? for the Kosei K1 guys
I have a 85 GS and just got a set of the Kosei K1's 15/7' My rear lug nuts aren't long enough to thread through the wheel and into the brake completly thus when torqued down they are all crooked as each lug is bolted in a different amount
I'm wondering if all I need is to get some longer lug nuts to compensate ? Anyone running the K1's did you have to do anything different to the lugs to get the wheels to bolt on ? |
or does anyone know of a place to buy some longer lugs with the same threads ?
I checked every automotive store around my house on sunday and nobody had anything, today I will go look at the actual tire stores as they were closed yesterday. Thanks |
First, a dumb question. Do the kosie's have the recesses on the backside, between the lug holes, to fit over the drum retention screws? Not all wheels will fit correctly with these screws in place. If the back of the mating flange is flat, remove those screws. There is no problem running without those screws, other than the drum possibly falling off when you remove the wheel.
Also make sure the center of the wheel is fitting over the center of the drum. If this is not the cause of the lugs not being able to thread in far enough, then you may need longer lugs. |
I prolly should have put this in the og post but my car has a 82 GSL lsd rear end in it right now. No more drum brakes :)
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Still, the disc rearend uses screws in the rotors. Same questions still apply.
If the screws are not an issue, and the center of the wheels fit correctly over the center of the hubs, longer lugs may be needed. They can be purchased at many tire shops. Another option, is using thread in studs, with regular lugnuts. How many threads of the the current lugs protrude thru the wheel? If there is a good amount of lug that protrudes (3/4"-1") you should be good to go. |
I bet your right, remove the screws.
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Hmm I didn't notice the two screws on the disc brakes but I have seen teh two you speak of on the drum brakes go check them later...so I will be straight if I remove the two screws ? -they don't mess anything up with holding the brakes/wheel on ?
But the two screws have got me thinking cause the wheel fits goofy and wobbles a ton, the wheel won't come off as the lugs are on there pretty tight but the 2 screws being in the way would make sence. Going to go home and take a look I will post with results. |
yep it was the two screws in the way on the rears, thanks for the hlep
I will be okay if I remove them ? They are on there so tight it is impossible to get them off with a screw driver, I will be taking the drill to them in a min so there isn't any turning back |
Originally Posted by notveryhappyjack
yep it was the two screws in the way on the rears, thanks for the hlep
I will be okay if I remove them ? They are on there so tight it is impossible to get them off with a screw driver, I will be taking the drill to them in a min so there isn't any turning back |
Impact driver, they work wonders on those extremely tight screws...
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Originally Posted by Blake
Don't do that! Use an impact screwdriver (the type you hit with a hammer). And, yes, it will be fine to remove them. All they do is hold the brake rotor to the hub, which the wheel and lugs studs do fine by themselves.
too late...+ I don't have accest to a impact screwdriver. Will this make is harder to put new rotors on in the future ? drilled the tops off the screws and the wheels fit perfect, I'm happy for now... |
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yep i had to takem out to fit these wheels
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...d=188385&stc=1 |
Originally Posted by Blake
And, yes, it will be fine to remove them. All they do is hold the brake rotor to the hub, which the wheel and lugs studs do fine by themselves.
I didn't even check to see if the wheels were recessed, till I tried to purchase a disc rearend. On a disc rear, the screws are almost pointless, as the calipers will prevent the rotors from falling off when the wheel is removed. |
Hopefully you weren't able to torque the lug nuts down hard enough to damage the rims. And by drilling the heads off of those screws, you might be in for a hard time when you need to remove the disc next time. Be prepared for more drilling...
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This thread would have helped me out awhile ago! Turns out that I never noticed that the screws were causing a problem. I sent out the rotors to get powdercoated and when they came back then i noticed that the rims didn't fit right. I had figured it was due to the added thickness from powdercoating. Been doing bodywork on the car for the last 3 years so the car didn't move much, finally figured out what was wrong 2 months ago when moving it to get the car inspected...was pretty embaressing, shoulda noticed the damn little screw was causing the probs ;)
Bryan |
Seattle Area!
Go to Les Schwab and Buy 16ea Part # 03401812 = 12x150 Chrome Gorilla Lugs 16ea Part # 03417412 = 12x1.50 1.5" Conversion Studs 1ea Part # 00000461 = Tunner Key Total Cost $53.00 The above stuff fits the Kosei K1's Perfectly. Use the Red Loctite to install the Studs. (Not Lugs Nuts)!!!! Torque to 87lbs and wait about 2hrs for the Loctite to dry then install the whells and torque to 90-95lbs Steve sgieldon |
Originally Posted by sgieldon
Seattle Area!
Go to Les Schwab and Buy 16ea Part # 03401812 = 12x150 Chrome Gorilla Lugs 16ea Part # 03417412 = 12x1.50 1.5" Conversion Studs 1ea Part # 00000461 = Tunner Key Total Cost $53.00 The above stuff fits the Kosei K1's Perfectly. Use the Red Loctite to install the Studs. (Not Lugs Nuts)!!!! Torque to 87lbs and wait about 2hrs for the Loctite to dry then install the whells and torque to 90-95lbs Steve sgieldon http://pineappleracing.com/Merchant2...egory_Code=WTA |
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Hopefully you weren't able to torque the lug nuts down hard enough to damage the rims. And by drilling the heads off of those screws, you might be in for a hard time when you need to remove the disc next time. Be prepared for more drilling...
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Originally Posted by Blake
You can buy stud conversion kits from us too. $24 for studs, $8 for nuts.
http://pineappleracing.com/Merchant2...egory_Code=WTA |
Originally Posted by sgieldon
Seattle Area!
Go to Les Schwab and Buy 16ea Part # 03401812 = 12x150 Chrome Gorilla Lugs 16ea Part # 03417412 = 12x1.50 1.5" Conversion Studs 1ea Part # 00000461 = Tunner Key Total Cost $53.00 The above stuff fits the Kosei K1's Perfectly. Use the Red Loctite to install the Studs. (Not Lugs Nuts)!!!! Torque to 87lbs and wait about 2hrs for the Loctite to dry then install the whells and torque to 90-95lbs Steve sgieldon |
So I got everything worked out and the wheels put on straight, I love the fit and they drip of hawtness.
Now for picture whore time :) http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/resized7.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/resized7.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/resized1.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/resized2.jpg as you can see in this pic the wheels sit flush with the fenders, just what I wanted http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/resized4.jpg |
very nice iv seen sgieldon ones they look awsome
and ever better if you get skirts and a rear bumper |
OHHHHH>>>>> So beautiful!!!!!
It looks just like my car. makes my heart feel good! Glad your enjoying them! hope the tires werent to old. Sorry I havnt returned the emails. been offline for the last week.. Hit me up if you need anything else. |
Very Nice Job!
This is my setup with the Les Schwab SetUp. The only thing I wish I could do is change My Paint Color. But every Good to Great Body person I talk to tells me to keep the Orginal Paint and Color cause the Car still looks like it just came from the Showroom with no Fades or Dings throughout the Car. I personally Hate the Color of My Car. Although we did do a PhotoShop 2 Tone Black on this Color and it did look good. Maybe some day I will quit listening to them!!! Just so you know those Screws in the Rear in the 4 Wheel Disc Brakes had me Scratching my Head Also. DUH AnyHow= (Great Job) notveryhappyjack steve sgieldon |
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Opps Forgot to include the Pic's.
Another DUH. Steve |
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