How to remove rats nests on GSL-SE? Is it the same as 12a?
 

Over the winter i'd like to remove my "rats nets" but i haven't seen anyone really speak about it on GSL-SEs. Are they any different? If so, does anyone know the steps or have a write up?

Sorry, ours is for carby motors only. I know almost nothing about SE's.

Thanks, Atleast i know not to try to follow any 12a steps! Anyone out there done this?

All I know is the RN on my 13B looks far different than the one on the 12A. It can still be a PITA though.

There's not much to the rat's nest on a 13b SE. I've looked at the design myself and realize that it's better to be left in place and functional, since it would be a lot of work to wire around the functions performed by these elements.

From front to rear, you have the Vacuum advance solenoid, 2nd to rear, you have the Retard solenoid, and to the right of these, you have the Vent Solenoid and another one I can't remember right now. The two front (green and orange) solenoids control vacuum advance for ignition, obviously by looking at the vent lines going to the distributor housing.

The vent solenoid and the vacuum soleniod control idle speed based on a number of factors. Removal of any of these solenoids would result in the engine not running (or idling) as well as designed.

I'd leave them alone, particularly if you need to have your car pass emissions testing in your state of residence. HTH,

put a webber carb, then you can remove the rats nest!! and the car will have more power too!!

I think you might be right there. But I have some simular problems. I plan a 13B swap, using an FC NA as a donor. I would like to use a header, and therefor have to remove the airpump. Now, what with rest of the ratnests? If I simply remove all stuff, will the stock ECU still work? I plan on going WOLF 3D later on, but would like to start with FC ECU, and then move up.

rotary emotions
I'm still using the airpump on my SE with a header. The mixing of air in the exhaust helps keep the stink levels down a little bit more than without. I hate having visions of a motorcycle cop stopped behind me at a light and starting to rub his eyes then motioning me to pull over :eek: that would just suck.
I'm with LongDuck, all that under there has to work in conjunction. The SE doesnt really have much of a rats nest to begin with, comparing with the 12A.
Going with an aftermarket system is a different story.. most everything can be removed and plugged.

To add a little to what LongDuck said...
 

Actually, only the first solenoid (green connector) controls the vacuum advance; the second controls the fuel pressure regulator. It helps with hot starting: normally the solenoid is activated, applying vacuum to the regulator which keeps fuel pressure at 28 PSI. If the intake air temp is over 122* F the solenoid closes and the pressure is regulated to 37 PSI during, and for a minute after, starting. It's probably wise to keep that solenoid.

Some have advanced the vacuum and left the vacuum line disconnected, in which case you could remove that solenoid.

As the BAC maintains idle when the engine is under varying loads (electrical and A/C) I imagine it and it's two solenoids (the Vent and Vacuum, as LongDuck said) would be missed with the headlights on and the A/C or heater running. But I know some have removed the BAC and it's solenoids.

Many have removed the ACV, in which case you could lose the two solenoids on the firewall near it.

I've kept mine stock as I find it all works together rather well. :)

-John.

anyone know where I can get used vacuum and vent solenoids? DirectFreak was kind anough to send me a pair of solenoids but I didn't closely scrutinize the pic he sent first and ended up with the green & orange ones.

Arent all the solenoids the same?