FB SA strut swap
 

Does anyone have experience swapping front struts from an FB to an SA and vice versa. I was told the only concern was the camber setting?
I want to swap my Eibach springs and tokico shocks from my FB to my SA and was hoping to simply change the strut assemblies and avoid fighting with spring compressors.
Cheers,

you cant use FB cartridge on a SA as it is too short. you should just install the FB stuff as 1 package and re-do the brake lines.

Brake line thread pitches is the other another problem.

I swapped the complete FB strut assembly into my SA but that also included a full FB brake system swap as well.

ReSpeed sells brake soft lines that will connect your SA hardlines to FB calipers; which would probably be the easiest if you don't want to re-do the brake system.

Putting FB struts in an SA is a piece of cake. I have done it and it was easy.

Drop a large nut down the strut tube (say 1/2 inch thick nut)... then drop your strut in, put the top nut on and tighten. This takes care of the shorter strut problem.

Then you have to drill out the top strut mount slightly for the strut end to go through. Tighten the strut top and you are done.

My SA has been doing fine with cheapo Gabriel replacement struts in it from an FB.

strut swap
 

That was my plan to change the stur assemblies and swap the brakes as well. I am swapping the rear axle as well for the rear discs. I was just curious regarding the camber as someone said the camber setting was different. I don't know how as it is not adjustable. Unless the strut location on the fender varies slightly from Sa to Fb. I guess I'll simply measure the center to center dimension at the top of the struts and compare.
Thanks for the heads up on the brake lines.

I forget about the spacer but SA brake caliper still sucks. the FB strut top wil fit on a SA and RX-4 as well

Yes, you can make the swap with the addition of a spacer (Billy at www.re-speed.com can tell you the exact dimensions needed). But, as stated, the SA brakes just plain suck. Swap the brakes over too for guaranteed happiness. :)



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Unless the FSM for 1980 or 1985 is wrong the camber is different from SA to FB.

The strut tops (black thing that rotates and gets bolted to the car) are not the same SA and FB. My only idea is that when Mazda changed the strut top thay also changed the amount it was offset from center when installed. IE the little black arrow changes camber and caster settings depending on witch way it is orientated.

If you check the FSM for 1980 and 1985 in the steering section it will show pictures.

Edit: use the FB ones they are much better and cheaper to replace.

Just swap the entire FB enchilada including the brake booster but you have to change to pedal assembly to FB, and relocate the clutch master about 1/2" since FB brake booster is larger than SA.

I did the complete upgrade booster upgrade in my light blue RX-3 (prior set-up: FB front suspension/brakes with RESpeed camber plate and GSL rear brake conversion) and it will stop so I can pick up a dime on the road. Im very happy with it and in fact, I'm currently working on the other RX-3. As I said in the old school section, people needs to grow some big cajones :lol::lol:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/DSC04057.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/DSC04152.jpg

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I wouldn't use a nut as a spacer, it may not hit the reinforced ring at the bottom of the strut. A stack of washers would do a better job.

The difference in the strut housings between SA and FB is about a half a degree as far as camber in concerned.

The chassis mounting locations are the same. The camber difference is derived from the "King Pin Inclination" of the strut housings. The strut housings have a built in angle to them. This is called the "king pin inclination".

1980-1985, 12A, KPI = 10 degrees, 44 minutes (or 10.733 degrees)
1984-1985, 13B, KPI = 11 degrees, 20 minutes (or 11.333 degrees)

1980-1985, 12A, Camber = 1 degree, 10 minutes (or 1.166 degrees)
1984-1985, 13B, Camber = 0 degree, 35 minutes (.583 degrees)


If you subtract the 12A KIP from the 13B KIP you end up with .6 degrees. Essentially the same number as the camber for the 84-85 13B cars.

It is not something you are going to be able the feel the difference of on a street car. If it is a race car you are going to be using adjustable camber anyways so the static camber of the housings is not a concern.


-billy

Or buy the exact spacer that Respeed sells and its a better fit and cheap. That's whats in mine.

If your going to swap the whole assembly, remember 79-82 is small bearings, 84-85 is big bearings and 83 has both depending on when it was made.

If your keeping everything easy then stay with the 79 struts and get the spacer then up grade the brakes, or get a 81-82 front assembly from another 7 and bolt on. This way you will always have small bearing all around.
If you go big bearing on the front remember to write it down and place in the glove box so down the road you can remember what those parts are.

Which bearings are you referring to ? the spindle bearings or the bearing at the top of the strut? I have swapped the entire strut from my 81 into my 79.

spindle....strut tops are all the same

not 100 percent true.

when I swapped my 1985 GSL-SE spindles, struts, springs top mount ect to my 1979 i found at liest three different types of strut tops.

1979 used just a basic friction/grease slide pivot thing, the holes in the car are the same from sa and fb though.

in 1983 I noticed a variation of this top used on a FB it was built a bit more robust but same crap, my 1985 strut tops are real bearings and turn very nicely with manual steering.

but like said before the best and easiest way to do it would be to swap the entire fb assembly into the car, change the soft lines and there you go. I wouldnt even mess with the booster to start with, you will have similar brakes to a sa with that booster and MC. but..... mind you the FB master and booster are a better design but then you will need to either cut off the threaded parts of the hard lines and swap them over to the sa lines and flare them again, or transfer the fb hard lines to the car and call it good.

now its time for big brake FC upgrade... and it goes on and on and on.