Disable the stock oil injection?!?!
 

Ok im nto sure exactly what this is but i was just goofin around surfin the net and happened to come across this?! check out step one, the second step one :boink:
then the red text at the end.. does this make any sence to anyone?

just if u wanted here is the url wher ei got this from..

http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bun...y/mazda13b.htm



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VP4SkyDoc@aol.com (Dave Leonard) wrote to the RV-List:
I'll make comparisons to installing a rebuilt Lyc. To put in a Mazda in an RV, you could expect to do the following:
1) find and buy a used engine Time - availability is comparable but Mazda=$400-$800 You fill in $$$ for the Lyc.

2) Have the engine torn down and inspected and rebuilt. Mazda $3000 for mostly new parts. Lyc = $$$$$ Like with the Lyc, some will feel comfortable doing this themselves. There is a great video available for the Rotary showing this process (as I'm sure there is for the Lyc too).

We are the same so far except for cost. Has it been easy? Now here are the extra things you must do for the Mazda conversion, all detailed in Tracy Crooks conversion manual...

1) Disable the stock oil injection - a simple process that takes about an hour as part of the rebuild (either by you or someone else).

2) Older engines will require an easy mod to one of the coolant gaskets.

3) Now, to give yourself 10-20 extra HP, you could have the intake ported for several hundred $, but we are still way under what you have spent for the overhauled Lyc and it hasn't been any more difficult at all. How does this affect reliability? Well, ported cars putting out 350 hp with no oil injection mod are known to blow apex seals. However, at less than 230 hp in the aircraft with the oil mod it is a non factor IMHO, but no one can say for sure.

4) You will have to modify or rebuild your engine mount (yup, this is a big pain). However, one builder just installed an engine using an adapter that fit directly on the stock dynafocal. I am hoping that the machinist who made it will make some more of these sub-mounts.

[When I emailed him about this, Dave replied:]
That installation was done by a builder in Florida. It is not flying yet, but W&B turned out perfect. I talked to the machinist who said he would do the same mount for me for about $200. However, it requires a custom (extra short) PSRU (which he can also supply) if you want to use the stock cowl.

I have decided to use one of the more tested PSRU's (which are a little longer) and have the mount re-built. An RV-4 builder here (also doing a Rotary conversion) has is mount re built and it looks really nice and wasn't that hard.

5) You will have to supply fuel, spark and air. Tracy Crook makes an engine controller which supplies electronic ignition based on the stock crank angle sensor. It also provides cockpit adjustable electronic fuel injection. There are two completely independent computers which can each run the two injectors and two spark plugs in each combustion chamber. There is also a third limp home mode. The whole system costs under a $1000. There will soon also be a monitor showing Fuel flow (solving the EFI fuel flow problem) Total fuel, MPG, RPM, and MAP. Try finding that for a Lyc!!! Supplying air is a little tougher. Tracy supplies instructions on making an intake from stock parts, and a couple of vendors are supplying bolt on manifolds.

6) Exhaust needs to be made custom (so far), a couple of suppliers do this for RV's as well.

7) Cooling is a hassle. This is where time and weight will be gained or lost. I haven't heard of anyone who never got it to work. But at least you wont have to do any baffling. You also get the advantages of liquid cooling (no shock cooling, less cooling drag possible) and disadvantage (another system to fail) and still stay at the weight/CG of the designed engine.

So, what's the bottom line? IMHO An easily modified uncareful installation will produce about 160 hp. Now be careful with the installation, tune the intake and exhaust, add a pressure phlem, and maybe some street porting and get up to 210 hp. The installation will weigh a little more or less than the Lycs (remember, the 320 and 360 are only about 10# apart). There should be plenty of space in the cowl of an RV6 or 8 to add turbocharging and get around 250 hp. (The stock turbo in the car is rated at 285hp.)

Yup, it takes a little extra effort and time, but in the end you will spend less for a considerably better product. Some guys have gone to a lot more effort than this to install a 200 hp IO-360 in their RV-6(A). Is it worth it? Is it worth it to build an RV instead of buying that Katanya, or Cirrus, or Cessna? I think so. Just like building the RV, it doesn't take an engineering degree or engine expertise (I have never done more than change my oil), just a little extra love.. :-)

Someone asked about justification for 2000+ TBO. Theoretical? Yes. But not like someone calculated it out on a CAD machine. One engine in a gyro is at 1700 SMOH and going strong. Tracy Crook ran his first engine for almost 900 hrs and had essentially no measurable wear, let alone reduction in hp, compression or increase in EGT's. He also burned no measurable oil between oil changes (every 50 hrs). Ever heard of a Lyc that did that? A few other engines are in the 500 hr range (and counting) with similar results. The oil injection mod is critical. If anyone owns an RX-7 that you want to keep around for 3-4 hundred thousand miles, consider making this mod in your car.

