few q's - oil light, double clutching, pedal adjustment, etc...
 

ok. first Q. im pretty sure my oil pressure senser got unpluged when i put in my new clutch, thus making the add oil light on all the time.. my q is this. where is the sensor located at?

next. does anybody here speed shift or double clutch. and is speed shifting bad for your gears(shifting without using the clutch). and wat ab out double clutching? any real benefits? and how is it performed?

3. how do i adjust my clutch pedal to engage higher with shoter travel?

lastly. and most important. my idle is rasied about 5-6 hundred rpms. how do i lower it??? i couldnt find the screw but i coulda bee lookin in the wrong spot.

The oil light means you are low on oil, not pressure. Speed/flat shifting eats synchros and gears. Pushrod at the back of the pedal can be adjusted. How did the idle increase by itself? You did something, or have a vacuum leak.

^word..

:AA:

ok. well how do i fix the oil light??

im not low on oil and the light worked fine before i moved the engine to put in my clutch. so i thought something got disconnected. and the idle was raised becuz i cut the sides off an old intake box for more airflow. i put the original box back on and the idle went back down. no vacuum leak that i can think of.

There are 2 electrical plugs on the driver's side of the pil pan. The smaller, rear one is for the cold start assist, the other is the oil level sensor. Start there and trace the wiring.

Double clutching is about as useless as using high octane on a non-turbo rotary. It does nothing, and can even hurt your tranny if done wrong. As far as speed shifting, you got it wrong. There is no type of shifting you don't use the clutch for. Speed shifting or power shifting is when you don't let up on the gas as you shift. Either way, its VERY hard on your gears and synchros and I wouldn't doubt if there is a possiblility of separating the top of the shifter from the pivot. See, there is a rubber isolator that connects the top half of the shifter to the bottom half, and you could possibly separate this if you haul on the shifter hard enough. Not very likely, but a possibility.

As for adjusting the clutch, if this is just so you don't have to fully depress the pedal to shift, forget it. You should always fully depress the clutch pedal whenever you shift, speed shifting or not. Its just not good practice to only push it in half way, and there is too much danger in possibly still having the clutch partialy engaged then shifting and grinding gears. Thats just my opinion though.

correct me if i am wrong, but adjusting the clutch pedal will only give you more or less free play at the top of the pedal right? my understanding is that with a hydraulic cutch, the is no adjustment for when the clutch engages, in relation to what position the pedal is in.

actualy me and a friend are in an argument about this. my clutch lets out quite low, maybe 4 inches from the floor when letting the pedal up, and my friend says this is bad and i should adjust it to let up higher, but i think it lets out low because the clutch is in good shape. i have no problems with grinding, or anything. (except right now because my slave cylinder exploded the other day)

That new slave is gonna make it feel different I would imagine, I have a new clutch in my car (maybe 2500 miles) and it doesnt grab that quick.

As far as double clutching goes all it is used for is to match the engine speed to the gearbox for a smoother shift. The majority of transmissions use syncrhos and that eliminates the need for double clutching. Alot of purists will tell you its the only way to shift a manual. Race gearboxes alot of time wont use synchros for the fact they can squeeze more power out with less chance of the transmission shitting itself on the track and that makes double clutching a necessity.


-Shawn

...and as far as performing it you would:

1 Put the car in 1st gear, release the clutch and accelerate.

2 Depress the clutch pedal to shift and put the car into neutral, release the clutch in neutral.

3 Depress the clutch once more and shift into 2nd gear. The same goes for downshifting except you would put the car say from 3rd into 2nd but release the clutch in neutral and rev the motor slightly to match the RPM's of the motor to the rev's of the gearbox BEFORE putting into 2nd.


Do it right and noone will ever no you are doing it. Do it wrong and look like a stupid ricer. Good luck.


-Shawn

y cant u let the rpms match when the clutch is depressed? thats what i dont undestand. same response with 1 less step.... but maybe im wrong.

The possibility of slipping gears and shortening the life of your clutch. Crunching is also a bad sound from any transmission so we'd all love to avoid that. :D

The shifting you are talking about with no use of a clutch is just merely jamming the shift lever into each gear by barely tapping the clutch to allow the lever to release from its current gear. It is terrible for a transmission and you shouldn't do it. The only time anyone I have ever known or seen do it is if it is in a drag car built for the strip and the transmission is a throw away with a replacement on their trailer. Wait till you have another transmission ready to go in, take your car to the strip, blow the transmission that way, have a little fun, and then spend two to three hours swapping the new one in. :)

You're matching the input shaft revolutions to the revolutions of the eccentric shaft by releasing the clutch in neutral.

1. If you want to learn how to double clutch, watch the movie 'Bullit', with Steve McQueen.

2. If you adjust the top relase point of pedal travel, engagement point is also changed.

you can shift without using the clutch. You just have to learn at what speed the gears are matched at. in 1st run up to about 3k kind of slow and lightly pull on the stick you will feel a point where it wants to come out of gear, pull it out and then try to ease it into 2nd you may have to rev up or down a little to get it in.

there is not a real good reason to do it.

Except when your clutch messes up and won't disengage. Just pray to god that doesn't happen to you when you are driving.

Had the slave cylinder go out on a toyota, crammed it in 1st to get going and then shiffted without the clutch all the way home.

ya. if u look at some of my previous posts, ull see how my slave cyl. basicly exploded on me and i was stranded..... haha. that sucked.

Yeah, that would suck...Except your in norther Indiana where I hear its nice this time of year! ;)

My 85 GSL-SE also lets out very early...I know the SE's had a beefier clutch, but I have wondered if it could be adjusted out more?

My clutch disc exploded, so I didn't stop drove it home and changed the clutch out.

took me and my friend around 8hrs to change my disc a week back... haaha. that was a trip and a half.