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Front pulley help!
Hey guys/gals I have a quick question for you. I am taking the front cover off my engine and am kind of in a bind. So here is my question...
The bolt that holds the pulley the the engine is stuck on there really good. I have tried soaking it with WD40, used impact wrenches and all other methods...is there any words of advice? The thing is really on there good..help! Thanks Z |
You must keep the flywheel from moving....
I'm having the same issue cause I bought the RB aluminum pulley and I can't get the old one out due the engine cranking along.... even in gear the car will rock and that damn bolt won't come out. Now I have a new pulley as a paper weight! |
I remember reading somewhere that if you have the motor still in the car then you can use a big breaker bar and prop it against the frame, then bump the car over one good time.. Never tried it myself, but it would've saved me some time if it does work..
but if it's out the car then you either need the flywheel stopper from mazdatrix, or rb or somewhere... OR break about 3 rachets after beating on it with a 1/2" impact for 10 minutes... :D rereading that post above though.. that big bolt doesn't have to come out to change the pulleys though. just the 4 10mm bolts if IRC... Have someone hit the brakes. :D |
Hey guys thanks for the replies. The engine has the transmission attached to the engine. I was holding a wrench keeping the e-shaft from moving while a friend uses a breaker bar to try and free the bolt. The wrench that I am holding is not moving.
I personally think that the bolt was over tightned and is just really stuck in there. Unsupa you are correct the engine is off a third gen and they are similar to my pullies. I have to get the front cover off in order to swap my GSL-SE cover onto the third gen engine. And in order to get the front cover off I have to take this bolt off. |
There's two ways of doing it:
1) Engine separate from transmission: Wrap a length of chain around the flywheel, between the flywheel and the back plate. Eventually by turning the engine over, it will lock itself and you can put a big breaker bar on the front. 2) Engine and transmission together: As has been said above, use a socket and breaker bar and lock it against the chassis rail. Get someone to crank the engine, the torque from the starter will undo it. If it still won't come loose, you'll need to get a hot air gun from a parts store, and hold it on the front bolt for 10 minutes or so, repeat above. |
The e-shaft bolt has the equivilent of red Locktite on the threads, from the factory. All the WD-40 will do is lube the bolt head so the socket can slip off of it easier. Even P B Blaster is pretty useless in this case. I've had the flywheel nut, torqued to up to 360 ft. lbs., break loose befoe the e-shaft bolt would.
Get a hand held propane torch and heat up the bolt head, this will soften the thread sealer enough to break the bolt loose. The first motor I had this trouble with, I loaded up and took to the Ford dealer and had a friend break it loose with a 3/4" impact. Even that was a struggle. I can do them at home now with heat and my 1/2" impact. |
In my case I need to get the bolt off aswell because the racing beat pully replaces the factory 2 piece system.
But I'll try the heat |
Originally Posted by trochoid
The e-shaft bolt has the equivilent of red Locktite on the threads, from the factory. All the WD-40 will do is lube the bolt head so the socket can slip off of it easier. Even P B Blaster is pretty useless in this case. I've had the flywheel nut, torqued to up to 360 ft. lbs., break loose befoe the e-shaft bolt would.
Get a hand held propane torch and heat up the bolt head, this will soften the thread sealer enough to break the bolt loose. The first motor I had this trouble with, I loaded up and took to the Ford dealer and had a friend break it loose with a 3/4" impact. Even that was a struggle. I can do them at home now with heat and my 1/2" impact. |
I have tried the 1/2" impact, impact driver, even me and 2 other friends tried loosening it up with a large screwdriver holding the flywheel still and then ttrying to unscrew the bolt. Still no avail and now I have a curved screwdriver. I will try and heat up the bolt and get it out. If that does not work I have a friend that has a larger snap-on impact wrench that might work.
No matter what this bolt is going to come out. In this case the 7 will lose :) I will let you guys know how I got it off. Just strange since when I took the one of my FB 13b it was so much easier(no impact needed). |
There is a tool that they sell at bug shops. It is flywheel holding tool. Costs $10 and is priceless. I have used it on about 6 different engines and just needed a longer bolt for some applications. It worked great for the flywheel on the 12a. The gland nut was a PITA. Where in washington are you?
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sorry here is a pic
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I have a friend that has that tool. We briefly discussed that tool.
I am going to try and get it off tommorow. I found a friend with a 400ft/lb gun. Hopefully that works. |
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