Fast FB owners, your retrospective please
07-21-11, 12:57 PM
#51
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I've had the stock 12A with a Sterling and RB SP exhaust. Along with the usual RB springs/Tokico blues, Hawks pads and Stainless lines it was a blast to drive.. until it blew up. Then I went to town with an engine build that cost almost as much as the car did, and overhauling the suspension/steering (see sig) and after the headaches of getting it in and running, I now have a streetported 4port 13B with my Sterling and RB exhaust. It drives nicely and is way quieter than dj55b's little monster 12A. He doesn't see the good side of carrying a conversation without having to yell. It probably doesn't make as much power as his either, but I haven't dyno'd it yet, the tune is still rough and it is first and foremost a streetcar. 180 peak RWHP doesn't do me any good if I can only use it in first gear before risking a ticket. The problem is, once I get an idea in my head I see it through, and it costs me in the end. I worry about the next step, as I'm already noticing the line of diminishing returns. 45 series tires means every bump hurts like hell. Get those fenders rolled and raise the car to save the tires. And it looked so good slammed. I was spoiled with the 12A. Nice n quiet except over 4K. Now any touch of the throttle and the noise is there. Don't get me wrong, it's a good noise, but I'm not one to drive around town sounding like I want everyone looking at me. It's probably not as loud outside the car, the RB exhausts rarely are, but still, to me it sounds like it is. I'm contemplating a turbo... to make it quieter. I think I found the line though. If I go further in the power department, I may end up unhappy with the total package. Soooo, I think I'll leave it at this, and worry about the interior and exterior conditions and reliability stuff. I might one day say it's done, but by then I'll want more oomph.
it is interesting though that we have a really similar suspension/tire setup, and i think mine rides really well (its stiffer over big bumps than stock, but smaller bumps its pretty close, and it FEELS great), and i have no tire clearance problems, although its not slammed, i'm also running 225's
i do agree that there is a power level that's really FUN. quite where that is depends on the driver, and where/how you use it. the road we have is the one that the car commercials drive down when they are reading the fine print, in arizona, its a grid with lots of open straight empty roads. i need 120hp, the AZ people need 500...
07-21-11, 03:15 PM
#53
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07-21-11, 03:33 PM
#54
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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i agree on the noise, some is cool, but i'm old, too much is too much.
it is interesting though that we have a really similar suspension/tire setup, and i think mine rides really well (its stiffer over big bumps than stock, but smaller bumps its pretty close, and it FEELS great), and i have no tire clearance problems, although its not slammed, i'm also running 225's
i do agree that there is a power level that's really FUN. quite where that is depends on the driver, and where/how you use it. the road we have is the one that the car commercials drive down when they are reading the fine print, in arizona, its a grid with lots of open straight empty roads. i need 120hp, the AZ people need 500...
it is interesting though that we have a really similar suspension/tire setup, and i think mine rides really well (its stiffer over big bumps than stock, but smaller bumps its pretty close, and it FEELS great), and i have no tire clearance problems, although its not slammed, i'm also running 225's
i do agree that there is a power level that's really FUN. quite where that is depends on the driver, and where/how you use it. the road we have is the one that the car commercials drive down when they are reading the fine print, in arizona, its a grid with lots of open straight empty roads. i need 120hp, the AZ people need 500...
07-21-11, 04:06 PM
#55
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or even better one of these http://www.pmocarb.com/index.htm
its an updated weber, 50mm...
if do another 20B it would be NA for sure
its an updated weber, 50mm...
if do another 20B it would be NA for sure
07-21-11, 04:17 PM
#56
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for the rest of the time, i actually looked at the IMSA SA that mazda brings out, i figure its a good place to start, lol!
07-21-11, 04:51 PM
#57
It does when you build and port your own engine, trans, turbo, manifold etc. Do I need to post my build thread here?
Chryo apex seals with springs- $300.
Teflon coolant seals- $100.
Engine Gasket Set- $100
T04E- Hybrid I built- Less than $50.
Walbro 255 inline fuel pump- $100
Exhaust Pipe- $50
GlassPack- $30
Modded E-Bay Fartcan- $30
Housings, Irons, Intake, Turbo Manifold, Injectors, Wiring Harness- FREE (Spare parts from engines that I have tore down to rebuild for customers, or given to me because I am such a nice guy
) That's all I can think of right now.
