Gsl-se probs, please help
 

This morning on the way to work, taking a turn my cars shuts off, I coasted to the side of the road ,waited about 20 mins and she started up, I had to keep her floored, and she slolwy came to life, get outta work she starts right up, 10 mins down the road she did the same, now she's at a parking lot..
My best guess is no fuel
my question is should I here the fuel pump when I first turn the key, I believe I did this morning , not sure, I no in my 12a I heard the pump, but with fuel injection I am not sure.
I am concernrd because I have been driving on EMPTY for a couple of weeks. So I might be a bunch of crud built up...... I need help bad also, If I find my fuel pump is not working what aftermarket fuel pumps can I use, If it works in a second gen N/A can it work in my 85 GSL-SE.. Thanks guys,, All help is appreciatred..
Thank ahead
Cruz

First off the GSL-SE fuel pump does NOT come on when you turn the key to the ACC position. It only comes on while you are cranking the engine over. Now if you can put the key and turn to the ACC position and the fuel pump is indeed running, THEN the only thing that tells it to run is the flapper in the AFM (air flow meter.) Pull the top off the air filter cover, pull out the air filter, there is a flapper in there and moves back and forth. If it is hanging up and not fully returning that would explain your fuel pump running when it's not sposed to be. You should be able to push it in and it will *thunk* back closed.

One year i must have sucked in some water through the filter, once winter came around it froze and i had a bunch of ice that propped it open! My car just died while i was sitting at a light and failed to restart. You can remove the AFM and pull the screws that sandwich it together and clean it up, make sure the floor and roof are clean where the flapper swings. Put it back together and seal it up with some RTV. Done deal!!

To answer your question about the interchangeability of fuels pumps. No the 2nd gen is an in tank pump while the SE is an external one.

After this happens and shuts off you need to attempt to restart and verify if the tachometer is moving while you are cranking. If not then the trailing ignitor is failing and shutting off the power to the fuel pump .

I really appreciate the help guys,,,,Listen I know your gonna call me stupid but for the last week or so I have been running my car without the air filter, and it has been raing like a made man, here in sw florida....
So basically If the AFM is stuck open or not moving properly, will this also keep the car from starting?

If the AFM flap is bent and not returning to the closed position the fuel pump will come on when you turn the key to the on (not start position) and the engine could also flood at that time. Also it would have a very poor idle so I doubt that your flap is bent.

Does the tachometer work properly when the engine is running? If not, then your trailing igniter may be shot. You should have a spare igniter so you can do a substitution test. Get one at the Pick n Pull or on eBay or in the classifieds here on this board (don't pay more than $20).

Check for proper operation of the flap in the AFM.

There is an orphaned connector under the hood near the AFM that will allow you to bypass the AFM to turn the fuel pump on. Read the FSM about it: all you need is a short piece of wire with male spade lugs at each end.

I bet it's the trailing igniter (the one at the top of the distributor), because I had almost exactly the same thing a few weeks ago.

The old axiom goes: all you need for an engine to run is fuel, compression and ignition.

And then come the rankings: most problems are ignition; there are a few clogged fuel lines in old cars from severe climates, sometimes an engine has blown compression from a severe internal failure OR loses compression from walls and seals washed down by excess fuel.

Get a spare igniter (but not for $300 at the mazda dealer!) and swap it in. This is one of the very few substitution tests that I recommend, for the simple reason that it's hard to diagnose otherwise and is beyond the capabilities of most DIY mechanics to test (sometimes the simple static bulb-and-battery test fails to detect the problem).

First thing I would do is get some gas into the tank. It could be that you reached a level low enough for a hole in the pickup tube to become exposed. This would explain why it dies when going around a corner. If you put more gas in, and the problem goes away, then that would pretty much settle it. :)

Good luck man....

PROBLEM SOLVED,
Thanks everyone for your help, it ended up being the fuel pump, I ended buying one at a auto parts store.....
Once again thanks for all the help.
Peace
Cruz