LED's, brakes, turn signals and Hazard Flasher
02-01-13, 10:58 AM
#1
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
LED's, brakes, turn signals and Hazard Flasher
We were discussing in the "What did you do to your FB today" thread about LED bulbs and load resistors and I thought it might be better to not hijack that thread.
I've replaced my bulbs with LED's on my EV RX-7 (except for the rear turn signals). One issue with doing this is that for the turn signals you need to add a load resistor for each bulb between the ground and the turn signal line or the turn signal flasher fires very fast. Likewise for the brakes there will be an indication on the dashboard warning lights that a bulb is out.
There is some objection to the addition of the load resistors although the effect on the car is not going to be noticable because the load resistor only has an effect when the bulb is turned on. In the case of the turn signals this would be about 50 watts (0.07 HP) when the bulb is on due to the load resistor or original bulb. The brakes are twice this much but only when the brakes are depressed so who cares if you use a little motor power when you have the brakes lights on. You can purchase electronic flashers that don't care about the load from the bulb being different. I suppose you could just remove the warning indicator in the dash that signals the bulb is out for the brakes. After all you have bulbs with an estimated lifespan of 30000 on hours and you have four of them. So they essentially have an unlimited lifespan when used in a car and should never fail.
There are LED bulbs that are newer than the ones I got that have the load resistors built in. The one company I was looking at calls these CAN bulbs because they satisfy the load so you don't get any CAN messages. If these have the same load profile then they would be just pop in replacements for most people wanting the advantages of LED's without wanting to add the load resistors. It is certainly a cleaner installation. I may order a couple of these and try them on my other car.
So this leaves just the hazard flashers. In both my cars this doesn't work anymore. There is a sort of anemic buzzing from under the dash. It seems like it must be a common problem since both of my cars do it and did so even before I changed to LED's on the one car. After I post this I will do a forum search and see what is out there relating to this.
If there is interest I would post a list of part numbers I used for each location.
I've replaced my bulbs with LED's on my EV RX-7 (except for the rear turn signals). One issue with doing this is that for the turn signals you need to add a load resistor for each bulb between the ground and the turn signal line or the turn signal flasher fires very fast. Likewise for the brakes there will be an indication on the dashboard warning lights that a bulb is out.
There is some objection to the addition of the load resistors although the effect on the car is not going to be noticable because the load resistor only has an effect when the bulb is turned on. In the case of the turn signals this would be about 50 watts (0.07 HP) when the bulb is on due to the load resistor or original bulb. The brakes are twice this much but only when the brakes are depressed so who cares if you use a little motor power when you have the brakes lights on. You can purchase electronic flashers that don't care about the load from the bulb being different. I suppose you could just remove the warning indicator in the dash that signals the bulb is out for the brakes. After all you have bulbs with an estimated lifespan of 30000 on hours and you have four of them. So they essentially have an unlimited lifespan when used in a car and should never fail.
There are LED bulbs that are newer than the ones I got that have the load resistors built in. The one company I was looking at calls these CAN bulbs because they satisfy the load so you don't get any CAN messages. If these have the same load profile then they would be just pop in replacements for most people wanting the advantages of LED's without wanting to add the load resistors. It is certainly a cleaner installation. I may order a couple of these and try them on my other car.
So this leaves just the hazard flashers. In both my cars this doesn't work anymore. There is a sort of anemic buzzing from under the dash. It seems like it must be a common problem since both of my cars do it and did so even before I changed to LED's on the one car. After I post this I will do a forum search and see what is out there relating to this.
If there is interest I would post a list of part numbers I used for each location.
02-01-13, 12:01 PM
#2
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Interested in part numbers, cost, and any installation issues that may popup.
Can a different (more modern flasher) solve the same issue without using the resistors?
I saw an RX8 at our C&C last month that had these LEDs that unfolded once inserted into the
bulb position and spread 3 panels out from the center to give more light. Picture how the comm
satellites fold out their solar power panels. Very slick. I can get more info on those parts and
maybe pictures.
It was something like this: http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ed-spider/818/
Can a different (more modern flasher) solve the same issue without using the resistors?
I saw an RX8 at our C&C last month that had these LEDs that unfolded once inserted into the
bulb position and spread 3 panels out from the center to give more light. Picture how the comm
satellites fold out their solar power panels. Very slick. I can get more info on those parts and
maybe pictures.
