Full exhaust input...
 

I want to put a full exhaust(header to muffler) on my 84 gsl. I have been looking at racing beats full race exhaust. It eliminates the cat, and supposidly adds 22% more power at 7000 rpm. It cost around $750. Anyone have experience with this setup? Any other suggestions? I am lookin into producing around 160-180 hp on stock ports. The car is going to be used for autocross/drift/DD :). Let me know.

if you are going to be useing it as DD racing beat will be the best its quite... but it also restrists the exhaust..a more free flowing exhaust will gain you more HP... you can build your own exhaust to be more free flowing but it will be much much louder

Sorry, you are not going to achieve that kind of Hp on stock porting. With a good exhaust system and a aftermarket carb with a 12a you will be around 150HP at the flywheel.

So I would probably be better of just swapping in T2 motor for the summer? 150 Hp isnt much... If I did pursue to upgrade the 12a what type of Carb would you guys reccomend for autocross/Drift?

run a modded nikki...... or you can do side draft... holley should be your last choice...(lol im only sayin that caz im mad at mine right now) :)

I cant find any solid info on side draft carbs or modded nikki carbs for sale... Could you post a link to someone who sells them? Thanks.

Side drafts work very well. Mikuni 44PHH or a Dellorto.
150Hp may not sound like much but remember you are starting with 100Hp stock. A 50Hp increase is alot. With a lightened steel flywheel to free up the available Hp you would be surprised what the performance will feel like.

Do some ignition upgrading. Change the gears to 4.44 and you will put a smile on your face.
Of course upgrading the suspension would be recommended also.

It's called the For sale/ Want to buy section. Post up what you are looking for and they will respond. ;)

Sterling modifies Nikki's. 150hp doesn't seem like much but when you apply it to a car that is light like the FB it's a nice little pep

Show me a piston engine that you can change the intake and exhaust on and gain a 50% hp increase without cracking open the engine. By the time you do intake, exhaust, suspension, brakes and gears, you will be driving a whole 'nother beast. The difference will be quite suprising. It will also be quicker and handle better than any stock 2nd gen when set up right. How's 'dem apples.

There's also very little that can compare to the feeling of knowing you turned a few wrenchs, and swapped a few parts, to make a 50% increase in the output of an engine without opening it up.

And if you want to net a couple more HP get the SDJ header and forget about those restrictive RB mufflers.

i disagree with this...... as do alot of racers. This is also a very long and ongoing disagreement light weight flywheel/heavy flywheel IMO a heavy flywheel is the only way to go

and just so we dont confuss ppl (i know you didint say this) a light weight flywheel will NOT incress your HP!!!

as the doctor stated it will free up hp with less rotating mass... and will also rev up faster

down side is it falls out of the revs faster low end makes the car feel like it has less balls...altho most ppl will say they dont notice it

a good place to look at some carbs is www.rotaryshack.com

I think I am going to go with this carb setup.... http://www.rotaryshack.com/Products/...?intNotice=150
What do you guys think? This with a 2.5 inch full exhaust and some iginition upgrades? 160hp maybe? I want to get the 9 pound flywheel from racing beat but it cost a shit load and I only want to spend around $1200 on this car for now.

If you are going to want any kind of driveability on the street I would advise that when you go the flywheel route you choose the steel, not the aluminum one.

keep the stock heavy one :) ..... if you ever add a turbo you will be gald you did... if you look back in the earlyer days of drag racing or even today ppl would try and find the heavest flywheel they could find... to help keep the rpms up and it also helps to slow the motor down nice and smooth......in a turbo app. the heavy flywheel will help reduce turbo lag when shifting gears... a light weight flywheel is good for about nothing if you ask me well unless you make then and sell them for $400+ :)

cheers PaTricK

I was just woundering, Is it possible to run 14's with stock ports?

yes it is... but (yeah i said it) BUT.. it is not ez and your car will not much look like a DD car anymore...

1st way
gutting the car (plasma cutter), chipping out all the sound deading, a big gear 4.77 with lsd, free flowing exhaust, intake,carb,exhaust, ignition, good clutch,high psi oil reg, dot slicks and you are looking at 14's wooot that is NA 14's

2nd way
12a with stock ports and a 2nd gen turbo, mod waste gate, inter cooler, blow thru carb(robert has them) mild gutting 4.44 with lsd, good clutch,high psi oil reg, good tires and you are in the 12's

3rd way
carb/intake, free flowing exhaust, msd with retard, high psi oil reg, 4.44 with lsd, min gutting, good tires, and nitrous 14's maybe 13's

cheers patrick

Is it possible to hit 14 sec 1/4 mile time with out any porting? I am just curious.

lol sorry didnt mean to repost that

Wouldnt it be easier to just swap in a 13b turbo instead of turboing(I dont know if <---- That is a real word) the 12a?

no its ez to turbo the 12a.... 13bt turbo and manifold + adaptor, blow thru carb(rotoryshack) carb hat,intake manifold for carb,IC piping, inter cooler, DP, 3in exhaust, plx wideband, thats about it ez...

GSL-SE oil pump and racingbeat oil pressure reg. 1/3 the cooling is from the oil. if you just turbo it you will flatten the side seals (i believe those are the seals)

lol so i left a few things out... altho zac ran his 12aturbo with no oil mods other then FMOC witch you left off your list :) also there is a trick to get a free oil psi reg