Keyless Entry followup...
 

Hi everyone,
On my project widebody car the door locks were shaved so I knew I needed to get some sort of keyless entry. After some research on this site (of course), others recommended buying a ebay kit from user audioadaptors. The kit I purchased consisted of autolock actuators, a central control box, 2 remotes, and all the stuff required to install it.

My inital impression of this unit is great. For the price of it im amazed that I didn't swap to a keyless entry before... All that was required for the actuator installation was a clip to attach to stock lock rod, and the metal rod that attaches from the actuator to the clip. Then tighten a couple of screws and your done.

Honestly the first side I did took a little while, I had to look at the kit and figure out what went where... But after further inspection I realized how easy it actually was. Then for the passenger side I just followed the same idea, and it took about 30 minutes max. I was able to use a stock hole in the door and mount the actuator unit there. Then I fed the wires properly through the doors.

I think this may be one of the smartest things you can buy for your RX-7. Materials requried consisted of, some basic electrical knowledge, solder, shrink wrap, extra lengths of wire, wire strippers.

The finished product seems to work very well. You can remove a jumper so that the unit pops the actuator twice up and twice down if you would like. Then another option is to have both doors lock once the ignition is turned to the on position. Then when you put it to the off position your doors are unlocked. Very cool setup...

Dan_s_young

very awesome Dan, im glad it work work out the way you wanted it too. i might have to look in too this also!

awesome. I bought the same kit, and will be installing it soon.

I am right in the middle of the EXACT same install (RRAL 500 from audioadaptors http://stores.ebay.com/AudioAdaptors-com ). I will post pictures of the lock actuators in a few hours.
I having two issues
1) I was thinking about not hooking up the alarms, just the doors. I have it this way now but the unit keeps clicking so I think it wants to be fully installed. I was going to try the valet override and see if that helps. Any ideas?
2) did you hook up the rear hatch to AUX port? I think you need to use a relay but I have yet figured that out. The unit puts out a negative charge for the rear hatch.

Thanks

Also where did you put the little black box?

hmmm well the unit I got is just the keyless entry system. The main unit that I recieved was bright yellow, I think im going to hide it behind some of the middle dash stuff. I tried to hook the hatch up to the aux port but it didn't work... But when I use a test light to the aux wire of the unit and press the aux button the test light comes on, therefore it is feeding it power. But I hooked it up so that it bypassed the switch in the dash, but for some reason it didn't work... A relay may be the answer though, if the hatch is not getting enough power to work, then you could wire a relay in so that when you press the aux button the relay closes a larger power wire going to the hatch release... I might have to give that a try.

I know one mistake I made when trying to hook this thing up is I was trying to use the actuators with the CF remote that the kit came from, apparently this remote is not yet programmed, so that is the reason I was having some of my problems.

I made the mistake of buying the alarm combo unit which requires external relays for the door actuators. Let me know if you figure out to wire a relay up the hatch. I don't quite get how to use the relays
here is picutre of my doors.

I've been thinking about installing one of these. Thanks for the review, I will be doing this in the near future! :icon_tup:

Hmmmm did you make sure to solder and shrinkwrap all your connections?

One thing I noticed today which im going to have to find away around is the door locks cycling to unlock and then relock when you turn the ignition to the start position.... Anyone have any ideas for this one???

Dan: It sounds like your power is connected to a point that doesn't have power when cranking. Some switched sources on the car have power when cranking and some that don't. The engine fuse is one that will definitely have power when cranking. Try taping into that one.

Kent

To wire up the hatch first you guys have to find out if it's positive or negative triggered. To figure out what it is, take a test light and clip it to a 12volt source, then probe the wire and press the hatch button. If the test light lights up, then that means it's negative triggered. If it's positive triggered, put the clip on ground, probe the hatch wire, then hit the button. If it lights up, then it's positive triggered.

Sounds like the auxillary port has a positive output and your hatch wire is negative triggered. Maybe that's why it's not working. Check out if the hatch wire is a negative trigger, if it is then hook up your relay like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7/negative.jpg

Kim-
Thanks for the good info. I know the alarm unit puts out negative but I am not sure about the hatch. I will check on Sunday when I have time unless someone else knows off hand.
Thanks

Ok, thanks for the advice, I initally though you hit the nail on the head. But I tested this idea out today, sure enough the locks don't cycle after the key is turned to the crank position. But one problem, there is not power going through when the ignition is off, therefore ruining the purpose of the keyless entry.

I then tried wiring a seperate power cable back from the fusebox, but it did the same cycling on and off when the ignition was turned to the crank position. Hmmmm im running out of ideas, I would have thought wiring it back from the fusebox would work, but what makes it cut out like that???

Thanks
Dan_s_young

Maybe the power source needs to be constant, then. It should say in the instructions, but it would make sense becuase of the keyless entry. In the fusebox, there are basically 4 different power sources:

- 12v constant (for clock, mempry for radio, dome light and such)
- 12v accesory (often radio and a few other things get power here. Power with key in, clicked to the first position)
- 12v switched w/o power during cranking (key must be 'ON' for power, no power when cranking usually things that don't require power during cranking such as wipers)
- 12v switched w/ power during cranking (used for say power to coils, ECU, and so on)

Find yourself a connection that has power with the key off. You can track it down with a voltmeter or a test light. I could also take a look at the wiring diagram to find what fuse/wire color has constant 12v. This should fix the problem. I believe the cycling is due to when the key is in between the 'ON' position and the crank position, there is no power. So the device is seeing ON_OFF_ON. Good luck.

Kent

I allways like this mod but the one concern i had the most was that they have made the battery die. my friend had shaved door handles and he went to his car a couple times and the battery was died from this. I know you can go through the hatch or relocate a hood release to be able to open the hood to get a jump, but i dont want to be gettting jumps all the time. any one with them had any problems with this? or is does this jsut happen because of a shitty battery

Hmmmm maybe hooking it into the power for the clock would work, the clock remains on all the time and it stays on while cranking. Thanks for some other ideas!

I ran a constant + off the battery for my stereo and just tapped into that for the alarm and I don't think I am having the issue that you are. I am not sure because I have the seats out for repair and have not started the car.

I wanna do this, But I am really not thay keen on the key remotes. Would there be a way to get another type of remote and make it work with this system, or should I just suck it up.

So im guessing this is a no, or what?

The key remotes? I am not sure what you are talking about

Yea these things
https://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d...LR4Remotes.jpg

Yes get another system OR get a different remote and program it to work the system purchased from e-bay. I am pretty sure that you can buy a different remote and program it to work with systems such as those that I and Dan have.

I actually like the ones that came with Dan's system more than mine because they include an AUX bottom for the rear hatch

hmmm just a update, I tried wiring the power straight from the positive battery terminal and still am having the problem of it cycling... I don't know what ill try next....