It was something like this: http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ed-spider/818/
02-02-13, 12:33 AM
#5
As stated, there is an indicator light on the FB letting the operator know that there is a bulb out. This is tripped when the brakes are applied and the 4 bulbs that are the tail/brake lights illuminate their higher wattage filament and one of the bulbs isn't passing current through. Ultimately, when there is a discontinuation of a circuit of one of the bulbs the dummy light on the dash lights up letting you know a brake light is out. I havent tried to take a bulb out and see if this happens when a bulb is missing entirely while the marker lights are on, could be something to try. I wouldn't take that bulb out of the instrument cluster just because it could be an indicator later down the road if something was wrong.
This can be corrected as stated, with a resistor to compensate for the bulb being LED and having less resistance when the current is passed through. The only issue I thought of was where to mount this and if there was a way around it. As you bring up, the turn signal bulbs would need a resistor on each bulb to not trip the quick blinker syndrome. This results in 4 total resistors for turn signals if you do the front and rear lights.
When I did many hours of research on this subject I posted my findings on the forum here. Look for the following threads (I'm on my phone right now):
FB LED marker light conversion
FB LED tail light build
And that is where my info is. There were many good responses and opinions shared and I do plan on building a set of lights in the near future.
Hope something helped, I'll keep checking back in,
Austin
This can be corrected as stated, with a resistor to compensate for the bulb being LED and having less resistance when the current is passed through. The only issue I thought of was where to mount this and if there was a way around it. As you bring up, the turn signal bulbs would need a resistor on each bulb to not trip the quick blinker syndrome. This results in 4 total resistors for turn signals if you do the front and rear lights.
When I did many hours of research on this subject I posted my findings on the forum here. Look for the following threads (I'm on my phone right now):
FB LED marker light conversion
FB LED tail light build
And that is where my info is. There were many good responses and opinions shared and I do plan on building a set of lights in the near future.
Hope something helped, I'll keep checking back in,
Austin
02-02-13, 11:57 AM
#6
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
It is easy to tell. Pull a brake bulb, turn on the ignition and try the brakes. If there is an indicator it will show up on the dash. Pull a turn signal bulb and try the blinkers. Again the ignition has to be on because the signals don't work otherwise. With the blinkers the sensor is usually built into the flasher unit. Takes only a couple of minutes to do this test. I would guess the SA has both features. It was common on cars of that period.
02-02-13, 12:29 PM
#7
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
STOP
LAMP
indicator on an 85 which is just to the right of the E brake on lamp if a brake bulb is removed or burned out.
I tried to take some photos but it will have to wait for after sunset as they all look alike compared to the daylight snow glare.
Trending Topics
02-03-13, 12:21 AM
#9
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
Ok, taking pictures like this is not all that easy. These are the right rear tail light on my 85 GSL. The first one is with just the driving lights turned on and the second is with the brakes on. The left bulb is the LED. It looks a little yellow here but that is just the way the exposure turned out. For the photo enthusiasts this was at 1/60th F 8.0 and ISO80 for both shots so the relative brightness is maintained.
The LED is brighter and fills the reflector better than the original bulbs do. I would say that it is just about the correct brightness while the original bulbs are a little dim.
This particular bulb is from superbrightleds.com and is part number 1157-R45-T Voltage: 12VDC and costs $24.95 unless you have a code of some kind. The R is for red.
There are four of these bulbs in my car now in addition to a pair of amber ones for the front turn signals. The turn signals for the front are 1157-A45-T. The reason for the colored LED's is to match the lens color. This lowers the power cost since LED's normally produce a single color. You could use a white LED but then you are throwing away energy by filtering the rest of the light anyway.
Is it worth $150 in LED's? I am not planning on doing this on the GSL-SE, only my EV conversion. And the only reason there is because at night it reduces the current drawn from the 12v car system by about 7 amps. And even at that I am not certain it is worth it. Others have brought up the fact that they come on sooner than filament bulbs. And this is true. They are also brighter. I guess if it help prevent a rear end it will have been worth it.
The LED is brighter and fills the reflector better than the original bulbs do. I would say that it is just about the correct brightness while the original bulbs are a little dim.
This particular bulb is from superbrightleds.com and is part number 1157-R45-T Voltage: 12VDC and costs $24.95 unless you have a code of some kind. The R is for red.
