If you use a 12A OMP with rotor housing oil injectors, it will leak every time. Use a GSL-SE front cover if you insist on using an OMP.

To answer your question, a 12A OMP will not fit a GSL-SE front cover. The bolt pattern is different.

What leaks about them?

Two of the lines on this motor go to the rotor housings, the other two go to the intake.

the nikki carb uses the nylon lines with a rubber slip on hose at either end
the GSL-SE uses banjo's at each end

if you use the oil injectors on the GSL-SE inlet manifold you have to make some sort of hybrid hose
- banjo at the manifold and slip on at the 12a OMP


if you use the GSL-SE OMP you have 4 lines,, 2 that fit AOK
but no position on the housings to use the others
so you install blind bolts instead of two of the banjo bolts at the OMP

unless you are tricky
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/1412/pic0904522.jpg
12a timing cover modded for the 12at/GSL-SE/s4 FC type 4 way omp units

So drill and tap a hole? That's easy.

I don't see why I couldn't mod the 12A lines to use the banjos, and run into the intake. I have to go look again, did the two banjos on the intake go into the primary runners? Would make sense, since cruise/idle wouldn't have vacuum to move the oil if it was in there.


The main concern is getting enough oil to the engine. Clearly the 12A OMP does it's job. I wonder if the banjos with the filtered air line help regulate it since the 12A stuff isn't under vacuum, but the SE stuff is.

pretty much,, think of them as emulsion tubes with air jet at top, main ( fuel ) jet in the bottom and the side of the tube is venturi fed with oil and not fuel

the oil squirts also have a one way valve function inbuilt to prevent oil continuing to flow post shut down

for the 12a timing cover to 4 way OMP mod you also have to notch that oil feed gallery to match up with the OMP inlet ( as well as tapping the bolt hole )

So why go through the extra effort of modding for the 4 line OMP on a 12A, if you've got a 12A one you can adapt to the banjos, and only need the 2 in the intake?

because IT WILL LEAK

go ahead and make spaghetti joined bitsa OMP hoses
find out for yourself what we are trying to tell you



i have done it both ways,, sometimes you do what you have to do with parts at hand
the bitsa combo does and will fail or leak

but you have all the parts so as to be using complete lines
but you choose to make bodgy joined up ones?


when the oil is hot and your pushed on rubber boots down at the OMP end will do what ?>

I apologize. Didn't mean to offend man. Just trying to understand. This is all new to me. Apparently there are different pressures with the EFI line setup than with the carb setup which just has lines that push on with rubber.

If I need to convert to the GSL-SE 4 line OMP and block off two of the lines with dummy bolts then that's what I'll do. As long as the engine will live: :O)

any updates on this?

Got the parts motor out and working on the harness. I'm going to make it run on the engine stand before starting into my car.

It looks like a FC throttle body? Doesn't look like the lower half is FC though.

And the guy capped off all kinds of lines and such and even the 5-6ports.

Looks like the engine wiring harness should be pretty easy to install.

I'm working on IDing all the components and if they are there or deleted LOL. Obviously the ACV has been removed. As soon as I get the rest of the wiring harness out I'll be able to cut out the lighting portion of the ignition circuit for bench running, and be able to ID the wiring that goes to the dash on the inside of the car, from the ECU.

Component list based on the FSM Wiring Diagram:
-Clutch Switch B-02 (for cruise, '82 12A already has)
-Control Unit B-03 (Heat Hazard Sensor B-04/Light/Reflief Sol Valve B-08)
-Neutral Switch B-05 (in Trans, my trans doesn't have and there is no detent slot in the shifter rail)
-Water Temp Switch B-06
-Switching Solenoid Valves B-09/B-10 VC SOL
-Switching Solenoid Valves B-11 PRC SOL/B-12 VSV
-Setting Connector B-13
-Vacuum Pressure sensor B-14
-TPS B-15
-Air Temp Sensor B-16
-Water Temp Sensor B-17
-Variable Resistor B-19
-Vacuum Switch B-18 (Think it goes to the the sub sero canister?
-Fail Check Connector B-20
-O2 Sensor Check Connector B-23
-O2 Sensor B-24
-Short Connector Fuel Pump B-25
-Air Flow Meter (MAF) B-26
-Injectors B-30/B-31
-Main Relays B-33
-Circuit Opening Relay B-29 (For fuel pump and MAF)
-Ignition coils/ignitors are on the other harness but trailing Negative goes to the tach and ECM Pin U

----What I need to know, is what the switching solenoid valves do and if they are necessary? It looks like they run the vacuum junk under the hood, but I don't see anything on the Hood really or the schematic that makes them affect the engine when the ACV has been removed.

----This Trottle Body seems to have a large Idle Air Control IAC motor on the back and I see no provision for it on the wiring schematic.

---What does the ECM need the netural switch input for? What changes from neutral to not in the algorithim? What happens when I wire it to be in gear at all times?

---What's the point of the Water Temp Switch B-06..... when there is a temp sensor B-17?

---The "Control Unit" not the ECM, has a speed switch inside it. It is connected to the Heat Hazard Sensor and subsequently the warning light, and the Relief Solenoid Valve .What's the RSV do?



Pictures next of the nasty pile I'm working with.

Pics of engine out.

Keep in mind, ALL I unplugged from the engine was the Alternator/Ignition harness. All the other connectors here have nothing attached. I think they are for the switching solenoid valves.

Supposidly this thing ran, just badly. The large vacuum line that's capped off with the cracked falling off cap could be that culprit.....

Well discovered it's not just a FC throttlebody. It's the whole works. So the LIM I just bought wont work at all with the upper half.

I think I'm going to sell off the computer/wiring. Since I have spots for injectors in the secondary runners, I think I'll get a set of TII injectors, build a LIM and run megasquirt. Like stated before, then when I do put a TII in, I'll be golden. MS3X looks pretty easy and Rotary friendly.