Things do get expensive when you drop them off at your local rotary shop, pay them, then pick up your car. The T04E I am running is a .69 AR cold side with a .60 AR hot side. I am going to dyno it again since the latest setup. I am making a good guess that I am over 400 rwhp seeing as how I recently out pulled this car http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2463313626.html
The funny thing is I played with him about three weeks ago. Now he is selling his car? Weird
07-21-11, 06:21 PM
#58
Old [Sch|F]ool
Speaking of Mercedes V8s, CIS, and my friend who wants to see CIS on a rotary, he was responsible for this setup, which made a reliable 300whp:
Well, reliable for the engine, anyway. Transmission life was disturbingly short
07-21-11, 06:25 PM
#59
It does when you build and port your own engine, trans, turbo, manifold etc. Do I need to post my build thread here?
Chryo apex seals with springs- $300.
Teflon coolant seals- $100.
Engine Gasket Set- $100
T04E- Hybrid I built- Less than $50.
Walbro 255 inline fuel pump- $100
Exhaust Pipe- $50
GlassPack- $30
Modded E-Bay Fartcan- $30
Housings, Irons, Intake, Turbo Manifold, Injectors, Wiring Harness- FREE (Spare parts from engines that I have tore down to rebuild for customers, or given to me because I am such a nice guy)
That's all I can think of right now.
Things do get expensive when you drop them off at your local rotary shop, pay them, then pick up your car. The T04E I am running is a .69 AR cold side with a .60 AR hot side. I am going to dyno it again since the latest setup. I am making a good guess that I am over 400 rwhp seeing as how I recently out pulled this car http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2463313626.html
The funny thing is I played with him about three weeks ago. Now he is selling his car? Weird
Chryo apex seals with springs- $300.
Teflon coolant seals- $100.
Engine Gasket Set- $100
T04E- Hybrid I built- Less than $50.
Walbro 255 inline fuel pump- $100
Exhaust Pipe- $50
GlassPack- $30
Modded E-Bay Fartcan- $30
Housings, Irons, Intake, Turbo Manifold, Injectors, Wiring Harness- FREE (Spare parts from engines that I have tore down to rebuild for customers, or given to me because I am such a nice guy
) That's all I can think of right now.
Things do get expensive when you drop them off at your local rotary shop, pay them, then pick up your car. The T04E I am running is a .69 AR cold side with a .60 AR hot side. I am going to dyno it again since the latest setup. I am making a good guess that I am over 400 rwhp seeing as how I recently out pulled this car http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2463313626.html
The funny thing is I played with him about three weeks ago. Now he is selling his car? Weird
lol. I'm hiring you for my next build
. lol
07-21-11, 11:10 PM
#60
1st gens only
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I have a 160 rwhp GSL-SE and a approximately 250hp 5.0 83 GSL Lemons car.
I have about $2200 in the Lemons car Total and bought it non running for $500 with a documented rebuilt motor w cam, pistons etc. Bought the cage and seat off the same guy for another $700. It is seriously fast (we ran out of gearing at 130mph) on the back straight of the last race. The guy we bought it from said he had about $3000 in the car.
I have close to $15,000 in the GSL-SE but its on its second paint job, third suspension setup, 2nd rebuilt motor. Ive had it close to ten years now. I wish I would have went turbo on this last motor. It still isn't that fast. I am planning on going back to a heavier flywheel stockish clutch and putting the 5th & 6th ports back in to make it streetable.
I love the rotary but it is hard to beat the V8 for the money. I would run an EFI 5.0 if I wanted cheap power. The last one we pulled from the junkyard has was running when wrecked and has 92,000 miles. It cost $200 with the computer, harness and all accessories.
We also just sold a 94 Miata with a EFI 5.0. Fast a fun but no room in the engine bay. A royal PITA to do anything and no ground clearance with how the exhaust had to be routed. It was either that or $800 headers.
I have about $2200 in the Lemons car Total and bought it non running for $500 with a documented rebuilt motor w cam, pistons etc. Bought the cage and seat off the same guy for another $700. It is seriously fast (we ran out of gearing at 130mph) on the back straight of the last race. The guy we bought it from said he had about $3000 in the car.
I have close to $15,000 in the GSL-SE but its on its second paint job, third suspension setup, 2nd rebuilt motor. Ive had it close to ten years now. I wish I would have went turbo on this last motor. It still isn't that fast. I am planning on going back to a heavier flywheel stockish clutch and putting the 5th & 6th ports back in to make it streetable.
