Installing aftermarket carb/intake, What to do with emission equipment?
 

well I jumped in with both feet!! Unbolted the intake manifold, unbolted the rats nest, omp lines, a couple cables, a few electrical connections and a couple little rubber lines and pulled!!!!! WOW!!! does that open up some space!!!

So I'm on my way to switching to an aftermarket intake/carb set-up. My firsy question is what did you guys do with all those electrical connectors?? Other than the dist. advanc and power brake boost, what other things are going to need to be reconnected to make this thing run again????

I already figured out htere are water outlets to the intak (poured out all over the floor!)...I can just plug those??

sorry....It's an 85 stocker, in the process of doing what I can to make it go better than stocker. I plan on pre-mix, so remove omp.

Man, I feel like I'm in deep!!!! I like it!

Yes, you can pop some freeze plugs in the housing coolant passages, no harm there. In fact, many race series require you to so that you can remove the carb and manifold for inspection in case someone protests you and accuses you of porting.

Regarding the electrical plugs, you can keep the one for the vacuum advance if you want to keep that enabled - ditto for the AC if you're going to keep it. You'll want to leave the wires to the oil pan, oil pressure sender (the mushroom shaped sender under the oil filter) and the coolant sender which is just above that. You'll want to also leave your alternator lead. Outside of those, I think you can cut everything else loose. I'd wait for someone else to chime in, though, as I'm more familiar with the EFI cars.

search >>>> "rat's nest removal" <<<<

and all will be revealed

And save all your parts for when you need to pass an emissions test

I see that you are in VT, do they have emissions up that way? Im sure if you live in a big town they do, but I bet out in the small towns its just your narmal inspection.

I have been to Hardwick, VT many of times, I dont remember any of the places being that advanced to even know how to use an emmissions machine lol

Here is a complete write up on step one to step done
http://www.ten15.net/Maz.tutorials/

BTW: We are good, REAL GOOD lol

Get some pics posted up of that badboy!

-Matt

being an 85 I'm not worried about emmisions, I know I can get it inspected. If it was newer they would be checking it.
As far as the other stuff....a/c was ripped out along with the air pump (first clean up projects!)
yea, I left all the electrical connected to things I wasen't pulling (yet). I was more ?? the 4 or 5 connectors around the carb and all those that connected the rats nest?!?!

I'll reread the rats nest removal and check out the other tutorial

thanks
as far as pics go...I'll need a tutuorial on that too!!!!! I'm even more computer stupid!!!!!

if you made it this far, I have faith you can get pics up!

20 mm freeze plugs for the housings. When I did my first carb mod, I sat down with the wiring diagram from the FSM and depinned the main connector on the passenger side firewall. I think I ended up with 5 wires, may only need 3, it's been a few years.

So I just reread the tutorials and as good as they are they seem to refer to reusing the stock intake and carb....hooking this and that back up to vaccum here and valve there...........all these connections and valves, etc. are GONE!!! No more shuttle valve, no air control, no ac selinoid. etc!! And no explanation about what to do with all the electrical connectors floating around!

I've seen the pics of guys running with nothing but an aftermarket intake with a weber or such sitting up on it.....I'm just curious what they did with all these othe things hanging in space now!!

I'm guessing I can just leave most of them hanging, connect the throtle and choke cables (what is this third cable??) connect the dist adv vaccum and brake vaccum somewhere and see if it runs!!?!?!?!???

Something like that anyways!!

Third cable is the hot start assist, 4th cable would be cruise control if it had it. Download a copy of the FSM from my sig and start with the wiring diagrams for wiring removal.
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I did exactly what Trochoid said and looked over the wiring diagram and found all the wires that are no longer needed and removed them. I removed them by pulling the pins at the conections.

I have an '83, so there might be a few differences, but I just disconnected the entire part of the wiring harness that goes over the engine. The only thing I kept from it is the coolant temp gauge, for which I just used a bullet connector shoved onto the correct pin from the harness connector (the stock oil pressure gauge is useless, and I didn't care for the oil level sender; I check my oil often, and I'm premixing anyway). The only vacuum hoses I have left are the ones for the PCV system and brake booster. You'll probably want the vacuum advance for the distributor hooked up as well, and the choke cable if you have a use for it. Other than that, rip it all out.

nice......thats what I'm talking about!!!!

Not sure if its been said to you, Welcome to the darkside!

One question for you, what carb setup are you planning on running?

what carb........well I'm sure I'm just asking for headaches but I have a set of dual solex 40's coming and I'm going to try to get them to work....at least until I pull all my hair out...than I'll try something easier

Hmm, sounds tricky and may be a bit too big when you add them together. I know the old weber dual dcd setup is great, but their really hard to find. Some other good options are these: First is the racing beat holley setup
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=18009
Second is a weber 45dcoe setup
http://mazdatrix.com/r-weber.htm
And as always, the sterling carb. Good Luck!

so is ANYONE running a dual carb set-up....or tried to set it up and failed??? I would love to hear the stories!!!!! Of course any pics would always be nice!!!

Wow, dual Solex's huh? Well, you will need to get small a$$ venturies. Those things sucked on a land rover, hope they work better on a rotary. I am interested in how you plan on getting those to work, what intake you using?

trial and error and a lot of help!!!!!!

Some people have done dual Weber DCDs. Trochoid is one off the top of my head. A few others have done dual DCOEs.

i would go with i single weber.

i was running the dual weber dcd set up .....i think they were modded to 36/44s

but i was having the hardest time getting them tuned........although i think it was due to one of the carbs needing a rebuild .

i had them set so the secondary's would open at 6.5k and when they did it would feel like 5 pounds of boost kicking in !

and ways post some pics when you get your carbs in .

well I'm going to give these a shot...you never know maybe I can make them work..

What do I need to get rid of the OMP?? Is there a block off plate that will let me just remove it and start mixing my gas? Thats about the only thing left on the engine that looks like it is extranious!!