Hotwiring 82 FB...Help!!
 

This isnt for theft or any illegal purpouses.

I think my ignition switch might be bad.

i have a full charge battery, and when i turn the key on everything is fine, but as soon as i try to start the car the starter clicks and everything dies! I lose power (havnt verf with multimeter) to the whole console.. no lights or anything. If i let it set for a bit it will some times let me try again, but same problem.

The PO did some dumb stuff to the wiring regarding the stereo, but i have no hot wires grounding, and i am not blowing any fuses.


Thanks all. If you do not want to post on here how to hot wire it, please PM me.

Thanks

hotwiring won't help check the battery terminals and where the wire goes into the terminal clean it up really good with warm water and baking soda but don't get the mixture inside the battery it will kill it. try to followup the baking soda with a stiff wire brush everywhere there's a connection at the terminals. this should help you get going again.

Ignition switch
 

Either have extreme corrosion between the battery post and the cables or a discharged or defective battery. Easiest way to eliminate batter is to put in a known good one or take it to a auto parts store ande have it tested. The last part is the wiring down to the starter or the starter brushes bad. But from what you are describing is a voltage problem. rx7doctor

i will bring the batt into work tomarrow (car Dealership service), i will put the midtronics on it and see what it says.

If its bad i will have somebody make a warranty batt test bad so i can get a new one.


one thing though. this batt was good when i got it a lil while ago, but it had somewhat the same symptoms, but instead of the dash lights and everything going dead (fuel pump too) they would flash and you could hear the starter solenoid clacking and all my relays going off and on really quick. only reason why i though it was the ign switch is my 73 beetle used to do this when the switch went bad.


Thanks guys!

The exact same thing happened to me a while ago. The reason was pretty simple. I had been out with the gearbox to change the pilot bearing and some other stuff, and therefore i took the cables of the battery, when i reinstalled the cables i didnt install the ground clamp tight enough. It looked ok, but it wouldent start, and when i turned the key, everything went black.

The sollution could be simpler than you think, try tightening the ground clamp.:)

Check your ground strap also. Not the ground for the battery but the engine ground. should be right above the starter.

I will take a look at the starter and ground strap tonight.

i also had the exact same problem (click, and all). turned out that my battery was just corroded, AND a fuse had gone bad (fuseable links). so, check the links (i found it by accidentially bumping into it). also, go to any auto store and pick up a battery terminal cleaner (it's kinda like a huge ass thimble looking thing with little spikes in it). ask an employee, they will know what you want.

so, check:
1) battery terminals (scratch them clean with said terminal cleaner)
2) fuseable links (take them all out and put back in to re-seat them)

ok messed witht he car in my spare time today. got it turn key lights come on horn and turn signals work. turn key to start and click dead like always.


God the volt meter out and tested the voltage at batt post and it read 12.48 . checked volts at clamps and read same voltage. i got in the car and pressed the horn and it didnt work and my horn is always hot.

So tomarrow i am going to:

1. Check cables to the starter
2.check for blow fuses (flat fuses under dash and fusable links under hood are good), but i havnt been able to find the fusable link under the dash.
3. Check batt terminals for resistance.


Now here is something i didnt mention before i think. i have my head light dummer switch, and my trunk and fuel door popper switches un pluged.

ok i took the batt cables off and they were a lil messed up so i cut the cables and resecured the clamps and everything.


Car works fine now, but all that and i find out i have a seaized motor!!!

that's probably what fixed it, good work

sorry bout the engine tho :-/

hopefully mmo is doing its trick right now.


it might be my fault its seized, but im not sure.

I removed the butterfly valve in the intake when i had the carb off...might have got metal down there. but the car has been sitting not running for 2 months, and when it was running last it was out of wack due to flooding and vacumme leaks.

when i tried cranking it the first time after puting the carb back on it barely turned, so i am unsure at this point.

if you suspect you dropped a nut down the intake and it hasn't actually run since dropping it in but have only cranked it you MIGHT be able to remove it. remove the intake then try turning the engine backwards until the suspected rotor face re-opens in the intake port then using a magnent with a bendable head reach through each intake port and "fish around" for it. Also you can use a compressed air and a blow gun to move the debris around a bit to try to get it out of there and you may have to turn the engine back more to get the object to fall to the side you trying to extract it from. the air trick can help with carbon locked rotors too.

i took out the flapper valve that was hooked to a vacumme solenoid that was in the manifold. i might have got metal shavings down there since i had to drill the screws out that was holding the valve platw in.


won't i have to replace the collant O rings in the manifold if i take it off?