Energy Suspension Full kit help?
 

I was wondering if any one has a write up on a full energy suspension bushing kit, the full set from respeed. I'm having trouble getting some of these in and some i'm not sure how they go, i've searched but haven't really found any good writeups.

I'm not sure on how to get these on
* Front control arm bushing kit.
* Front sway bar mounting bushing kit.
* Front stay rod bushing kit.
* Rear control arm bushing kit.
* Watts linkage kit.
* Rear sway bar end links.
* Rear sway bar mounting bushing kit.

basically all
=/
im new at this suspension shit

The energy kit replaces the stock bushings with 3 piece replacments.

To start you will need to remove the item in question. Say the front lower control arm. Remove the part one at a time for you first time. This will let you look at the opposite side if you get stuck on re-assembly.

The stock bushing will need to be removed. This part is a pain to do. You can press them out with a press or a vice. You can burn them out (don't breath the smoke). You can drill them out with a number of 1/4" or so holes around the bushing. You can drill them out with a hole saw. In any method make sure not to damage the stock metal part.

Once the old bushing is removed completely and the bore is clean you will slide the new bushings from both sides. The metal sleeves will press into the center hole.

The stay rod bushings are a bit different. These will slide on and off.

-billy

Burning out the old bushings is your best bet. I used a plumbing torch to light them then just let them drip molten rubber into a tin. Don't breathe it in.

Once the old bushings are removed, grease up the new ones. Push in one side then the other. I used a shop press, but you can also use a vise to press the metal sleeve into the center.

alright that helps thanks

i took a day at school trying to cut one out with a razor blade then a die grinder haha

When I replaced the bushings in my rear suspension (where the 4-link [or whatever they're called, 4-link is an easy way to describe them] bars attach to the axle) I used the bolts with a few extra washers as my press. Just use 2 ratchets and go for it. It is pretty easy.

I put some tips up here- http://sterlingmetalworks.com/bymc/index.php?topic=44.0 after I replaced all my bushings with the kit from RE-Speed. This can be an arduous and lengthy task if anything doesn't go as planned, so take your time, have a 6-pack handy and don't plan to drive the car for a couple days.

It can also be a good idea to have an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel handy. You may have to cut the original bolts, then replace them with new ones...

well i couldn't get the sway bar in because the hole needs to be retapped

but anyways

so what do i need to do to get the control arm bolt out its stuck =/

To remove the rusted in bushings from the control arm links, take a drill with a 1/8" bit. Drill right where the rubber meets the steel. Now, on a low speed setting, the bit should walk around the inside of the steel. The bit will get traction from contact with the steel and should power itself around inside the link end. Then clean up the left over rubber with a flap wheel and sanding roll.

Make sure the cutoff wheel is the thin style.

You have read to replace only half the watts links (not sure which ones yet) and only rear lower links? Also do not replace the rear sway bar mounts if you have a rear sway bar because of binding issues poly bushings will cause in the rear, right? Just FYI from what I have read from previous threads.

I'm still not sold on that. I replaced all the bushings with poly as well as putting on the racing beat springs and swaybars and never had a binding issue.

Same here. When I did the kit on the widebody, I replaced every single bushing. But then I also have an adjustable rear sway bar and shocks. I suspect the binding problem some have is due to them tightening down the suspension while the body is still in the air and the suspension is hanging. That in effect preloads the bushings and may lead to the binding problems.

Hm, this is interesting to read as I have been reading about the possible issues with full replacement. Initially I was going to purchase the full kit but then I decided the re-speed kit plus front sway bar mount bushings and sway bar end links for the rear and now I'm not sure at all. I just want to get it right the first time but maybe this area of replacement parts require trial and error per individual cases? All insight on this is appreciated hopefully answers the OP post as well. Thanks!

