Hiya folks.
 

I'm new to the car, new to the site.

I recently came across a 78-79 rex. The lot that is selling it says that they can't get it to start.

The car has a new (crap) paint job - the coils and wires on the poor thing have been painted the same color as the rest of the car. I'm suprised that someone had the forsight to cover the engine with a plastic bag before spraying the car.


Anyway.

They are asking 200 bucks for it. The interior is in good shape (the analog clock even works) and the exterior is very strait - I only had about 10 minutes to look at this car today and will be going back tommorow to see if I can get it started (I'll check to see if the engine is carbon siezed or if this is an electrical or fuel gremlin)

Is the car worth this if the engine is tottaly shot? How much does a rebuilt - crate engine cost? and advice as to what to look at on this car (common trouble spots?)

I've never actually worked on a wankle before - but I feel like I have a pretty solid grasp on the concept - and I know my way around piston engines.

Anyway - thanks for the advice - recommendations in advance.

Patrick

Welcome aboard Pat! Well...it's hard to say if the engine is good or not...for $200, I really don't know how much pep you can get out of it. If you really WANT a rex, I sugges you save up around 800-900 for a decent running one in decent condition. At least you can get it home and work on other problems...who knows what you'll be running into once you get the engine running. Your SA is older than mine. Mine is a 1980 with 146k miles, and it still runs alright. Not perfect, but alright. I'm planning a turbo swap soon, but in your case, I dont' really know what you're planning to do with the car. Is it going to be a daily driver? Stree car? In any case, welcome to the forums. We're always glad to help, so ask questions as often as you like.

As to the engine not starting, there are many possibilities. Since it's carbed, it might need a carb rebuild. Does the engine even crank, or is it completely dead? Could either be the dizzy cap, or maybe the fuel pump if it cranks but doesn't start. Check your plugs, wires, and other items too. That's a start at least...good luck. :bigthumb:

Be sure to check under the rear storage bins for rust (a notoriously bad spot) and all over for that matter.


If it's not rusty and has a good interior it's a good deal (even with a bad motor) I love SAs. I'd like to find one in about that shape myself........




Your best deal on a rebuilt motor is www.rotaryresurrection.com starting price is $1000




--Alex

What Alex said! Go for it bud!

For 200 bones, you can't hardly go wrong. Buy it and we'll help get her running. Might be something as simple as a flooded engine (which takes some special knowledge to fix with a rotary). GO FOR IT!!!!

read the FAQ on this website, their are some things you should now so you don't mess anything up. Since it is getting cold again, it could be something as easy as a stuck choke. I bought my car for $150 bucks and it is lots of fun. Welcome to the forum.

you could part it out if you cant get it running. Easy money. I would personally buy it to fix up if the body is in good shape.

Welcome to the forum.

Well, I wen't down today with some tools to do some peeking about.

Pulled the plugs - they were black as sin and drenched in gasoline (the actually dripped gas)

Seems its flooded - for one thing

I check the points - the were gapped correctly.

Guy who donated the car to the St. Vincent DuPaul lot said he had the engine rebuilt 30k ago.

I was going to check for a blown apex seal while I had the plugs out - but thats when the started decided to fry (big clunking sound and nothing else)

the tack sticks up at 4 grand whenever the car is in the "on" position and drops about a grand everytime I try to start it... (Electrical gremlins abound I'm sure)

So. Here is what I know. The car is getting fuel - but is not igniting it. Or maybe the car was just flooded (Is this bad voodoo to correct on a wankle?)

Any help is apprieciated - I may simply buy this to part it out.


Thanks, Patrick.

On the 79 and 80 RX-7, the tach thing is normal as it is also a volt gauge. Sounds like it needs new plugs and unflooded and with good starter should pop right off. May have carb issues also. Probably needs rebuilt.

How does one unflod the engine on a rotary?

Best way is to take out spark plugs and turn the engine backwards. Let plugs dry and reinstall. Also, an easier though "not as good" is to unplug the fuel pump fuse and crank it over. I suggest holding the gas pedal to the floor to dry it out faster. More air, you know. It will most likely start or even try to start. Then, plug fuse back in and restart.

I'd try starting fluid, and check for spark.

Well, I've gone and done it - I bought it.

Expect to be seeing more of me around here... I'll take pics and post em tommorow.

Awesome deal! I got mine for $500 with doors that needed replacing (rusted around the trim pretty damn badly [cancerous]), also a crappy Maaco paintjob, messed up console (needs new switches), blown apex seal, and numerous other things. I WAS planning on just rebuilding the engine and fixing the car up, but now, I'm not sure if I'll ever really have the time to do it. I may just end up using it as a parts car for another 7. But ya never know.

I'm really anxious to get it up and running, so I must have done something right. :P Hope you don't run into too many problems with it. Good luck!

Question:
Can the engine be carbon "siezed" for lack of a better term and still be turned by hand...

I'm wondering why the starter decided to fry when I cranked the engine.

Also - MMO or ATF in the plug holes to unsieze if this is the case?

Thanks.
Patrick.

deos it have compression?
 

Pat,

Does it have compression when you turn it over? to things about "carbon lock" fully locked = engine won't turn over partially can cause apex seals to "stick" due to carbon fouling, but would lose compression. starter could be original, so who knows about it, but if you can turn it over by hand thats a good sign. get mirror, flashlight and beer toting assistant, remove spark plugs, and useing mirror and light look into leading spark plug holes look for a strip of metal going across at the Apex of the rotor = apex seals if they are broken, nonexistant, or you can see gouges in the face of the rortor as you turn in over then you have problems, if not go to search for useing ATF and clearing carbon lock. good luck

kenn

Here are a few pics - sorry - night time was my first opportunity to shoot the car...
The paint is perfect - any flaws you see are tree droppings...

Starting to feel pretty good about this 200 dollar car.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...e7en/23040.JPG
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...e7en/23042.JPG
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...e7en/23041.JPG

:redface: Keep a spare set of plugs in the glovebox...just a little fyi