Fusible link replacement
 

The fusible links are shot on my 83. I want to get rid of them in place of something more reliable and easily replaced when needed.

Any wiring diagrams out there to do this?

you are not being lazy enough, the FC style fuses plug right in

Do you still have the fusible link bracket installed?
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damn... didn't know that.

What size fuses does the 1st gen take where the fusible links are presently at?

I replaced mine with Bussmann fuses. There's a writeup on Jim Rothe's website. They fit perfect in place of the original fusible links and are available at all auto parts stores.

They look like this:

https://www.alliedelec.com/images/pr...l/70149827.jpg

AdvancedZone stores will have them in an isle with other fuses and lights.

The amperage of each fusible link is printed on the side of the fusible link block in white lettering. The FC fuses will plug right in if you so desire. You can also swap over to an FC fusible link block as well. Completely your choice. I've always run the original fusible links and have never had an issue. The fusible links don't wear out. They are but a single wire coated in an insulated cloth material. They may look nasty but they are just fine I'm sure.

Oops! My bad I showed the male one.

Direct link (pun) as who knows how long the original content will be around; Mazda Fusible Links

Details:
Fortunately, aftermarket fuse supplier Bussman has a line of modular fusible links that seem to directly plug into the RX-7 fusible link block, and many stores keep them in stock. They also look better and are probably more reliable than the OEM wire links with cloth covers. So go to your local parts store and pick up the following for your model of RX-7:

For a 12a car:
Order two Bussman "FLF-20" fusible links and one "FLF-40."

For a GSL-SE:
Order three Bussman "FLF-20" fusible links, one "FLF-40" and one "FLF-30."

Bussman also offers the FLF-50, which I thought was just a little too much current to replace the highest capacity OEM fusible link. The FLF-40 is actually under-rated for our application, but it would be safer to choose a more conservative approach to wiring protection, so stick with the FLF-40.

Credit and thanks go out to Jim Rothe for all he's done for the rotary community. Please visit his main site if you find time,

I wish I had know about the FC fuses. I blew my Main fusible link and replaced it with a 60amp Maxi fuse and holder from Parts Source. The FC fuse looks much cleaner.

Convert it back and get the clean look. No reason to keep the Maxi fuse in place.