There are four of these bulbs in my car now in addition to a pair of amber ones for the front turn signals. The turn signals for the front are 1157-A45-T. The reason for the colored LED's is to match the lens color. This lowers the power cost since LED's normally produce a single color. You could use a white LED but then you are throwing away energy by filtering the rest of the light anyway.
Is it worth $150 in LED's? I am not planning on doing this on the GSL-SE, only my EV conversion. And the only reason there is because at night it reduces the current drawn from the 12v car system by about 7 amps. And even at that I am not certain it is worth it. Others have brought up the fact that they come on sooner than filament bulbs. And this is true. They are also brighter. I guess if it help prevent a rear end it will have been worth it.
02-03-13, 12:39 AM
#10
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
I've been using LED's ever since they became almost reasonably priced in the early 70's. At that time you could get the red ones for around a quarter in small quantities. Green and amber were more and not as bright. That would be equivalent to a little under $2 in todays money. It wasn't but a few years ago that the efficiency of LED's exceeded that of filament bulbs on a watt per lumen basis. The really bright LED's are still expensive but are put out several times more light per watt.
If you replace all the filament bulbs in an RX-7 with LED's (including the headlights) you will save around 10amps at night. This is only 120 watts or about 0.2 horsepower after you take into account the losses in the charging system. It isn't going to make you go measurably faster. And the car doesn't really look any different.
02-03-13, 12:17 PM
#11
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
I tried another bulb for the backup lights. I was trying to use a directional bulb but with the lens and housing this just doesn't work well. It is brighter but does not put the light in the right place. I am going to get one of the bright white 360 degree bulbs and give that a shot. For the moment I have the backup bulbs back in the car. I tried to take pictures of this but it just doesn't come out where you can tell anything.
02-03-13, 07:46 PM
#12
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
I decided to take one more photo in the broad light of day showing the difference. Like the ones above the left bulb is an LED and the right is a stock 28 year old 1157 bulb. Again in the photo the LED looks a little yellow but when you look at it with your eyes it is actually redder than the stock bulb. This may be an artifact of the imager in the camera and the way colors are generated. It could also have had something to do with the white balance. And yes the car was dirty. I corrected that later in the day. I also backed it up next to my light colored garage door and watched the reflection on the door to see if I could tell how much faster the LED comes on compared to the filament bulbs. It is noticeable, probably approaching 1/10th of a second longer for full intensity of the filament bulb.
I hope this helps
I hope this helps
02-04-13, 12:18 AM
#13
Surprisingly doesn't look too bad for PnP LED bulbs. A better comaprison would be a newer 1157 that doesn't have so much age on it. The filaments degrade over time and have weaker outputs. Also with the turn signal, a proper sized load resister will work for more than one bulb.
The real benefit of LEDs in the SA/FBs would be less current draw on the already weak electrical system. Just the same as building a relay harness for the headlights so you can draw power directly from the battery vs sending the power through the weak wiring and headlight switch first.
The real benefit of LEDs in the SA/FBs would be less current draw on the already weak electrical system. Just the same as building a relay harness for the headlights so you can draw power directly from the battery vs sending the power through the weak wiring and headlight switch first.
02-04-13, 08:31 AM
#14
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
Surprisingly doesn't look too bad for PnP LED bulbs. A better comaprison would be a newer 1157 that doesn't have so much age on it. The filaments degrade over time and have weaker outputs. Also with the turn signal, a proper sized load resister will work for more than one bulb.
The real benefit of LEDs in the SA/FBs would be less current draw on the already weak electrical system. Just the same as building a relay harness for the headlights so you can draw power directly from the battery vs sending the power through the weak wiring and headlight switch first.
The real benefit of LEDs in the SA/FBs would be less current draw on the already weak electrical system. Just the same as building a relay harness for the headlights so you can draw power directly from the battery vs sending the power through the weak wiring and headlight switch first.
A replacement of the flasher unit should be possible so you don't need the load resistors. I will post if I discover a pin compatible replacement. I recommend against just wiring something in, not just because it could be messy but more because of aggravation when something goes wrong.
