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Driveshaft question on my TII swap.
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
(Post 8020551)
Restrictors are also used on ball bearing turbos,since they require far less oil to do the job.
Sorry about the blurry pic,MattG.....that is a pic of an old photo. I used a short section of steel pipe that is threaded into the front cover.Its basically just gas/water pipe,so its cheap and the taper-thread tap is also common and cheap.The actual drain is the stock TII unit with the lower flange cut off,then I used a section of correct grade rubber hose to bridge the gap between my front cover and the shortened TII pipe. That is my old setup,when I was running an S4.My current S5 wont allow that area for drainage since the electic OMP is in the way.I simply extended the system I had,to reach to the front corner of the cover,and then redrilled and tapped another hole up there. I have dropped off my front cover to get the oil line tap(that felt great). I have also completed my left side harness. My tranny mount (I used the center bracket with the long bolt from the Tii tranny plus the rubber center from the SE). I drilled though the center rubber piece from theSE right in the center of the two bolts and the SE tranny bracket. I left the Tii bracket on the tranny and then placed the rubber piece and the the bracket. This should work right being the tranny's are the same in length, with the shifter a little longer (I will be cutting into the body to make a little room). With this said the measurement below should fit perfect right: "Well I haven't done much of any work today, but I did order the driveshaft. I ordered it from Thrash Driveshaft Specialists. They have been very easy to work with and in my opinion they know what they are doing. Here is really all you need to know to order a new driveshaft. 1) Length from transmission seal to differential pinion flange. For the GSL-SE it is 42-1/16" (and remember this is the same regardless whether you have a TII tranny or SE tranny and of course a 13b). 2) Number of teeth on the transmission yoke. The TII has 25 teeth (FYI SE has 22). 3) Differential pinion flange bolt circle diameter. For the SE this value is 3.5" (I measured 3-17/32" but their book value was 3.500")" |
my FB TII progress.
Oh, before i forget. I have been reading on replacing the Oil Pressure Regulator from the SE to the Tii or shimming the one in the rear(in with the oil pan) and the front(the SE front cover). From the technical dialog i was a litlle confused. Cant i just use both from the stock Tii motor?
Next is the merger of the Tii with the FB wiring at the computer on the passenger floor board. Got the this done: Originally Posted by steve84GS TII  In a nutshell...... There is no need to use any wiring on the FB to operate the FC engine. If you purchase and install an FC underhood fusebox and main ECU relay,there wont be a single connection between the 1G chassis and the 2G engine/ECU. Obviously,the big right side FC harness is plug and play between the ECU and engine.If your gonna delete all the smog gear and solenoids,youll need to cut,trim,re-lay or otherwise slim down that big harness.Its very important that none of the cut/unused wires, short or touch each other,as you can fry the ECU that way.However you do it is up to you,I wont recommend any particular method since I only deal in fully smog legal type swaps where the harness is unmolested. The left side harness is best made from scratch using the #1 yellow ECU gangplug and the plugs that go directly into the coils,CAS,main relay and fuel pump relay/resistor.You just use the factory service manual to determine which wires you can depin from the gangplug,and which wires are needed for engine operation.......I just did one last night for a S4 N/A,and it works out to this....... Of the 24 wires on the left side gang plug...... Eight wires are absolutely needed..... 4 to CAS.....red...blue...white...green....bundled and sheilded. 3 to trailing coil.....blue/yellow...blue/red...brown/yellow 1 to leading coil.....green/yellow Five are needed for correct smog operation and legality,but are not needed for the engine to run..... 1 to heat hazard switch(to control split air shutoff)....black/yellow 1 to cold operation water temp switch....brown 1 to air bypass solenoid....red/yellow 1 to port air solenoid....brown/red 1 to 5th gear switch(for split air operation)....black/blue Four are needed if you want to be able to read trouble codes from the......uh,prehistoric...... S4 control system..... 1 to initial set connector.....orange 3 to trouble code plug(for LED indicators)....yellow...yellow/black....yellow/red The 7 remaining wires can be de-pinned and forgotten about since they dont operate anything that youll ever need to worry about on the 1G. |
update and humor :( & ;)
This is not for the faint hearted people. I thought that I had all the info needed but its the little things that are driving me crazy...for example wiring in the main relay, under the hood fuse block into the fb harness on the drivers side(just found the pics). In addition to all of this I am reading that you need a + wire going to the ecu, in some post. I was then informed that these cars have a ECU and a CPU. ?tf.( i didnt know that. I know i can get it done, the lingo/dialog is above my head. I plan to use a Walbro 255 and read in several threads that you SHOULD use a fuel pressure regulator with this set up or you will do damage to the injectors. My budget is super tight and the fuel pump was a part of the budget, not the regulator though. Correct me if i am wrong but i will need a fuel line splitter to run one line to my prim and one to the secondaries right? Where can i get these items at a low price. |
sounds like you are off to a good start! any pics of the progress?
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
(Post 9061701)
sounds like you are off to a good start! any pics of the progress?
Update: I got my front cover gasket, waterpump gasket and during my parts removal to get the motor prepped for the front cover switch, i noticed that my waterpump housing(TII) is messed up. One of the bolts which holds the thermostat/neck to the housing is stripped and it looks like some tried to tap it and rethread.. There is no clearance for a nut. Anyone got a spare TII waterpump Housing? |
i got the car up and running for about 3hrs. then poof..still down. will be up soon though.
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Originally Posted by OriGiNaL TyPe R
(Post 9049779)
Here is really all you need to know to order a new driveshaft.
1) Length from transmission seal to differential pinion flange. For the GSL-SE it is 42-1/16" (and remember this is the same regardless whether you have a TII tranny or SE tranny and of course a 13b). 2) Number of teeth on the transmission yoke. The TII has 25 teeth (FYI SE has 22). 3) Differential pinion flange bolt circle diameter. For the SE this value is 3.5" (I measured 3-17/32" but their book value was 3.500")" |
Originally Posted by nofords
(Post 10386290)
Or you can use a stock GSL-SE shaft with a S4 Auto slip yoke and RDL u-joints. No custom shaft needed.
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Originally Posted by nofords
(Post 10386290)
Or you can use a stock GSL-SE shaft with a S4 Auto slip yoke and RDL u-joints. No custom shaft needed.
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