Okey, for those who asked...

Two pics of the aftermarket fuse blocks I bought:

Two pics of the FC fuse block I salvaged... I think I have another somewhere...

BTW,
The 2nd gen block is spoken for, and so is the second one, once I find it.

The aftermaket blocks are gold-plated, solid brass, and quite heavy.

They look to able to take a 2 guage input wire in any of 3 locations, and about a 6 guage output. They use standard LARGE size tube-style fuses (which are available in nice high amp-ratings)
I have an -SE so I need 5 fuses for the stock wiring. I'm going to need at least one more for the stereo/computer set-up I have planned, one for the amps... and probably one more for an alarm...

FYI: You can also use the older 323's if the FC is not available. 323 have 5 five fuses while the FC has 7. I use them on older RX since there the 323's is shorter and easier to hide in my pocket. ;)

If anyone has a FC or 323 fuse box they're willing to part with PM me, I'd be quite grateful. I've got 2 "ghetto rigged" fusable links that I cobbled together with spade terminals and fusable links from Pep Boys, but I'd much rather get the conversion over with during the "spring tuneup".

--matt

Can you post pic's and details on the aftermarket one...

thanks

Look up 4 posts...:D

Painlesswiring.com
Order there Free Catalog and go Nut's!!!
I bought there 7 Wire WeatherProof Fuse Block=3 Hot and 4 Ignition Out.
1 Hot in and 1 Ign in and that's all you will ever need for Future Expansion.
SummitRacing @ $57.98US
sgieldon
steve

I also bought there Fuel Pump Relay Kit and rewired it to my Mallory 110. The kit came with enough wire so I only had to make one splice directly into the Fuel Pump.
No more up and down fuel pressure going to the RB Holley.

Oh yes I remembered I should post an update to my 2nd generation fusebox... Thanks Smnc for the fast shipping and good product. I would like to say that I thought the wiring would be hard but I took a look at it for a minute and it really does just drop in... I ordered a respeed mount for this mod for the fb... Heres some pictures, I really like what it looks like and the idea... I highly recommend doing this...

Looked at an FC fuse block at the junkyard. It has really weird looking fuses in it. Are you sure it is worth the trouble? As in, wouldn't it be better just to put in a fuse block that uses "regular" fuses??

The FC fuse box does use a common fuse, a spade fuse... I know I can find them easily at any auto-store around here... Now fusiable links on the other hand, you should see the blank looks you get when you ask for them...

those fuses can be found at any auto store, or junkyard (I picked up about 6 30A's today from various mazda's and other cars)

2nd gen fuse block
 

I could use it.

I did the conversion last week, and was wondering what would be the proper amperage for the headlights and retractors. I used a 30 amp for each, thought maybe 20's might be more appropriate, but couldn't find any. I don't know if they are made in that size.

Any thoughts or comments?

See my post above, the pics are not showing anymore, but the values are still up!

I hope you like the bracket and I hope it made the install easier for you.

-billy

I do, It fit it nice and snugg, its a good product thanks again!

I was thinking about doing this but for the moment a standard tube fuze works just fine in place of the fuzable links.

Now that this is in the FAQ, I wanted to add this to the thread, and it should finalize any questions regarding the installation, this is a straight copy and paste of another thread...

"In max 7's pictures, he does not make it clear that in addition to the "main" wire, there needs to be a power wire directly from the battery into the other side of the "main" location on the 2nd gen box (this will make sense if you are looking at the fuse box). I personally did not re-use the stock "power" wire because it had a jumper on it to power both of the fusible link boxes, so I just used some of my 8 gauge power wire, and used one of those melt on to fit connectors so as to make a tight connection into the box. Also, if you are like me and get your 2nd gen box as JUST the box (no connectors or wires), you can use the connectors off of the fusable links to go into the bottom of the 2nd gen fuse box (I did not know this, so I bought 12-10 gauge connectors and simply bent them open a bit to fit). however, using the connectrs that I used, I was able to mark on them in permanent marker which wire is which (I = injectors, E = egi comp, etc etc) so when I go to mount the box, I will not need to re-label which wire is which."

happy rotoring!
~Andrew

Sorry to bump an old thread, but came across this on a search and want to add a thing or two.

First of all, I am going the route that SMNC did with the aftermarket fuse block. As a matter of fact, I am using the same stinger block as well.

They do use the modern spade fuses, but let me clarify that these are MAXI size fuses. They are bigger and fatter than the common spade fuses. They also ONLY come in the 20 to 80 amp ratings needed for this mod. They are available at all/any auto parts store.

I have an 85 amp alternator, so my main is an 80 amp. The other two (lights and retractors) are 30 Amps each.

With the Stinger block, I have a fourth fused 8 gauge out. That is used for the 8 gauge line to my audio power amps.

There's more than one way to skin a cat, but this has to be the easiest to find, takes less time, looks best, and costs less than $40.

They're making resettable automotive circuit breakers now. They look/work great and are non-sacrificial, but cost about $25-$30 US each. Times 3 required. Times 5 if an SE.

Sorry no pics, but just covered all this ground this weekend.

It's back from the dead, so I will add back in the pictures.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...9_206_full.jpg
I have since added another one on the other side of the same shock tower. With all the stereo requirements (100amp 3rd gen alternator) rewired the headlights with new relays (high and low) As you can see in this picture, I also had my friend make new top labels with all the new amp fuses and locations.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...9_276_full.jpg

Fusible links are available en mas at Pep Boys. Just look at the HELP isle with all the random help stuff and they have them.

I hope to be doing this upgrade soon I order 2 fuse boxes around christmas and I am still waiting but as soon as i get them I ll install them. I am thinking about using the 2nd 1 as a backup.

I put 2 2nd gen fuse boxes in my 7. I've done alot of upgrades that needed the outputs. (EFan, Upgraded relays and power to the headlights, stereo, etc..) It's always good to have a few extra's, yah never know! I have a friend that runs a sign shop, so he made me up new labels, so all the fuses are labeled properly.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...9_274_full.jpg

good place to start
 

so i have this friend who's wife buys him a 79 rx7. Not in the best of condition drivers side window busted out and no seal for the sun roof. They get it running and my buddies wife decides she is going to mark the battery post with + and - because they cant find the markings on it. One day it wont start so my buddy decides to jump start it and he thinks his wife got the markings backward so he crosses the cables and proceedes to try and jump the car needless to say something went and and he wanted nothing to do with it. So here I am with a 1979 rx7 for free.

SO HERES THE QUESTION

I'm basicaly car retarded.I came across fusible links in the chiltons and was wondering if this might be a good place to start. The problem is I live in hick ville and we dont have a pepboys can any one tell me if i might be on the right track and where i van find these things online?

Search the net for fuseable links. Most places ship.