I love the rotary but it is hard to beat the V8 for the money. I would run an EFI 5.0 if I wanted cheap power. The last one we pulled from the junkyard has was running when wrecked and has 92,000 miles. It cost $200 with the computer, harness and all accessories.
We also just sold a 94 Miata with a EFI 5.0. Fast a fun but no room in the engine bay. A royal PITA to do anything and no ground clearance with how the exhaust had to be routed. It was either that or $800 headers.
07-22-11, 11:30 AM
#61
The only things I had "done" where the cage, the Haltech install,
and the 8.8 rear end (which I got ripped off). Everything else
was built in my own garage, even my exhaust.
The T04E I am running is a .69 AR cold side with a .60 AR hot side. I am going to dyno it again since the latest setup. I am making a good guess that I am over 400 rwhp seeing as how I recently out pulled this car http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2463313626.html
07-22-11, 11:46 AM
#62
Old [Sch|F]ool
07-22-11, 11:49 AM
#63
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Audi used CIS until 1991 or so. (A 1990 Audi 200 10vt is on the stand, and it's Audi's final evolution of CIS) Mercedes used it still further, Motronic controlled CIS up to at least 1995. And I could swear that I've seen somewhere that Porsche was using it even into the OBD-II range. (???)
Speaking of Mercedes V8s, CIS, and my friend who wants to see CIS on a rotary, he was responsible for this setup, which made a reliable 300whp:
Well, reliable for the engine, anyway. Transmission life was disturbingly short
Speaking of Mercedes V8s, CIS, and my friend who wants to see CIS on a rotary, he was responsible for this setup, which made a reliable 300whp:
Well, reliable for the engine, anyway. Transmission life was disturbingly short
the volvo's however are EVERYWHERE, although a huge percentage are automatic, sunroof, non turbo...
07-22-11, 03:37 PM
#64
Nothing of the kind. I know Bryan at RotorSports in Kannapolis NC personally. I know what he would charge to build my same setup.
My turbo does not run out of its effeciency untill 24-25psi. I am currently running 15 psi. To get over the 450hp range, I know that I am going to a GT35/T-70. My friend that I ported his REW powered first gen made 516 rwhp at 20 psi with a GT35R and 8.5 compression. Dyno proven.
My turbo does not run out of its effeciency untill 24-25psi. I am currently running 15 psi. To get over the 450hp range, I know that I am going to a GT35/T-70. My friend that I ported his REW powered first gen made 516 rwhp at 20 psi with a GT35R and 8.5 compression. Dyno proven.
07-22-11, 04:19 PM
#65
Conquering Obstacles
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Bad_83 sounds like your talking about one of my cars !! I'm enjoying your port work just about everyday. I too have been running 15 lbs and I pulled on a t-66 FD a few weeks ago that was running the same 15 lbs.
I've driven a v8 1st gen and i own 3 rotary power 1st gens, turbo and n/a. The rotary 1st gen is light and nimble on the road just as you would expect. The v8 1st gen has a lot of understeer as the suspension wasn't designed for the weight of the v8,and it loses the feel of an import sports car. The turbo 1st gen, I think at any size, is really more than the stock suspension can handle as seems to spin tires more than anything. I'm focusing more on the n/a performance now as you can keep some luxury that you lose with the turbo set-up, like a/c for instance.
The rotary can honestly be done almost as cheap as a piston set-up with both using used parts and rebuilding both engines. The good deals come by far less with rotary parts, but comparing my set-ups both turbo and n/a to my friends piston set-ups both turbo and n/a, I'm usually coming out cheaper than them, as well as faster and more exotic. When you think about it, isn't that what it's all about ?
I've driven a v8 1st gen and i own 3 rotary power 1st gens, turbo and n/a. The rotary 1st gen is light and nimble on the road just as you would expect. The v8 1st gen has a lot of understeer as the suspension wasn't designed for the weight of the v8,and it loses the feel of an import sports car. The turbo 1st gen, I think at any size, is really more than the stock suspension can handle as seems to spin tires more than anything. I'm focusing more on the n/a performance now as you can keep some luxury that you lose with the turbo set-up, like a/c for instance.
