How are your POR-15 tank kits holding up?
 

This is a survey for anyone that has done the POR-15 gas tank lining kit on the inside of their tank, and done it properly. Those of you that have the kit and went through all of the steps:

1) How is it holding up?
2) How long ago did you do it?
3) Any flaking from the liner?

If you only did part of the kit, made up some version of your own, or did a crappy job please refrain from commenting. I am thinking about doing this to Rosie, but I'd like to know others opinions first. I used this kit on my 1985 GS several years ago, but never had a chance to see how it held up. I sold the car shortly afterwards.

Anyway, let's hear what you guys think!

Jamie

I did it on my REPU's 21 gallon tank back in ??2003??. Cleaning with POR-15's Marine Clean and Simple Green plus lots of water flushing was key. Most of the original liner came out in big flakes. After that, using their Metal Ready deruster multiple times was very important, but don't flush it out with straight water or it'll flash rust. I ended up rinsing it with a 50/50 solution of Metal Ready and water which really reduced flash rusting.

Follow the directions on the kit, slosh the cleaners and deruster around thoroughly. Hold the tank at a different angle and slosh more. Be very thorough and patient.

The actual liner goo is really good stuff. Best results are from adding in the liner and rotating, flipping the tank around in three applications. Put it on too thick and it'll bubble. To thin and won't get complete coverage. Three applications of the liner worked the best.

The new liner sticks real well. Some of it did come off in a very fine particle form that glitters. I saw it in the clear fuel filter. Put a clear cheapo Fram G-2 fuel filter after the tank, before the fuel pump and buy several of them. They will need to be changed until no more glittery particulate matter appears.

The new liner stuck to the older liner, and the old liner flaked a little bit - taking off the new liner attached to it. This is the flaw of the kit.

Overall it's a real good kit but on second thought I'd take it to a shop to be done professionally. They boil the tank and the hot liquid is great at removing the original liner and prep for relining.

So far so good on mine, but it hasn't been all that long. After converting my FB tank to "in tank" style fuel pump (for the 13bt) I coated it with the por 15 kit. I accidentally clogged the vapor vent and didn't go about fixing it until almost at least 8 months later. Tank still looked good inside, not flaking or anything. And the little bit that got in the vent line was in there really solid, ended up havign the cut the blocked section of tubing off, wasn't able to clear it...
Not exactly what you were looking for, but hopefully at least a little helpful ;)

so how much is this complete set. I have to do in my RX-3 and juggling between taking it to a local radiator shop who will do it for $150 OR do it myself.

Looks like it's about $70, not including shipping.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=FTRK&dept=11

Jamie

thats not bad all. I will give this one a shot. thanks for the info. :icon_tup:

Do you guys have any tips for keeping the sealer out of the three fuel lines on the top of the tank? I have an 83 tank and they may not be removable...

Piano wire?

I have a very rusty GSL-SE tank that needs something done to it. The drain bolt leaks but I suspects its the aluminum crush washer. The filler tube is also missing some material at the edge. It sat for 10 years in a car without a gas cap so water trickled in every time it rained.

I bet it's so bad a radiator shop would turn me away. :( I probably have no choice but to try the POR15 thing or maybe just remove the tube plate, actually look inside the thing, and see just how bad it really is. If it;s just some simple rust at the very bottom, as I suspect it is (other than the filler tube) the fix will be easy. Oh, and a new aluminum crush washer.

I've done 3 in the past 8 years. I follow the directions exactly. I know the first 2 are holding up great. The other 1 I sold to the local rotary shop and they put it in a customer's car. I lost track of that one.

I've also cleaned several tanks with just the boiling water and Marine clean. These cars had been sitting for some time and the tanks had old, rusty, goo in them, but no leaks. They were spotless after a couple of cleanings. If you don't have holes in your tank this may be all you need to do.

I just placed an order with POR-15 for enough to do the 2 tanks I have waiting.

Before

http://intertron.com/ron/images/setank.jpg

After

http://intertron.com/ron/images/tankspu.jpg

I was planning on cleaning mine out with the POR 15 kit, some boiling water, and a length of chain. The only problem I see is that the liner that comes in the kit sets up like CONCRETE. The stuff is not to be joked around with. The trickiest part is keeping all the openings, lines, and threads in the tank from getting filled with it. Because once it sets up, it's not easily removed.

Inittab used to have a really nice writeup on here about how he used it, but I can't find it anymore...

The $65 I spent at the rad shop to have the tank pro-cleaned was money well spent!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Blow the lines out with a air hose or use wire to get that stuff outta there before it dries, once its in thre its in there... The one problem you're gonna have is that like you said the 83 and older tanks have the lines brazed on, and on the bottom of the pickup is a screen that you really can't remove since theres no easy way to get to it. I ended up not doing this treatment on my 12a powered 83 for just that reason....

compressed air into the lines once you're done flipping the tank around.

por-15 does sell a solvent that eats their stuff. but then i gotta get the dissolved crud outta the tank.