's down until you've got it idling. Then you get to have fun trying to drive while it bucks wildly not wanting to move. Richen it up in those spots until that problem goes away and then move up the rpm range. It is alot of trial and error but is actually alot of fun. It's doesn't take long to figure out what is going on either. After the whole experience you will be pretty knowledgable as to how fuel injection works. It's good stuff. I don't remember carbs being near this fun.
Rotarygod,
Thanks for the motivation speech. I think I might go this way now. I have an electronics degree so building it should be fun, and take me back 10 years.
I wonder if you can crack the 200rwhp mark and stay all motor with a 13b.
Chad
06-07-05, 03:10 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Fire85GSLSE
Rotarygod,
Thanks for the motivation speech. I think I might go this way now. I have an electronics degree so building it should be fun, and take me back 10 years.
I wonder if you can crack the 200rwhp mark and stay all motor with a 13b.
Chad
Thanks for the motivation speech. I think I might go this way now. I have an electronics degree so building it should be fun, and take me back 10 years.
I wonder if you can crack the 200rwhp mark and stay all motor with a 13b.
Chad
I don't have an electronics degree by any means, and I found it to be a lot of fun to assemble I'm trying to crack that 200 RWHP mark on my 7, it would be stinkin' awesome to do it..
this unit is picking up a LOT of steam lately, that's really cool. Its a great ECU, with an awesome community working on it.
06-07-05, 03:50 PM
#24
Chad Carson
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Well, I would love to crack 200rwhp. If the Megasquirt will help , well then megasquirt it is! Just can't have the car down as I use it as my daily.
Here is my current setup,
GSL-SE motor rebuilt using;
s4 rotors
s4 housings (mild streeport)
S4 UIM, LIM, TB, and dynamic chamber
710cc injectors (rebuild rc eng.)
TB mod
Rastnest removed, no emissions except the sticker under the hood
Full racing beat streetport exhaust
Light weight flywheel (s4 counterweight ofcourse)
Centerforce clutch
K&N style cone air filter
Dual Pulley on alt
Stock ECU
Stock AFM (My major restriction)
2- msd blaster coils
Kept AC and PS
Electric Fan (not installed yet)
Radiator cleaned/dipped and like new
160 degree thermostat (Car never goes over 1/4 on the temp gauge)
and a few stickers good for about an extra 10hp! Ha ha.
I figured my 7 should be around 170-180 but I was told I should have more like 190hp
Pics of my motor are in my avatar garage.
Anyone else close to this setup already running MS? Would like to know about how much extra hp I could gain buy removing the afm.
Then maybe adding some 550's to my motor but allowing MS to turn them on at 4k.
Also I like the idea of making a harness for the MS and using it in line with the factory ECU. That way I could unplug it and still drive the car if needed.
Here is my current setup,
GSL-SE motor rebuilt using;
s4 rotors
s4 housings (mild streeport)
S4 UIM, LIM, TB, and dynamic chamber
710cc injectors (rebuild rc eng.)
TB mod
Rastnest removed, no emissions except the sticker under the hood
Full racing beat streetport exhaust
Light weight flywheel (s4 counterweight ofcourse)
Centerforce clutch
K&N style cone air filter
Dual Pulley on alt
Stock ECU
Stock AFM (My major restriction)
2- msd blaster coils
Kept AC and PS
Electric Fan (not installed yet)
Radiator cleaned/dipped and like new
160 degree thermostat (Car never goes over 1/4 on the temp gauge)
and a few stickers good for about an extra 10hp! Ha ha.
I figured my 7 should be around 170-180 but I was told I should have more like 190hp
Pics of my motor are in my avatar garage.
Anyone else close to this setup already running MS? Would like to know about how much extra hp I could gain buy removing the afm.
Then maybe adding some 550's to my motor but allowing MS to turn them on at 4k.
Also I like the idea of making a harness for the MS and using it in line with the factory ECU. That way I could unplug it and still drive the car if needed.
06-07-05, 04:35 PM
#25
Sounds like a great setup. I'll be interested in what power you make. I would like to go with a similar setup only with the SE engine (maybe S5 rotating assembly) and an S5 intake. It would be pretty easy to use the MS to accuate the VDI and the 5/6 ports. 200 at the wheels would be nice and with the MS and good tuning it will still be very reliable and get decent gas mileage as well.
I will probably eventually do like rotarygod and just have a harness for the MS and remove the stock stuff. I would probably to that down the road, though. Maybe after getting the S5 intake and maybe do some porting. I want to keep the stock ECU for know so that I can switch back and forth. Don't have to worry about getting stuck somewhere or be pressured to get the car tuned within a short time period so that it can be used.
z-beater: I am studying nuclear engineering. That is the picture of the core of the research reactor in our department here at OSU in my avatar. It'll be nice to get it finished up. I'll be glad to help you out where I can.
Kent
I will probably eventually do like rotarygod and just have a harness for the MS and remove the stock stuff. I would probably to that down the road, though. Maybe after getting the S5 intake and maybe do some porting. I want to keep the stock ECU for know so that I can switch back and forth. Don't have to worry about getting stuck somewhere or be pressured to get the car tuned within a short time period so that it can be used.
z-beater: I am studying nuclear engineering. That is the picture of the core of the research reactor in our department here at OSU in my avatar. It'll be nice to get it finished up. I'll be glad to help you out where I can.
Kent
