Lowest 1/4 mile from 12a w/ bolt ons
 

I was dead set on doing a 13b swap into an fb, but after looking into it, id almost rather just mod the 12a, since this isnt gonna be my racecar, just a fun car. What would be the lowest time i could see out of a bolt on 12a, maybe with a port job and carb upgrade, along with other basic ign., intake, and exhaust mods? sub 15 second?14 second? im clueless

i think high 14 low 15 is reasonable with the mods listed??...and im pretty sure if i rememeber correctly from what mazdees performance down in toronto(ontario) was that with street port, exhaust, and new intake w. carb should be around 200hp?

How about a car with all that and a small turbo running about 5 psi?

With bolt-ons I got 14.8 second 1/4s. The set-up was modified Nikki, high performance header and exhaust system, removal of rats' nest, and air pump. Yokohama tires helped tranction.

Once you strip down and port, your times will depend on the extent of porting andpossibly going for a 48IDA carb; realistically in the range 13.8- 14.4 seconds if you are a good driver and a sound transmission.

Was that with the carby I sent you?

Yes, it produced a very good improvement. The car really performed after Mildren Racing tuned it and added a few more bolt-ons to get some 130+rwhp.

What is your latest project?

dont bother draggin' with a 12a, use it for where it will actually do well.... auto-x, minisprints, slalom, roadcourse, etc...

what is wrong with draggin with a 12a? i know of alot of 12a's setting very very good times....what you said doesint make any sense!!! :wallbash:

The car is at the shop getting a full 3inch exhaust as we speak. I'll go down tommorrow, hook the laptop up to the Microtech, calibrate the TPS and it should fire right up... hopefully. Then we can do some light load tuning for the run in period. :)

how well do 12a's hold boost? that was the main reason i was going 13b so i could boost it, but if a 12a will hold 6-8psi safely ill just do that. i have a freshly rebuilt 12a, so could i boost it as is? and what kind of carb would i need to run a boosted application? im a newb with most rotaries, and ever newer at carbed rotaries :wallbash:

if the motor is built right, a 12a can hold alot of boost(40+)if thats what your after..

however in your case for a nice street driven daily driver setup, a 12a streetport with a blowthrugh carb setup with a safe boost level of 10 psi you will make good power.. 280 hp range is an easy goal...

yea i at LEAST want something thatll run in the 13.5-14.0 range, if not faster. Im just after a car thats a weekend car, not a dialy driver but still able to drive on the weekends. So it would be safe to take the freshly stock rebuild 12a and put 10psi on it? will a stock 12a tranny hold power without breaking (or driveshaft)? thanks for the helpful info

and where would i be able to find a turbo mani for a 12a? or wouldi have to build one or something? can someone point me in the right direction please

For that kind of power ... if you don't have an 84/85 ... i would recommend using the drive shaft and rear axle off a car from those years as they have the larger drive shaft and axle. I think that I read before that they're good for about 300whp or more depending on how fast you drop the clutch

it probably wouldnt getp unished too much... maybe the occasional run, but nothing extreme

Little bit of N20 and a fuel pump will get you a long way.... It's also a tenth of the cost of a turbo kit and can be installed in an afternoon with simple hand tools.

Then I'd get a better clutch and some DR tires. Removing unecessary weight will also help alot. Spare tire, jack,, emissions, AC etc.... interior depending on how far U want to take it. A 2000lb care making 180 WHP can run a 13 flat... It's all about power to weight!

With all that said if you have the cash and time turbo are alot cooler IMO.
Good luck...

I have N20 kit laying around. Where can I find the carb plate for an 12a RX7? I'll throw a 50 shot through her.

Just put a 90* fogger nozzle on the top center of the air cleaner assy.

i think hes trying to say to not just concentrate on 1/4 mile time and to make the car good for the purpose its being used for. This is a fun street car that he wants so handling and braking are more important than drag times. I have a japanese dvd of a bunch of different jap cars being raced on a mountain road. A silvia with 500+ hp a sick skyline wiht 600Hp a supra etc and the winner was a fd with stock turbos/boost and only major mods were in suspension and chasis stiffness and it won against the much faster drag cars because the drivability is much higher. Dont get blinded by doing a good 1/4 mile time worry about the whole picture of how the car is going to drive. Braking and handling are always first thing i upgrade. 1/4 mile of 11 secs isnt worth shit on the street unless u can turn and stop good enough to have balance.

here you go:

-get a racing beat full exhaust, or just the header and make your owm custom exhaust with probably 2.25 or 2.5 inch piping.
-remove all emissions
-get a weber or dellorto 48(side or top draft) with manifold
-get a GSL 3rd member, might as well get the whole rearend(get 84-85 if you can)
-go with the second gen direct fire ignition set up(get a transitor trick if you can)
-get a better clutch and a light flywheel
-get decent tires

thatd be GREAT for a weekend fun car and itll be relatively fast as well.

a friend of mine had a weber 48 IDF, RB exhaust, no emissions, RB clutch and PP, RB steel flywheel, and RB plug wires. i ran this car at the track and hit a 15.3. the car was DEFINATELY capable of faster. im guessing i could of got a 14.7 or so. the car had an open differential, CRAAPPY tires, and was WWWAAAYYY of track with tuning.

with this set up your car will be decently quick, love the curves(id say definately do some suspension mods also), and be easily streetable and very reliable.

for the suspension you could just get tokico HP and RB springs and youd be fine. both of with are relatively cheap when compared to other options.


thats just my 2 cents

you dont want to much horsepower if your a daily driver.


Gas and lemme say tires would be expensive.

quote"dammit why do my tires lose traction everytime it rains"
or "why did that friken tires go out it was brand new!!! I just bought it last friday"

12A overlape,escape,puente alta, 75 shot of NOS, holley 600, Racing beat exhaust, bronz clutch,and a mallory fuel pump....12.7@1/4= the reason I bought the car

well this sint a daily driver, and itll be used mainly for a weekend cruiser, and im more worried about 1/4 mile times than auto-x, so im thinking im gonna turbo it now, but what would be a good carb to use for a forced induction setup? im not looking for a super fast drag car, just something i can kick the shit out of my old car with (14.5-14.8 1/4 mile time) i at least want to see the 13's and somewhere over 280hp. thanks

ps, doesnt have to be gas freindly or user freindly, just fast :icon_tup: :)

I ran a 14.2 on stock rebuild, gutted cat no muffler, no passenger seat, no emissions, AC unhooked, RB intake and holley carb, holley blue pump and perellis in the back.

Adding a turbo to a Nikki carb is possible but is only a reasonable performer. My preference would be Weber as it is easier to tune.

I suggest looking at www.rotaryshack.com for ideas on using a blow through system as several forum members have successfully gone down that track. With a target of 280hp at the flywheel you really should refresh the engine with new springs and seals.

With a 12AT producing an estimate 260 fwhp I get high 12 second passes.