Just a taste..........
 

Hey guys... I know it has been a while since I posted. I have had all kinds of crazy stuff happening in my life, so I am finally back to RX-7's.

Well many of you know my "project cheap autocrosser" that turned to "project roadracer"...... now it is being transformed yet again to "project T2"!!

During the last race, I completely ruined my perfect little 12a. I had a water hose blow out and I lost all my coolant at once. Due to the location of my temperature probe, I never saw an increase in operating temp until it was too late. I basically cooked my little engine to nothing.

The stock 12a pushed the car well. My car is very light (1900#) so a stocker did...relatively well. Problem was I would be all over the fast cars in the turns only to have them pass me on the straights! I always wanted more power!

Well power is a coming!! I bought a 1988 FC that has a turbo 2 engine that seems to be in excellent knit. The FC runs strong even though it weighs close to 3200#!! I think this engine will flat out fly in a 2000# car.

I will be using the drivetrain, wiring and computer out of the donor car and then sell the rest. The FC has a carbon fiber hood, RB springs, Tokico Shocks, 5 Zigan wheels, Strut tower brace, RB full exhaust system. Don't know how much I will sell the shell of the FC yet.

I am out of the country on business for the next two weeks and will have limited internet access. I just wanted to get this out there!

I will move to the "build threads" with the official transformation.

For now I leave you with some pictures. Keep the comments coming. I have not personally made this kind of swap, but I feel it is a totally do-able thing!

Receiver Car.....

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Donor Car....

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Donor Engine....

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This looks like it will be an awesome car! I've loved your "Project Cheap Autocrosser" I am very curious to know, where was the temp probe on the 12a? I want to avoid that for my 12a... Where would you have put it if you could do it again?

Anyhow I think the using-the-stock-ecu plan is terrific. It seems like most folks who have trouble blowing up engines doing while trying to tune standalones. I actually love standalone ecus, but the learning curve is very steep, and turbo rotaries hate detonation, so mistakes are expensive ones.

I used an "in line" adapter on the upper radiator hose. It works well when there is water there. Take away the water.... nothing to touch the temp probe.

Not sure where I will put the temp probe on new engine.

I will use factory FC computer for now. The FC is running 9 pounds of boost now and is using a "Fuel Cut Defender" to keep the engine from dropping fuel once the boost goes over stock. The engine is also running GSL-SE secondary injectors which provide more fuel than the stockers.

With this being said, the T2 engine should be double the HP of a stock 12a. I really think this should be enough... well for now! The main thing is now I will have torque!!!

If I go stand alone, I will use a power FC from APex I. My friend Rx7nut13b (Chuck Coutts) from Texas would be the one tuning it on a dyno if I go that route.

I also will be installing boost gage and AEM wide band o2 gage to keep an eye on the engine.

I simply want strong, reliable power. The T2 should easily provide 200-225 HP in the tune it has now.

S4's are 180hp stock, if yours is running 9psi with bigger secondary injectors I'm sure you're making more than 225. You'll love a T2 FB :D

I put my temp sensor in the back on the water pump housing and it works very well, just drill and tap a hole for it and you're done :)

Best spot in my opinion.

I remember seeing this car a while back, sorry about the unlucky 12a mishap. I can't wait to see the results of the TII in there, as I've considered it for my car as well - just for fun :biggrin:

This is the main reason I backed up my stock water temp gauge with an oil-temp gauge when I added my cluster - - I figured the odds on losing BOTH fluids were effectively zero unless failure was so catastrophic that it wouldn't matter anyway.

Glad to hear the project is moving along, Jim!

Wow that is a good looking FB! Sorry bout the 12a though.

Yeah I cant wait to get back to the states to continue my T-2 quest. I am going to take my time and do it one step at a time.

Now I know some may disagree, but I am wanting to use my FB transmission with this setup. I will NOT be doing drag race starts and power shifting with this car, so I think it has a chance to live.

What do I have to do concerning flywheel and clutch while mating a T-2 engine to an FB?