The rotary can honestly be done almost as cheap as a piston set-up with both using used parts and rebuilding both engines. The good deals come by far less with rotary parts, but comparing my set-ups both turbo and n/a to my friends piston set-ups both turbo and n/a, I'm usually coming out cheaper than them, as well as faster and more exotic. When you think about it, isn't that what it's all about ?
07-22-11, 06:54 PM
#67
Absolute Power is Awesome
Mine has a NA S5, street ported with Haltech ECU. The car made 170RWHP in Denver, so it's probably close to 200RWHP here in Seattle. I paid to have most of the work done about 10 years ago. I did the tuning but the porting and installation was professionally done. The total job ran over $8k. Took about 4 months to complete, they were working after hours for lower labor rates. Actually, it's really still not done because I keep tweaking the fuel maps. I can't help it.
I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The torque that feels just adequate in a 2800 pound S5 is a genuine push in the back in my 2400 pound base model. It's also pretty nice to have power from 2000RPM all the way up to 8000. The car is realy fast, probably could give my WRX a good run kind of fast.
I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The torque that feels just adequate in a 2800 pound S5 is a genuine push in the back in my 2400 pound base model. It's also pretty nice to have power from 2000RPM all the way up to 8000. The car is realy fast, probably could give my WRX a good run kind of fast.
07-22-11, 07:31 PM
#68
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i agree, S5 engine in a 1st gen would be really fun!
07-22-11, 07:36 PM
#69
Old [Sch|F]ool
But they're getting rarer, if only because every 5000/200/S4/S6 is getting bought up and scrapped out so its engine can be put into a 4000/80/90/etc.
Basically I gotta buy even used parts mail-order...
But the BIG problem with CIS as you can find from OEMs is that it's basically limited to about 300hp. Not TOO much of a problem for the 10vs (all 20vs were EFI) because the exhaust manifold also kinda chokes off about that point, and there aren't any options for fixing that but it's still a limitation, and you know what it's like when you're running close to a limitation... you might find the limit sometimes.
But I worry about what 300hp/400ft-lb will do to my 3100lb AWD car that is geared so close and short that with the new speed limit I run out of 4th gear before I'm flowing with traffic. Well, I worry that it will make the car out-accelerate the Mazda
So it needs to be improved as well!And lately I've been thinking of a BGN style engine. Mid-200s cube V6 running the kind of compression and cam you can get away with in a 2400lb car. With a ratchet shifter on a manual valvebody auto (need to look into availability for 200-4R valvebodies) it would be quite a fun little trip.
07-22-11, 07:49 PM
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Corollary: Never use stainless fasteners on things that thread into steel/iron, and never ever EVER use stainless fasteners on exhaust parts. They will gall, and if you are lucky they will pull the threads out when you remove the fastener. If you are unlucky, they will break.
I hate solder joints because they seem to be the ones to fail - the wires fail next to the joint. I use the heat shrink butt splices that cost $2 each, but then I've been on the same Megasquirt install for about 40,000 miles that involve a whole lot of bouncing around off-road, and have never had an electrical issue. I also use them professionally because I need to do connections that are idiot-proof and also reliable, because comebacks suck.
If you do solder joints, at the very least use a nice stiff heat shrink to cover the joint to maybe do some stress relief. (And use a heat gun, not a lighter)
Lies. But then, some of us have a habit of acquiring parts with an eye towards future projects.
For example, besides the loads of RX-7 parts littering the place (engine parts/whole transmissions/rearend parts mainly), I have
- Miata trans
- VW Syncro rear beam assembly
- MC2 Audi engine (200 Turbo)
- WK Audi engine (5000 Turbo, early)
- Two spare 10v Audi heads
- Spare K24 turbo and a couple spare wastegates
- Complete RD engine (early Golf GTI)
- Rebuilt PG shortblock (Corrado G60 engine, all forged and 8:1)
- Early 1.8t pistons (13:1 in an 8v)
- Misc. intake manifolds for VWs including a rare dual DCOE manifold
PS - Didja know that the Corrado G60's flywheel is *slightly* larger in outside diameter than the RX-7 N/A flywheel, so it can be machined down to accept the Mazda ring gear? And that the clutch disks are near-as-dammit the same size? And that the bellhousing to clutch depths are off in the correct direction for fabbing an adaptor plate? And that the VW engine is almost exactly the same length as a 13B and will just barely fit under the FB hood? And that clean A2 chassis Golfs run $2500+ locally so that there is no chance that I'll ever own one again?
