How to get the tension rod nuts off?
 

Alright, this seems like a dumb question but I am struggling here. I'm trying to swap the bushings and can't get the nuts off the end of the tension rods (front ends). They seem to be 26mm bolts, but I cannot find a 26mm wrench anywhere. It's as if they don't exist. 27mm seems too big, and 1" is a tiny bit too small.

How in the heck do you get these things off??


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5d8354988a.jpg

where are you looking for the 26mm wrenches? if you haven't already, check Sears or AutoZone.

in lieu of finding one (and assuming it would fit in the space), then use an adjustable wrench. there was a time when they were my best friend when it came to remove rear oil pressure regulators. :)

Impact gun with PB blaster on the nut. 1" socket should do it; the nut might have some corrosion making it a snug fit. 26mm pretty close to 1". 25.4mm is 1 inch

Remove this nut before the two on the LCA.

Harbor Freight

11 Pc Fully Polished Metric Long Handle Combination Wrench Set

Mine were a beeeyotch to remove with the tension rods out of the car and clamped down. So much so that I bent the mounting plate a bit after keeping PB Blaster on it for a couple days.

Heat is what worked for me. 60 seconds on the nut with a propane torch and those babies came right off with a 18" breaker bar. :icon_tup:

Heat and an impact gun would be your best friends!

Alright guys, I got them off and new bushings on. With the car jacked up, I put a 3' steel pipe over a monkey wrench and managed to pop them loose at the right angle. Its a good way to break a monkey wrench, but it worked for me without any heat.

To those suggesting places like harbor freight: I tried harbor freight, AutoZone, Napa, sears, and northern tool and nobody had a 26mm wrench or socket, which is why I posted here. 1" might fit but with the corrosion it wouldn't for me.

Thanks for the help

Hey - welcome aboard (lots of new -SE owners posting lately...).

There's a trick to getting the right alignment after you replace the tension rod bushings, and the FSM relates counting the number of threads before you remove the old ones and after you install the new ones. This ensures that the distances from the mount to the arm is correct and you haven't affected caster adjustment - just looking at spacing in the wheelwell from front to back isn't enough.

If you didn't change the rear nut (and washer) position and just changed out the bushings and retorqued them to spec, you're probably alright. I replaced mine with Energy Suspension tension rod bushings and used the factor rear nut/washer spacing and it worked just fine. Just be sure to torque the new bushings using the front nut with lots of PB Blaster and to the same spec Right and Left. This ensures they're as close to factory dimensions as possible.

Oh, and I hope you installed some cotter pins in the front holes. Would be a shame to lose the nut for want of a 5 cent pin.

:banghead:

I wish I had read that before I disassembled them... Maybe I have a good pic, but I doubt it. CRAP!!

Glad the OP was able to remove his tho! :icon_tup:

Luckily I had the forethought not to remove the rear nut. Using channel locks to hold the rear nut, I got the front nut back on to roughly the point of the old one, and secured it with a cotter pin. I am good to go now. Time to start the rear bushings...

That should be close enough, and to be honest, more important that they're even on both sides and to the same amount of tension. Sounds like you're good to go.