I was not aware that people considered the electrical system in the FB to be weak. I never had any trouble with my 82 or either of my 85's and on the 82 I had a considerable car stereo and had replaced the headlamps with offroad (read that illegal) Cibies. What goes wrong? I suppose you might see a 30 amp load on the alternator if you have the wipers and rear defroster and heater fan and the lights all turned on at the same time. Is the alternator that anemic? This would be a little over a half horsepower load on the motor.
02-04-13, 08:39 AM
#15
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I think I see my next project now forming. Good info and I agree, a comparison with a new 1157
would be interesting. I'm mostly interested in LEDs for the brighter illumination, faster light up,
and less load on the system.
Also, they should be the last bulbs needed, ever!!!
$150.00 isn't that bad for the benefits. We spend way more than that for more trivial things I'm
sure.
would be interesting. I'm mostly interested in LEDs for the brighter illumination, faster light up,
and less load on the system.
Also, they should be the last bulbs needed, ever!!!
$150.00 isn't that bad for the benefits. We spend way more than that for more trivial things I'm
sure.
02-04-13, 09:06 AM
#16
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Perhaps a new 1157 bulb would show something a little different. But it would still draw 2 amps when the brake pedal was depressed. For a single bulb you need a 6 ohm resistor. For two bulbs you need a 3 ohm resistor. Advantage of one resistor is you only need to find a place for one. Down side is that the single resistor will produce twice the heat. The load resistors you buy are typically 50 watt 6 ohm resistors. At 12 volts this is 2 amps or 24 watts so only using half the rating of the part. A three ohm resistor would be passing 4 amps at 12 volts so 48 watts. It would need twice the surface area to dissipate the heat as effectively as a pair of 6 ohm ones. Fortunately this isn't a big deal because turn signals only have about a 50% duty cycle and then only when you are signaling a turn. You might sit at a light for 2 minutes and for that 2 minutes you are averaging 12 watts. Brakes are 100% duty cycle for the whole 2 minutes so of a little more concern.
A replacement of the flasher unit should be possible so you don't need the load resistors. I will post if I discover a pin compatible replacement. I recommend against just wiring something in, not just because it could be messy but more because of aggravation when something goes wrong.
I was not aware that people considered the electrical system in the FB to be weak. I never had any trouble with my 82 or either of my 85's and on the 82 I had a considerable car stereo and had replaced the headlamps with offroad (read that illegal) Cibies. What goes wrong? I suppose you might see a 30 amp load on the alternator if you have the wipers and rear defroster and heater fan and the lights all turned on at the same time. Is the alternator that anemic? This would be a little over a half horsepower load on the motor.
A replacement of the flasher unit should be possible so you don't need the load resistors. I will post if I discover a pin compatible replacement. I recommend against just wiring something in, not just because it could be messy but more because of aggravation when something goes wrong.
I was not aware that people considered the electrical system in the FB to be weak. I never had any trouble with my 82 or either of my 85's and on the 82 I had a considerable car stereo and had replaced the headlamps with offroad (read that illegal) Cibies. What goes wrong? I suppose you might see a 30 amp load on the alternator if you have the wipers and rear defroster and heater fan and the lights all turned on at the same time. Is the alternator that anemic? This would be a little over a half horsepower load on the motor.
barely keep up with all the stock goodies on and the lights all on. Thats why I
have my lights, fuel pump, elect fans, and ignition all wired up with direct battery
connections with relays triggered by the stock circuit. Normally all those things
(except the fans) push full power through the full circuit to work. For example
the ignition power goes through the full length of the harness as it gets switched
from the ignition switch on the column. Same for the lights. The fuel pump has
issues as well. So all those paths become, over time, failure prone as the wiring
and switches age and increase in resistance. If you take apart the engine harness
you can see how poorly they are made. Its pretty pathetic to look at once you
have it unwrapped.
05-26-13, 11:16 PM
#17
SuperbrightLED's now has relay replacements with no load minimum. Can anyone possibly confirm this is the correct relay?
CF13JL-02 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher | Flashers & Load Resistors | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs
CF13JL-02 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher | Flashers & Load Resistors | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs
05-27-13, 09:38 AM
#18
brappppp brappppp
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chad, this looks correct, but would need to see that load compensation is to make sure it would work correctly. hate to spend the money on bulbs and relay just find out it still triggers bulb warning system.