Screw that, it's expensive as all hell. The thing to do is buy a proven MS1 or MS2 box cheap, from someone who is upgrading.
I hate solder joints because they seem to be the ones to fail - the wires fail next to the joint. I use the heat shrink butt splices that cost $2 each, but then I've been on the same Megasquirt install for about 40,000 miles that involve a whole lot of bouncing around off-road, and have never had an electrical issue. I also use them professionally because I need to do connections that are idiot-proof and also reliable, because comebacks suck.
If you do solder joints, at the very least use a nice stiff heat shrink to cover the joint to maybe do some stress relief. (And use a heat gun, not a lighter)
Lies. But then, some of us have a habit of acquiring parts with an eye towards future projects.
For example, besides the loads of RX-7 parts littering the place (engine parts/whole transmissions/rearend parts mainly), I have
- Miata trans
- VW Syncro rear beam assembly
- MC2 Audi engine (200 Turbo)
- WK Audi engine (5000 Turbo, early)
- Two spare 10v Audi heads
- Spare K24 turbo and a couple spare wastegates
- Complete RD engine (early Golf GTI)
- Rebuilt PG shortblock (Corrado G60 engine, all forged and 8:1)
- Early 1.8t pistons (13:1 in an 8v)
- Misc. intake manifolds for VWs including a rare dual DCOE manifold
PS - Didja know that the Corrado G60's flywheel is *slightly* larger in outside diameter than the RX-7 N/A flywheel, so it can be machined down to accept the Mazda ring gear? And that the clutch disks are near-as-dammit the same size? And that the bellhousing to clutch depths are off in the correct direction for fabbing an adaptor plate? And that the VW engine is almost exactly the same length as a 13B and will just barely fit under the FB hood? And that clean A2 chassis Golfs run $2500+ locally so that there is no chance that I'll ever own one again?
Screw that, it's expensive as all hell. The thing to do is buy a proven MS1 or MS2 box cheap, from someone who is upgrading.
07-24-11, 10:17 AM
#71
after 24 years of rotaries, i'm only now starting to care about actual horsepower/torque figures. i've been driving Gen I cars all this time (5 of them) for nothing but the fact that they are fun, RELIABLE cars! i love them. i finally got my first Gen II last year and i still don't have it together yet, but i expect it will be fun, too - only different.
i have nothing against people that swap piston engines in Rx-7s. i, myself, have contemplated it in the last 4 years that my FB has been sitting without an engine, rotting away. however, i can't bring myself to actually do it. i have an APB and a 3SGTE sitting in my garage right now, but i'm insistent on putting them in an Audi (B5 or C4) and another SW20, respectively. i realize some people take that **** seriously, as evidenced by the amount flack i see Enzo getting about his car, but while prefer to keep my Rx-7s rotary, i still respect other peoples' choices. some swaps are actually quite interesting.
i have nothing against people that swap piston engines in Rx-7s. i, myself, have contemplated it in the last 4 years that my FB has been sitting without an engine, rotting away. however, i can't bring myself to actually do it. i have an APB and a 3SGTE sitting in my garage right now, but i'm insistent on putting them in an Audi (B5 or C4) and another SW20, respectively. i realize some people take that **** seriously, as evidenced by the amount flack i see Enzo getting about his car, but while prefer to keep my Rx-7s rotary, i still respect other peoples' choices. some swaps are actually quite interesting.
07-24-11, 12:00 PM
#73
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Regional thing, I guess. Volvos are super rare here, newer Audis aren't. In New England, the older ones apparently grow on trees. I think 90% of the Motorgeek crew is from New England. They talk about things like going ot the junkyard and looking at a row of ten turbo 10vs, picking up a complete S4 drivetrain from a u-pull-it for $300, stuff like that.
But the BIG problem with CIS as you can find from OEMs is that it's basically limited to about 300hp. Not TOO much of a problem for the 10vs (all 20vs were EFI) because the exhaust manifold also kinda chokes off about that point, and there aren't any options for fixing that but it's still a limitation, and you know what it's like when you're running close to a limitation... you might find the limit sometimes.
