Front 12a Plate/Iron Oil Feed Question
 

Guys i have a 12a front iron... there is a spot just below next to the distributor to tap and thread a hole to feed oil to my turbo...Now the fitting that is plugged in there was plugged from the factory with a brass fitting and was or is pre threaded...But i didn't know that till i drilled out that brass plug...

Now on the turbo models the front iron is used for oil feed to the turbo...

My question to you him/her will i have the same results after I'm done. to build pressure from that spot to feed oil to my turbo?

thanks let me know...

carb or FI set-up is the question:)

Where exactly at?

Yes, I just took it apart haha.

http://i26.tinypic.com/20z33wy.jpg

http://i28.tinypic.com/f2o6q9.jpg

You will get pressure there teddy i have seen two setups on 12a's like this now. I dont know how good of an idea it is but i have seen it twice now!

Gotta think they probably used all the same plates for the 12at and the 12a. What year is the plate!

take a pic of the top of the iron...

right there on top of that i already drilled and taped it and took out the brass fitting that was there placed the manufact. will i get pressure there? Its going to FI turbo wacky you know this already...im building the motor right now player

i guess i will just go talk to the wall then. YOU WILL GET PRESSURE THERE!

just wanna make sure that you havent changed your FI plan coz you cant do it there for carb set-up

lol...you're not talking to a wally yetter, i just want to make sure everybody is on the same page as me is all...so if somebody has the same question later on down the road and need info...they get the right information is all thank you...I will post the pressure coming out of there when the motor cranks over here soon...

Even so i run pre-mix...took out the omp anyways good looking out bro...

more like the turbo oil feed inlet wont clear the dizzy

yeah i figured that...

When I bought my car this is how the oil line was for the S/C using that same spot with the Dizzy

hahaha thats the same thing shit i did...thanks for posting that pic...makes everything clear...thanks bro...

it looks almost like it is a brake fitting my line sucked that i use to have and now I am looking for a new line and fittings but where I live I am having a hard time.

except you're very limited when it comes to changing your timing

agreed wacky, it limits you to about 50% adjustability range. I think i will get a pedistol just to clear up all the hassles

The pedestal option is best. It works with Camdens and I'm setting one up for a turbo install.

Off the ped...you mean where the oil filter is at right?

Correct you can get them as cheap as ten bucks on ebay for the sandwich that is what i have on-top of the bee-hive and it works great 4 ports and all. Think i got it from glow shift!

Looks like they have gone up this one is for a 93+ but the only diffrence would be the nut in the middle dunno if there the same for 79-93 or what. When i got mine it was for 84. Just a option for yah!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-8-O...spagenameZWDVW

do you guys know of anyone who sells a oil drain flange with a AN fitting ? Not for the turbo, but for the motor.

drain flange? what you mean bro....

You just tap the front cover with a bigger diameter fitting than the oil input line.

For those who drilled out the bronze fitting, what did you do all? The fitting size, the drill/tap size, etc. I am highly interested, since I do not want to drill into my RB oil block under the pedestal.

Also, does that tapped segment see prefiltered oil or postfiltered oil?

a threaded banjo fitting/bolt like they use on crotch rocket brake calipers might work out best, and still be able to adjust for timing.

I threaded my front oil cover on the side just next to the omp...worked out really well...I will post a pic when i get home

I like to use the Atkins method of threading the front cover where it kinda goes horizontal below the OMP. There is a relatively flat and thin area that takes a 45° barbed NPT fitting for the oil return of a Camden. I'm sure it would work with a turbo as well, depending on size and location/position etc.

Yeah, I was talking about the drain on the front cover. I didn't want to use the typical push on hose. I wanted to use a AN fitting down there........... but didn't want to pull the front cover off to tap it :(

Here is where i tapped and threaded mines at i think this what jeff20b is talking about...
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_4868.jpg

Is that for the pressure or the drain?

Reason I am asking is the OMP supplies pressure since you are next to it, yet the OMP does not supply it to where you are.

nah that will be my drain coming off the turbo...I'am no longer using the omp...Im I have blocked it off but still retain the gear inside to build up pressure to feed oil to my front stationary gear and turbo...

I heard you can take the whole gear and whatnot out and not suffer any losses.

Then again I do not know where the oil flows through the block. I would do what you say just in case I believe.

I have studied that front iron front and back...i have extra 12a irons here that im thinking about cutting in half to see where all the passage ways are going and where the pressure is coming from

How much of an incline does the return line need to be on? my hole is drilled just below the top bolt hole for the omp on the left of it. My return line does "S" a little bit to clear the manifold but it looks like it is downhill just not over convincingly. i will post a pic as soon as i can

All that matters is it's down hill with as little bends as possible!

I should have said the flat nearly horizontal part on the front cover a couple inches below the OMP. That is where my oil drain is. Tteddy used the stock location, which is a little less friendly, as John has found out, having to do an S shape. Mine is long and curved but all downhill. It's probably a little too long actually. Gotta trim a couple inches.

thanks for the information 20b

So I went ahead last night and bought a 1/4" Brake line and it screwed right into the Brass "Bung" in the block and it fitted right onto the turbo with a couple couplers. I was told this line can handle 100 psi so heres hoping.
As for the Dizzy obstruction I have it so I can retard back to the center of the adjusment screw and I can go right to full advance I just cant retard past center of the adjustment screw.
Let me know what you guys think

yes the gear can be taken off...MannyVidal another forum member here did that or this mod to his front oil cover as well

Hey, it's me the guy who had the same question later on :lol:, good info