dizzy problems
 

crap, now it's doing it again, it seems like the trailing part of the rotor is hitting the post on the under side of the dizzy cap: the one from the trailing coil. i can clearly see a notch on the post from something hitting it. what could cause this? thanks

There are only 2 things that come to mind.
The dist bushings being worn out.
The dist cap is not being properly positioned on the base of the dist. If you still have the dust/water shieding on the dist make sure that when you secure the cap that it does not move when you push it side to side. If it does the cap is not sitting correctly on the base.

Improperly installed dizzy cap/rotor

the cap seems properly seated. how much play in the bearings would cause a problem?

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It wouldn't take much, I wouldn't think. In any case, I'd start searching for a replacement dizzy at your local boneyard, if only for testing purposes because if the cap is on correctly, the bushings are certainly the culprit.

Good thing the trailing ignition is essentially useless. :rlaugh:

what if i were to bend the post out of the way a little bit just for now? some people dont even use the trailing at all right?

some people dont even use the trailing at all right?

this would be true if you were using the DLIDFIS setup. If not, then you would need it.

oh crap, if the bushings are worn out could this cause a high pitched squeel at a certain rpm? and also a vibration at high rpm?

No.

If the wear on the inside of the cap is only on one side, you're not fitting it and the dust shield correctly. Even when fittted correctly, it doesn't much of a bump to knock it out of position.

ok, but if its not fitted properly could that cause the squeel and vibration? today i even took an old cap and ground off a little bit of the trailing post and it still squeeled and shook.

do you think this could be an internal problem?

First place to check for squealing is the belts, then the bearings of the rotating parts that mount to the engine, wp, alt and ps. Vibrations can be hard to trace down. If it's vibrating at idle, make sure the tune is correct. If it's full tuned and vibrates free reving, standing still, do a compression check.

Worst case, squealing and vibration can be a roasted rotor or stationary gear bearing. Drain and filter the oil and look for brass flakes, cut the oil filter apart and do the same.

its only from 5300rpm-6500rpm.

and the odd thing is it stoped when i put the new cap and rotor on but came back a few days later

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i wish i had the money to get a rebuilt 12a because this one has 174000 miles and i want to supercharge it but if i do i know it wont last long.

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Bump rule is 24 hours. You're questions have been answered. Have you checked the advice given?

do i need any kind of special compression tester? or can i just use a regular one? are they expensive? thanks

i'm going to change the oil today and see what i find.

didn't find any flakes today, what do you mean by roasted rotor?

anyone have anymore advice?

Be sure that the 2 10mm bolts are not missing; these are bolted up on the base plate.