Gsl-Se no start condition.
 

ok guys, heres some story back round for info, this is what ive done and heres the problem.
ok i bought a 85 gsl-se last night for 1100 buck, its been sitting for a year to 2 years since its been ran last, the purpose of it not driving around is cause the previous owner didnt fix the clutch slave cylinder,

-What ive done: so far ive dumped the old gas put new in, replaced the oil and filter, new battery, new slave cylinder, and (new starter it was froze up)

-the problem: i crank on it, it spins free, but i hear a clicking sound as its turning over(its coming from the engine bay) and i cant pin point the sound, also after cranking on it hoping it will fire up i notice the fuel pump dont work, i check the fuse its good as is the rest of the fuses, i mean i wouldnt dobt that maybe the fuel pump is bad to after siting for so long, so i tryed to shoot some starting fluid in the intake to see if she will fire for a seconed, but sadly nothing

is there anything else that i need to do to the car for her to be road worthy and start, after i get a new pump?, i mean shes in great shape, good tires nice paint....etc...

thanks, Josh

Need to check and make sure you have spark to the trailing side or the fuel pump will not work. Have you bypassed this function at the terminals near the AFM to see if the fuel pump comes on?

Also there is a thread by me in the archives regarding when you get a new 7.

Easiest way to test the pump is to do like Doc says. There is a connector near the air filter box. It has a black rubber boot and nothing will be plugged into it. Connect a wire between the terminals in that connector. Now when you turn the key to 'ON', you should hear the fuel pump run. If it doesn't, keep things like they are and test for voltage at the pump. There is a connector under the driver side storage bin. Pull the bin and see if you are getting 12v across that connector. If you are getting power, then it is the pump. If no power, then look into the fuel pump relay (also called "circuit opening relay").

I have seen a lot of these pumps be dead after sitting for long periods.

Good luck.

thanks, i didnt even know about that, if it is the pump is there any websites i can find a new pump at or any place, thanks, oh anything else i need to check since its been sitting that long, thanks again

Check our thread that we have about parts suppliers in the archives and for the 2nd time check the thread that i started regarding what to look for when buying a 7 that is also in the archives. :)

ok so i did the fuel pump bypass thing you guys where talking about, and the fuel pump kicked on, so what do i do from here guys?

Did you check for spark yet? Trailing spark is needed to trigger the injectors. The leading spark is needed for the car to run well.

ok, so i went and bought new coils, put them on and it flodded i wasnt really suprised, so i pulled the plugs and they were of course had fuel on the, i un plugged the fuel pump and turn the motor over to dry out the motor, and i found it had really gooooooood compresion, even though i dont have a tester i i could tell by the way it pushed out the air man i was happy, it had so much better compression than what i had in my fresh 12a streetport motor had, but thats where i stand right now, oh so i went to autozone and was tring to find new coils, and well they didnt have them for the rx7 but they had them for a 64 ford f100, and the guy said they would work, do you guys think they will work i mean they look the same thanks agian for everything guys
Josh

msd blaster 2 coils work fine

ya, i know that, but i dont have the money to get those

Guess what? Your stock coils are probably just fine.

My recommendation is to put your wallet away and slow down. Think about what you need to get ignition, and go from there. Buying new parts only serves to break the bank, compared to using what you've got, which probably works just fine. My experience has been that RX7's sitting for long periods of time need very little to get back up and running.

So, from the top, as long as you've checked trailing ignition (look at the white wire going to the coil mounted toward the FRONT of the car) which is required to feed the ECU a signal on when to fire the injectors, if that doesn't get it running, it must be something else.

As the others have stated, the 'fuel pump shunt' at the AFM should only be used to test the AFM and fuel pump operation - it's not supposed to be run that way, or you could be causing the flooding. It's designed so that when air is coming into the engine via the AFM, it will push that door open, and in doing so, trigger the fuel pump to bring up pressure to the injectors. You established that the fuel pump works when shunted, so disconnect your shunt wire. If the injectors are leaking down (there are only 2), that's a different problem which will lead to flooding. Deal with that later...

Back to ignition; flooding is caused by no ignition, and/or no air. Starting with the plugs - do they look good? If they're good, move on. The Cap and Rotor pass the current from the coils to the plugs, and like clockwork, every spring 1/2 of the RX7Club.com community has a cracked Cap which causes flooding and no-start. Cheap investment, replace the Cap and Rotor and try to start it up. Remove a trailing spark plug and ground the threaded mount against something solid - put a rag over the plug hole and keep some distance between them and have a friend crank the car - are you getting solid spark at the plug gap? If so, then spark isn't your problem.

Those things should keep you busy tonight, so post back with what you've found, and I'm sure the forum will have new suggestions. Good luck!

well i found some stock brand new in the bo sitting on my shelf in my room that i had bought for my 83 12a i put those on, and i started it and it ran for about 5 secs then died and flooded so i took the wire out and did the same thing and i had the same results, ill check how good spark is then the rotor and cap thanks again guys

Josh

ok after letting it dry out last night with some sea foam, i put the plugs back in and she fired right up.......... for about 10seconds then died and flooded, so i dyed out the plugs and cleaned them up to look almost brand new, then i went to check spark, T1had spark for a couple of cranks then stopped sparking,t2 had spark, L1 had spark and so did L2, the cap and rotor were in great shape no cracks or anything the tips on the rotor looked almost brand new, on another note when i changed my coils last night my oil gauge and my volt gauge stopped working, my tach is fine, weird, so what do you guys think this time?

Josh

well i got her to run, let her warm up, she runs alittle ruff but hey i got her to run im happy its time to do a tune, thanks for the help guys