hot engine, ignorant me
 

Ignorant me again. I noticed water leaking out of what I thought was the lower hose this morning as the car was warming up. I actually tightened the hose clams, but it didn't stop the leak. Water was dripping from someplace around the water pump and the air pump onto the exhaust manifold. Damndest thing: the leak stopped by the time i got to work.

I have been noticing coolant smell lately, and the car runs hot now that it's summer. I thought it was okay that it runs between halfway and 3/4 until I did some searches.

What you guys think, is it time for a new water pump or what? I've already flushed the radiator and added a push fan to go with the pull fan. None of that has helped with cooling.

You need a new water pump. Not very expensive, but a bit of work to install. I did this last year on my 83: had to replace all the hoses and radiator too, eventually.

B

I have a simalar problem with my '84 GSL.

The car was running a little bit hot. The Temp guage was just past half way, so I took it and had the rad flushed. There was lots of sludg, no the temp sits just below half way. I figured the temp would drop lower then that. So it could be the water pump?

Oh and sory for hyjacking your thread, figured it would save a reposting of a simalar question.

Not a problem (hijacking the thread). I just wanted reassurance that I am on the right track. Who knows if water leaking by the air pump is an indicator of some catastrophic 12a failure. I didn't want to go to the hassle of replacing the water pump if the car was about to die. I couldn't find any threads about water pumps actually leaking.

Thank you, Bliffle, for the reassurance.

You could try pulling you thermostat or dropping in a lower temp one and see if the added coolant flow affects your temp, although if youve got a leak chances are you'll need at least a new seal for your water pump, - stress the word "least"-

well, sorry for the hijacking too, but i have an 85 gsl, and mine is always reading a little past half way. i have also been hearing that this is no good but have had no problems with it so far, having the car for over three years. i don't have any leaks, but would like to know your ideas.... should i flush the rad again? i had it done about 2 years ago. could it be the termostat, guage, water pump?..... im lost
thanks, jeff

Ya thas me too I am in the same spot as well...

If you've got a Haynes manual, check the section on water pumps were it describes the 'weep hole'. When coolant starts coming out of it you've most likely loosing an internal seal on the pump.

If you have any doubts about your gauge, replace it. I just got an autometer water temp and I love it. My stock gauge had been starting to act up, when I turned on the lights the temp went from 1/4 to 3/4. Now I get a solid reading of 170 that rises to 180 momentarily after hard runs.

Side note: If you want to check that the stock gauge is still working remove the single wire from the stock sender under the oil filter and ground it. Then turn the car to the ON position. The needle should rise quickly and go right off the top past H. Now this will do nothing to test the accuracy but if the gauge completly dies you can at least narrow it down to sender or gauge.

Your temp sensor could be "warn out" too. I'd replace that first.

When replacing the pump be sure to install a new gasket that sits between the pump housing and the block. That gasket does not come with a new pump so you will have to order it separately. You will undoubly disturb that gasket when you replace the pump so you should do it right and replace it with a new one.

Here's the one I'm talking about:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/b-water/gsk1hs2e.jpg

The water pump from Victoria British does come with a gasket. :)

The one I got from Schucks came with A gasket, but I don't think it had the part in the middle. I think Inittab meant there are two gaskets, right?

Being the cheap bastard that I am, I will probably try to make it work using a ton of RVT.

Yes. There's a gasket for pump to housing and one for housing to engine I believe.

Yup, you get both gaskets..... at least from Mazdatrix.

Ah, that's good! Ya pretty much can't go wrong with Mazdatrix. I didn't get my pump from Mazdatrix so alas it did not come with that gasket. I had to make one.

--Bob

My pump came from Mazdatrix.

That business about the weephole is right. That's how we knew the WP was out.

Do yourself a favor and replace the heater hoses too, while you're under the hood. They're a bear to change, and it's easier at home than out beside the highway. Get the hoses that are molded to fit, since the generic hose stock is REALLy hard to install. And, of course , replace the rad hoses, which are easy and can be generic.

B

What was I hearing about some kind of spring inside the lower radiator hose? What is that, and what does it do?

Oh, about the weephole. I have been stranded by water pump failures on other cars, and I find that those weepholes get clogged. Don't always count on that as the only indicator of a water pump starting to go.

I think it's the upper hose but the spring is there to keep the hose from collapsing.

You really shouldn't run without a thermostat. Click here to see why. http://members.ij.net/mrmazda/cfaqtext.html#TSTAT

my temp always used to read about 1/3 but after i installed an insulated cold air intake, (cost me about 18 bucks) the temperature doesn't budge over 1/7 the way up, its great!

might help a few of you out a bit

Well, it definitely needed a new water pump. I got an extra bonus, too, the new pump I got is aluminum. Now my car is cooler and lighter. Only a little cooler, though. I'm getting the radiator serviced on Monday.

I rigged a windshield washer squirter to spray water on the radiator for the hill I like to drive on. It will bring the temp down to the half-way mark when I am at the top of the hill. I'm also going to try some kind of cold air intake. That should work pretty well considering the kind of heat that gets built up in the engine compartment.