But the BIG problem with CIS as you can find from OEMs is that it's basically limited to about 300hp. Not TOO much of a problem for the 10vs (all 20vs were EFI) because the exhaust manifold also kinda chokes off about that point, and there aren't any options for fixing that but it's still a limitation, and you know what it's like when you're running close to a limitation... you might find the limit sometimes.
the 300hp limit is totally fine, i really just want something that pegs a boost gauge. my brothers old a4 would do that, 25psi on pump gas!
on a rotary 10psi is fun, and 15psi and the world starts to streak like it does in starwars, my neighbor has a 10ae with a hybrid, and it creeps to 15ish, and he pulls on z06's... so 25psi on a rotary is just useless. but 25psi on a susuki swift or a 240 volvo might be alright....
that's the theory anyways
actually the volvo CIS recipe involves a V8 fuel distributor, so they can do more like 350hp
actually this was really tempting too http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/2500940042.html
07-24-11, 03:07 PM
#74
Old [Sch|F]ool
diabolical1 I know what you mean.... I have zero against piston swaps either, but at the same time I've had at least one rotary powered vehicle at any time since 1998, and it would be very weird to not have that anymore.
But also at the same time, you can't have good N/A power without it being loud, there is no two ways about it, and I'm noticing hearing loss more and more, and it's not something that ever comes back.
Turbo engines are right out, I can't even keep an N/A cool so how will I keep a turbo cool? I also have drivetrain problems enough with N/A torque, turbo torque would just demolish things really fast, and Turbo drivetrains shift even worse than a T5 so that's out too.
Which leaves the swap that dare not speak its name
Fuuuuuuuuug. I mean, okay, I really like driving the car, and I like the engine too, but the engine's got some bad habits that are bad for me financially as well as physical health-ly.
All I want is 200-250hp that will keep cool (or not mind 240deg coolant temps) and won't make me go completely deaf in the process. This equation seems to eliminate rotaries as a variable.
But also at the same time, you can't have good N/A power without it being loud, there is no two ways about it, and I'm noticing hearing loss more and more, and it's not something that ever comes back.
Turbo engines are right out, I can't even keep an N/A cool so how will I keep a turbo cool? I also have drivetrain problems enough with N/A torque, turbo torque would just demolish things really fast, and Turbo drivetrains shift even worse than a T5 so that's out too.
Which leaves the swap that dare not speak its name
Fuuuuuuuuug. I mean, okay, I really like driving the car, and I like the engine too, but the engine's got some bad habits that are bad for me financially as well as physical health-ly.
All I want is 200-250hp that will keep cool (or not mind 240deg coolant temps) and won't make me go completely deaf in the process. This equation seems to eliminate rotaries as a variable.
07-24-11, 03:16 PM
#75
Absolute Power is Awesome
diabolical1 I know what you mean.... I have zero against piston swaps either, but at the same time I've had at least one rotary powered vehicle at any time since 1998, and it would be very weird to not have that anymore.
But also at the same time, you can't have good N/A power without it being loud, there is no two ways about it, and I'm noticing hearing loss more and more, and it's not something that ever comes back.
Turbo engines are right out, I can't even keep an N/A cool so how will I keep a turbo cool? I also have drivetrain problems enough with N/A torque, turbo torque would just demolish things really fast, and Turbo drivetrains shift even worse than a T5 so that's out too.
Which leaves the swap that dare not speak its name
Fuuuuuuuuug. I mean, okay, I really like driving the car, and I like the engine too, but the engine's got some bad habits that are bad for me financially as well as physical health-ly.
All I want is 200-250hp that will keep cool (or not mind 240deg coolant temps) and won't make me go completely deaf in the process. This equation seems to eliminate rotaries as a variable.
But also at the same time, you can't have good N/A power without it being loud, there is no two ways about it, and I'm noticing hearing loss more and more, and it's not something that ever comes back.
Turbo engines are right out, I can't even keep an N/A cool so how will I keep a turbo cool? I also have drivetrain problems enough with N/A torque, turbo torque would just demolish things really fast, and Turbo drivetrains shift even worse than a T5 so that's out too.
Which leaves the swap that dare not speak its name
Fuuuuuuuuug. I mean, okay, I really like driving the car, and I like the engine too, but the engine's got some bad habits that are bad for me financially as well as physical health-ly.
All I want is 200-250hp that will keep cool (or not mind 240deg coolant temps) and won't make me go completely deaf in the process. This equation seems to eliminate rotaries as a variable.
