Information on which clutch to buy?
 

I need to replace the release bearing, but I might as well replace the clutch since I'll have the tranny out. What's the best replacement clutch available? How about a stage 1, will I need it if I do a hogged out Nikki and RB full exhaust?:dragster:

Stage 1 of what brand? I don't think there are any standards for whats called a stage 1 across
manufacturers. A stock Exedy setup will work fine or you can start looking into various other
mftrs and models. Probably don't need a 4 puck or unsprung clutch, as they make it pretty
hard to drive on the street at times.

I got this clutch from mazdatrix or racingbear, can't remember but its still going strong.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...zda/model/rx-7

I was looking at a KUPP racing or PSI racing clutch, just want to if they're any better than the Exedy clutch since they're all about the same price?:dunno:

I've got an ACT clutch it my car, peddle pressure is fairly light but it grabs pretty hard. If I remember they aren't priced too bad either

Stock clutch is fine. You will not make enough N/A torque to make a stock clutch slip.

It's the same size as a WRX, and it's larger than Miatas and people put 200-250ft-lb though THOSE.

Uprated clutches are mostly good for breaking throwout forks/pivot balls, and wrecking transmissions if you get an unsprung disk.

My favorite setup is a stock pressure plate and a metal puck disk. The engagement is very quick but you can learn to slip it easily, and it won't explode like a fiber clutch can. And you won't need two feet to push the pedal down or dent the floor to get it disengaged if it's one of those asinine "long travel" pressure plates. There's something very nice about a light feeling clutch that goes from full engagement to full disengagement in about 1/2" of pedal travel.

No.

I gotta ask, why do you say your carbs are 'hogged out"? Just curious.

"Hogged out" is the terminology the kind of people with fewer braincells than the number of buttons on their overalls use, and means a moron reefed everything out with a die grinder and now it runs like complete shit.

Thanks guys for the info. I'll just order the Exedy OE replacement from Rock Auto, that's were its cheaper than any other online site.

Really? You want to go there? Its true we do take grinders/dremels to the carbs
and make them smoother/bigger/better but we aren't idiots and they run great.
Take it all back or else! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hogged out or Fat, its all just words Peejay. It means the carb is bigger, thats all. If you
think our nikkis run that bad come and go for a ride. Its all fun until the go pedal
gets mashed to the floor! :egrin:

lol, I uses the term lovingly but maybe I should change it. Maybe.

The first time I heard the term "hogged out" was in reference to a 12A intake manifold that someone hogged out to fit a Holley on it. It never would have ran all that well. :) And yes it looked like a monkey took a die grinder to it.

As for my carbs, the the venturis are very carefully enlarged and the shape is vastly improved over the stock shape. So the term "hogged out" isn't appropriate here. But I don't know what else to call it at the moment.

How about calling it what you're actually doing to it (reaming). So call it a reamed out Nikki. No pun intended.

I'm not reaming it though. I'm die grinding it. No reamers in use here.

Jeff I hope you don't wear overalls, cause I know you have more brain cells than buttons and
your not a moron. :)

Jeff20B actually "hogged out" my Nikki and my 79' runs great! Besides that, I have a long primary full RB exhaust and a RB air intake and I run heads up with my friends 240z with also a full exhaust and triple Mikuni carbs and a newer model differential. Totally recommend Jeff20b's carbs!

Back to the clutch question . . .

Exedy is an OEM supplier, and that's a big plus. The quality processes required by the OEMs usually spill over to all their products, and you end up with better parts.

The OEM Street Clutch Kit is a solid value; you can get it at Rock Auto for a few bucks less than at Mazdatrix.

The clutch pedal pressure was too low for me -- drove me crazy. I went with the Stage 1 clutch (Mazdatrix 16-10806 or Exedy 10806) instead. It's a lot more expensive, but I like the feel enough that it was worth it for me. I didn't need the extra torque holding capability since I'm only running a NA 12A (which shows no evidence of torque).

Elwood, your car is an '84 chassis which has a "helper spring" on the clutch pedal. It assists the pedal going down after the half way point. It can cause a stock duty pressure plate to feel pretty weak.

All 84-85 cars had this helper spring. The 83 and older cars did not, only having a basic return spring which increases pedal effort the further to the floor you press. Anyone considering a new clutch should be aware of this.

I positively hated having an Exedy Stage 1 in my 81 car but can't wait to install it in my 84. :) I even went as far as to remove the return spring, which helped a little, but stop n' go still sucked. I'm sure it'll be just fine in the 84 chassis.

I have a lot of torque (boosted Nikki) and it is causing the current stock duty pressure plate to slip. It also does feel pretty weak, not that I mind it (I'm kinda like peejay here) but oh well. I just want it to stop slipping.

I prefer the term "bored out".... I wish I had overalls. :lol:

What is the break away torque for the stock clutch? Can't be 200-250 foot pounds?! The Exedy "stage 2" setup only has 258 pound feet of gripy.


OP: the stock setup or a next step up would be fine. I had a stock clutch on my old 6 port NA 13B and it held up fine.

[/QUOTE]. OP: the stock setup or a next step up would be fine. I had a stock clutch on my old 6 port NA 13B and it held up fine.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info, I already ordered the Exedy OE replacement from Rock Auto.

Thanks -- good to know. Does the helper spring work in addition to the return spring, or instead of it? Can it be removed to make the 84-85 cars feel more like the earlier ones?

I imagine the spring could be removed, but I don't recommend it. The design is a bit different than a return spring.