Hey you pot-stirrin SOB! :p:
...Heyyyyyy...- I recognize that avatar! That's the "batted penguin"! :) |
That damn penguin game is just too addictive!
And who you callin' a pot-stirrin' SOB? I resemble that remark! Brian |
Amen to the part on the rat's nest! When I bought my latest FB, the guy had pulled the rats nest off, along with the timing advance, brake booster..., and whats worse, he didn't even plug the ports on the intake. Then he tries to modify the carb so it will run again, and finally sells it to lucky me. I have been working on it for a month now and I still dont have the idle circuit working right. When she's cold she runs like a top, and when she warms up the mixture just keeps leaning out untill it dies. So far the only time I can run or test it is when I borrow the carb from another car :( So kudos to sterling on his expertise. And more kudos if he can help me out. Oh and i'm just curious, what's the VE in ur signature?
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Volumetric Efficiency.
Wow, bringing back a 4yr old thread from the dead (a good one though!). If it runs fine with the carb off another car, it sounds like it's time to dig in and try your first carb rebuild. :) They're really not that scary if you download the Carb Manual and take your time, and especially unscary if you can identify and remove all the useless junk on the carb. We can help with that (assuming you don't have to deal with emissions). Welcome to the forum, Jon |
Thanks for the help Jon, but I have rebuilt the carb several times already cleaning out the junk from the fuel tank (I finally got smart and cleaned out the tank). I am saving money though so I can afford one of sterling's carbs, as it looks like the problem wont get fixed anytime soon. Most of my problem is I cannot trace down the exact paths the fuel flows through, and I am fairly certain some of the jets have been put in the wrong places. The guy I bought the car from did all sorts of horrible things to try to "fix" all the vacuum leaks. I guess it would really demonstrate a lack of patience to just replace the whole thing, problem solved, but my knowledge base has run dry and it's too technical to address over the forum unless somebody really knows their stuff. And as for the old thread, im too stupid to look at dates :)
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Cocky bastard, that Sterling fella is!
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Originally Posted by BeenJaminJames
(Post 8802856)
Thanks for the help Jon, but I have rebuilt the carb several times already cleaning out the junk from the fuel tank (I finally got smart and cleaned out the tank). I am saving money though so I can afford one of sterling's carbs, as it looks like the problem wont get fixed anytime soon. Most of my problem is I cannot trace down the exact paths the fuel flows through, and I am fairly certain some of the jets have been put in the wrong places. The guy I bought the car from did all sorts of horrible things to try to "fix" all the vacuum leaks. I guess it would really demonstrate a lack of patience to just replace the whole thing, problem solved, but my knowledge base has run dry and it's too technical to address over the forum unless somebody really knows their stuff. And as for the old thread, im too stupid to look at dates :)
It does not give 3-d x-ray views of the carbs (bummer), but it has almost everything else about stock Nikkis in it. Pages and pages of good theory info. |
Originally Posted by Sterling
(Post 8805968)
Cocky bastard, that Sterling fella is!
When everyone keeps saying how good his carbs are, what do you expect :hahaha: Glad your still around. Now update your web site |
Stirling, speaking of float levels (well, we were!)
How much operational difference is there with a stock Nikki if fuel levels in the bowl are slightly higher than the index line in the glass? My front bowl level is approx midway between the index line and the top of the window; is that significant enough to justify cracking the bowl and adjusting the float tab? Is this enough of a difference to matter to emissions/performance? Oh, and second question: float dry measurements - - the manuals all indicate that the closing (inverted) measurement should be made "Between the float and the air horn gasket," and the pictures always show a line of measurement that points to the tip of the float... but the float edges are chamfered, not sharp, and the "top" of the float is not flat (it tapers to the edges slightly away from the mold seam.) EXACTLY where on the float should the measurement be taken? Edge, center, what? Since there's only a couple thousandths of error allowed, it's kind of important to measure at the right place. Thanks! |
Merry Christmas Sterling - glad to see you are still at it.
Tom T aka Speedturn |
Carb Manual?.....downloadable?.....detailed info?.....jet size listings?.....really?.....Thanks DivinDriver! You're a godsend! I didnt know there was such a thing as a manual for my carb. I'll have to check that out.
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click the link in my sig for it. Will bring you to Sgt. Fox's website.
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