05-27-13, 11:38 PM
#19
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
There is no dash warning on the turn signals. Instead it blinks faster to tell you a bulb is out. This is a function of the flasher relay. So if this flasher has the correct pin out it should work. I am using the load resistors and kept the original flasher. If this proves to work for someone Ill get one and swap it out and remove the load resistors.
06-01-13, 10:26 PM
#20
Was wondering if anyone can *confirm* that Canbus LEDs actually prevent the Stop Light warning light from coming on in FB 85s.
I recently swapped out the incandescent 1157s and 1156s in my 85 GSL for (non-Canbus) LEDs -- red for taillights, white for backup lights -- and I get the stop light warning light in the cluster whenever I step on the brake...
Given the price of these things, I was hoping to get confirmation that Canbus types will actually take care of the problem before ordering a new set...I really like the look and brightness of the LEDs (22W each, from autolumination.com) and hope there's a solution for this short of taking out the stop light bulb from the cluster...
Soooo.... Any confirmation?
I recently swapped out the incandescent 1157s and 1156s in my 85 GSL for (non-Canbus) LEDs -- red for taillights, white for backup lights -- and I get the stop light warning light in the cluster whenever I step on the brake...
Given the price of these things, I was hoping to get confirmation that Canbus types will actually take care of the problem before ordering a new set...I really like the look and brightness of the LEDs (22W each, from autolumination.com) and hope there's a solution for this short of taking out the stop light bulb from the cluster...
Soooo.... Any confirmation?
06-02-13, 11:46 AM
#21
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
Was wondering if anyone can *confirm* that Canbus LEDs actually prevent the Stop Light warning light from coming on in FB 85s.
I recently swapped out the incandescent 1157s and 1156s in my 85 GSL for (non-Canbus) LEDs -- red for taillights, white for backup lights -- and I get the stop light warning light in the cluster whenever I step on the brake...
Given the price of these things, I was hoping to get confirmation that Canbus types will actually take care of the problem before ordering a new set...I really like the look and brightness of the LEDs (22W each, from autolumination.com) and hope there's a solution for this short of taking out the stop light bulb from the cluster...
Soooo.... Any confirmation?
I recently swapped out the incandescent 1157s and 1156s in my 85 GSL for (non-Canbus) LEDs -- red for taillights, white for backup lights -- and I get the stop light warning light in the cluster whenever I step on the brake...
Given the price of these things, I was hoping to get confirmation that Canbus types will actually take care of the problem before ordering a new set...I really like the look and brightness of the LEDs (22W each, from autolumination.com) and hope there's a solution for this short of taking out the stop light bulb from the cluster...
Soooo.... Any confirmation?
You can add the load resistors which are 6 ohm for each bulb if you don't want to take the instrument cluster out but I think the long term solution for the stop lights is to just remove the bulb from the dash. At least in places where this doesn't cause an inspection failure.
I would love to be proved incorrect.
07-08-13, 03:56 PM
#22
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
I replaced my backup lights with a set that I am finally happy with. These are individually brighter than both of the original filament bulbs together. I don't feel like I am backing up blind anymore.
Part Number: 1156-W26-CBT $19.95 each from superbrightleds.com. Just plug them in and you are good. No load resistors or anything like that needed for backup lights.
And if someone pulls up too close you can blister the paint on the front of their car <grin>. (Ok, not really but it is fun to imagine as a punishment.)
Part Number: 1156-W26-CBT $19.95 each from superbrightleds.com. Just plug them in and you are good. No load resistors or anything like that needed for backup lights.
And if someone pulls up too close you can blister the paint on the front of their car <grin>. (Ok, not really but it is fun to imagine as a punishment.)
07-12-13, 04:44 AM
#23
This is great stuff - thanks to all for details.
I swapped in a set of LEDs all-around about 4 yrs ago and the first time out in daylight a big-@ssed Semi pulled up beside me and the driver said "yer brake lights don't work" - meaning: the LEDs were virtually invisible in daylight!
Obv it sounds like this has changed and the "correct" ones exceed Tungsten outputs. - ??
That would be nice.
Keep the info coming-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
I swapped in a set of LEDs all-around about 4 yrs ago and the first time out in daylight a big-@ssed Semi pulled up beside me and the driver said "yer brake lights don't work" - meaning: the LEDs were virtually invisible in daylight!
Obv it sounds like this has changed and the "correct" ones exceed Tungsten outputs. - ??
That would be nice.