I know it can be done, but I am getting conflicting stories on what to change. SOme say the flywheel will work but I need a NA clutch. Some say change both!!??

Any ideas??

You definitely CAN'T use the T2 flywheel if you are putting a NA trans behind it (clutch is a different size and has a different # of splines than the NA's). Not sure if this is a dealbreaker for you, but no factory flywheel will work. You need to get the automatic counterweight (used with aftermarket flywheels) that matches your rotating assembly (s4) then use a aftermarket flywheel for a NA (would be best to find one for a FB to match your trans, but any NA flywheel *should* work...) Then you use the NA clutch and NA trans etc..

Personally I"m one of the ones who would advice against the FB trans, but it can be done and certainly makes the swap much easier. Just swap front covers and oil pans get the RB mounting bar or mod yours and off you go!

Sorry to hear about your motor!

We use an repurposed oil pressure switch on our Lemons car to safeguard against a coolant leak. Any pressure loss and it will fire the idiot light.

Jim

Any pictures of the damage to the 12a? Looking forward to this build.

Subscribed! The last build was great.

Hey, Just throwing this out there, but the s4 turbo and NA blocks use the same auto counterweight so shouldn't you be able to stick an s4 non turbo flywheel on the turbo block?

you need an NA flywheel that matches the motor, so if its an S4 engine, you run S4 NA flywheel. although if its a race car, aftermarket light ones are better

Hmm, I just looked at Mazdatrix and you know what? I think you're right, looks like the counterweights are the same for all 86-88 (and 89-95). I didn't realize the rotating assemblies used the same counterweight for turbo and NA. If that is the case then yeah I believe you're right. He could use a NA flywheel on there.

At least my answer was half right lol, he definitely can't use the T2 flywheel, but he can in fact use a stock flywheel... Good to know!


edit: J9fd3s beat me to it lol

I will get some pictures up when I get back to the states. As for now.. I am stuck in the middle of the Oman desert for the next two weeks!!

I have an auto trans counterweight for a FB. I was one going to run a lightweight flywheel on my 12a. I wonder if that counterweight will work when going to a lightweight flywheel on the T-2 motor???

Anyone know??

No, the counterweight must match the rotating assembly. You need the auto counterweight for an S4

OK, at least that is something that is easy available!

Looks like I will have an FB auto counterweight for sale if anyone interested!!

Nice to see you back at it again Jim. :) You will be very happy with the added power... But then you'll have to get used to the dreaded "lag". lol.


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What year rotating assembly is your counter weight from...I have a 83-85 12a, but I might need the 79-83 for a build this winter.

It is for the 83-85 12a

Unfortunately for autocross this added power will put me in a class with the most competitive driver (in that class) on the planet!! Jeff Keisel in E Mod!! He is a big player here in SoCal. So if I do an autocross from time to time and he is there...time to lose for me!!

Big thing is, I like to have fun. I have really been enjoying the track days and cannot wait for the added power!!

Mazda RX-7 Performance Parts

Project T II continues. I did a compression test on my T-II engine. It did not give me the results I wanted, but the numbers are at least even. (All in the 70's).
The thing is, the engine does not smoke and runs like a bat out of hell.

I am "probably" going to move ahead with the swap and rebuild the engine later once I get everything sorted in the FB.

Luckily a turbo can still run great with low compression numbers, you just make it up with boost!

A few changes though. I have changed my mind about running the factory wiring and computer. The wiring on this car is almost 25 years old and is old and very brittle.

I have decided to run a Haltech Sprint RE computer with custom built wiring harness. This will make the swap a complete plug and play.

I have bought a GSL-SE front cover and oil pan. Those should be coming in the mail.

I also had which hunter performance rebuild the fuel injectors. They work great now.

I have put about 750 miles on the FC turbo and the engine runs flawlessly, despite the "lower than wanted" compression numbers.

I will stop driving the FC and pull the engine starting next weekend.

If you guys get a chance, check out the for sale section. I still have some 1st gen parts for sale and will continue to add more there.