It kind of depends on the rest of your suspension. If you have old stock sagging springs and worn out dampers you'll probably have something to worry about since the body will be able to pitch and roll much more, but if your suspension is new or upgraded you won't need to worry. I've also put full poly bushings in my suspension and it is so far one of my favorite upgrades. Made a huge difference in ride quality, noise and most importantly, response/feedback. Car is much more stable at high speeds. Also the bushings area 3 piece design, with the two outer pieces being softer than the center piece, allowing them to deflect a little more to reduce binding.

k now we have it up on a lift at school for the watts link and control arms

the control arm bolt that slides through wasn't coming out
do you have to hit it with a punch and cuss a little or is there a magic word you tell it =]

Use your smoke wrench to heat the bolt up a bit.

Doesn't make much difference whether the suspension is loaded or not. The bushings and bolts have had over 20 years to rust in place and get stubborn. Spray with PB Blaster, let soak for a day or so, then put the nut back on the bolt and hammer loose. For the wattsd link, work on the center stud, once that's off the other 2 can be worked on off the car. Don't get too carried away with the wats link pivot arm, I have bent them before.

I have had some bolts that were so stubborn the only way I could get them out was with an air hammer/chisel. The lower control bushings in the front tend to be the worst since the steel sleeve is a larger diameter than the hole which the bolt passes through.

I did my whole suspension with the Energy suspension full kit. I replaced every bushing... no problems... i still have stock springs and sway bars though. planning on getting the re speed front sway bar and other parts... make sure the weight of the vehicle is on the tires when you torque down the watts links otherwise it might sit a little crooked. i think this might have happened to my car since i have no lift and torgued them with the vehicle on jackstands on the frame.. either that or a worn out 24 year old spring....

P.S. this bushing kit made a WORLD of difference in handling!! so much tighter and responsive!!

I used the drill method and then a wire wheel to clean out the insides of the watts link ends.. worked great just like trochoid explained:)

So it seems its half and half depending on your other suspension components, such as softer ride or aftermarket shocks/springs for a stiffer ride, to go with a full kit or that minus half watts links, sway bar mounts, and upper control links.

OP, are you currently installing a full kit? Let us know how your car performs when youre finished :icon_tup:

Basically comes down to this. Everybody's setup is different and everyone drives and feels it differently.

The rear upper arms are short and angled and the watts linkage pivots off center. It is easy to mentally visualize the binding possibilities with that set up.

Heavily lowered cars are already sitting with the suspension in bind or close to the bind at a static ride height. The idea behind stock upper arm bushings and half the watts kit is to allow the rear end a bit more compliance to lessen the effects of the bad geometry.

Think about it this way. The rear end goes up in bump on one side (as in cornering). The short/angled upper arm verses long lower arm will tend to rotate the axle. The watts linkage center pivot is trying to keep the rear end from rotating. Now add the fact the watts pivot point is off center from the roll axis and you have some real funky stuff going on.

When cornering the body will roll to the outside of the corner. Once the body rolls enough to get the suspension in a bind it suddenly stops. The energy has to go somewhere and in this case it transfers through the tires. That sudden change of energy overpowers the tires grip and you have "snap oversteer"

Although we never ran rear sway bars on the road race cars. Many swear by them for AutoX. The rear sway can help in some setups since it's job is to control the chassis roll. The sway bar slows down the weight transfer as well as limits the roll. In many cases the sway bar is simply keeping the suspension from binding due to not allowing the chassis to roll enough to get there - OR - slowing down the roll to a point where the driver has already made another directional change.

Great thread - thanks everyone.

Stu Aull
80GS
Stock Suspension (so far...)
Alaska

It has always been my opinion that the key to eliminating the snap oversteer problem is to control the roll. Great swaybars and stiffer springs, along with proper ride height, have all added to the stability of my car.

This is where you are usually better off cutting the old bolt out. I used a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to slice through the bolt on both sides of the bushing on the inside of the control arm. The metal sleeve that the bolt runs through has rusted to the bolt. I wasted three days trying to "persuade" them to come out, then finally bought the angle grinder and finished it in about 15 minutes. Good luck.. :)

i love reading billy's posts :D

this thread rox