Keep the info coming-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
07-12-13, 11:28 AM
#24
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
You are welcome. The brightest 360 degree LED's are quite a bit brighter than the 1157 filament bulbs. The only downside for brakes is you have to use load resistors to keep the STOP LAMP idiot light from coming on. At the moment I am just ignoring it because I am going to pull the instrument cluster out and do some other things in there. My plan is to just remove the STOP LAMP indicator bulb. Of course some places that would cause an inspection failure I have heard.
The brightest bulbs from superbrightleds.com for use as FB Rx-7 Stop Lamps are as follows
1157-R26-CBT $19.95 70/35 lumens 250/100 ma
1157-R45-T $24.95 120/30 lumens 165 ma
1157-R18-T $17.95 lumens N/A 115 ma
1157 bulbs have two filaments in them and to simulate this the LED bulbs have two brightness levels. The lumens ratings are for the two levels. If you just look at the lumens the bulb I used (R45) would be the brightest. If you trust their ratings then the R26 bulb is the brightest. It will depend on the housings the bulbs are placed in somewhat. I am going to get one of the 1157-R26 bulbs to try in my other FB. I will do a side by side comparison at that time.
Using the correct color LED bulbs is important for getting the brightest light. I have also seen that there are a few people who have removed the colored lenses on their FB's taillight assemblies and this would be even brighter in that situation.
This technology is changing quickly so I expect prices to come down, part numbers to change, and further improvements to occur. But they are already better than conventional bulbs.
The brightest bulbs from superbrightleds.com for use as FB Rx-7 Stop Lamps are as follows
1157-R26-CBT $19.95 70/35 lumens 250/100 ma
1157-R45-T $24.95 120/30 lumens 165 ma
1157-R18-T $17.95 lumens N/A 115 ma
1157 bulbs have two filaments in them and to simulate this the LED bulbs have two brightness levels. The lumens ratings are for the two levels. If you just look at the lumens the bulb I used (R45) would be the brightest. If you trust their ratings then the R26 bulb is the brightest. It will depend on the housings the bulbs are placed in somewhat. I am going to get one of the 1157-R26 bulbs to try in my other FB. I will do a side by side comparison at that time.
Using the correct color LED bulbs is important for getting the brightest light. I have also seen that there are a few people who have removed the colored lenses on their FB's taillight assemblies and this would be even brighter in that situation.
This technology is changing quickly so I expect prices to come down, part numbers to change, and further improvements to occur. But they are already better than conventional bulbs.
07-18-13, 11:24 PM
#25
GSL-EV
Thread Starter
Another update. I bought one of the 1157-R26-CBT bulbs. I put it in the car to compare and took some photos. In the tail light photos the right bulb is the 1157-R45-T. All the photos were taken with the camera on manual and the same settings.
The brightness difference between the bulbs is obvious with the naked eye. It is quite less obvious in the photos. The relative brightness is that the filament bulb is quite a bit less bright. The R45 bulb is second and the R26 bulb is brightest but not by much. That agrees with the vendors ratings as well so save the $5 and get the R26 bulb as it is the brightest anyway.
Photo 1 is obviously the three bulbs. The left one is your typical 1157. The middle is the 1157-R45-T and the right bulb is the 1157-R26-CBT.
Photo 2 is running lights with the left bulb the filament 1157.
Photo 3 is with the Brake pedal depressed with the left bulb the filament 1157.
Photo 4 is the running lights with the left bulb the 1157-R26-CBT.
Photo 5 is with the Brake pedal depressed with the left bulb the 1157-R26-CBT.
The brightness difference between the bulbs is obvious with the naked eye. It is quite less obvious in the photos. The relative brightness is that the filament bulb is quite a bit less bright. The R45 bulb is second and the R26 bulb is brightest but not by much. That agrees with the vendors ratings as well so save the $5 and get the R26 bulb as it is the brightest anyway.
Photo 1 is obviously the three bulbs. The left one is your typical 1157. The middle is the 1157-R45-T and the right bulb is the 1157-R26-CBT.
Photo 2 is running lights with the left bulb the filament 1157.
Photo 3 is with the Brake pedal depressed with the left bulb the filament 1157.
Photo 4 is the running lights with the left bulb the 1157-R26-CBT.
Photo 5 is with the Brake pedal depressed with the left bulb the 1157-R26-CBT.