Someone else mentioned resale value. Good point. Personally, I would much rather have a proven rotary installation over a Lyc any day. But I am the minority and will be for quite some time. My RV is a life long project/investment. I don't plan to sell for several reasons (liability, loss of my baby, never want to be this consumed with a hobby again etc..) But if you think there is a good possibility you will someday sell, looks like you are stuck with a Lycosaur.

Now, the ramblings you have just heard are those of a bookworm who is really just beginning his project (gads). Please don't take my word for any of this. I have found my engine research and tinkering to be as rewarding as working on my RV. (talk to me again in a couple years ;-). The research really isn't that hard. The only reason that I did it was because I was off in Japan for six months with nothing else to do. But now I have seen the light and it goes hmmmmmmmmm instead of boing boing boing.


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I'm a post Whore

Airplane guys just pre-mix instead of using the OMP. Pre-mix is better for the engine and is one less thing to fail. Being failure-safe is kinda important with aircraft :)

So what is the easiest way to disable the OMP? I'm either gonna disable the OMP and premix or install one of these gizmos.

And :gay:

All you do is remove the pump and make a block off plate. I made the plate out of aluminium and used RTV to seal it.

Mine just died one day. :)

One thing you can do is take it off and put it back on with a big ol' glob of silicone... the oil enters the OMP through a small passage that looks very easy to accidentally block.

And its really nice all the funny looks you get when you are pouring that 2 cycle oil into the gas tank before you despense the fuel :) i love it LOL

For that alone, it's worth it! ;)

Do you carry a funnel in your car? I usually dump MMO in at the gas station and it's a PITA with that little trap-door thingy in the way.

I have a question. How can you tell if your OMP is dead? Something noticable while driving or should I be checking this thing often anyway. And if it dies is it going to tear up your motor quickly or is it one of the deals where in the end it just ends up shortening apex seal life.

ok, so you just disable/remove/"clog up" the OMP and you can throw some 2 stroke oil into your gas tank with the gass... correct? how much oil do you put in there?? is there a simple ratio or just watever?

I use 100:1 on my FB. Only cause the crap ass Weber kit I have isn't set up for the metering oil pump. :mad:

hmmm...
 

I have an 89 Turbo II that I am running PREMIX in. I know its not a first gen...but just like you guys I do not trust my OMP.

I put in some PREMIX oil last night and it is feeling great and running fine. (Also added the Octane Booster).

Filling is great. 2-stoke TC-W3 Oil into the tank, then the Octane booster, then 92 Octane Fuel. mmmmmm...

I don't know for sure but it almost feels smoother running premix. (I cleaned the air filter and plugs too...gotta love tune ups)..


Premix rules!

uhh..ok. but how much oil to gas ratio do you put in?

Roughly 1 oz of two stroke to 1 gal of gas.

No one listens to me :(

hmmm...
 

I have been told 1 litre per tank. (16:1 gas:oil)

But because I still have my OMP working I do half a litre per tank

No funnel just carefully dump it in there SLOWLY, been doing it for a long long time :)

Re: hmmm...
 

I have always dumped damn near the whole quart per tank (Usually 3/4 a quart for the entire fill up About 15 gallons in my vert). Cant hurt anything and never has yet...

Re: hmmm...
 

That's way too much. The correct ratio for street driving is around 125:1 give or take a bit.

And about the looks you get when filling up... it's even better when it says outboard 2-stroke on the bottle. :D

HOLY CRAP
 

HOLY CRAP your right....and I got an %87 in Math 30...YARG....


I put in half a litre to a full tank (58 Litres), so that is about 116:1 of Outboard 2-stroke...LOL

so have we all settled on an agreeable gas to oil ratio? and the oil to use?

We agree on the amount but I think we need to bicker about which brand 2-stroke oil to use. ;) and then we could get into the merits of Pettit's Protek over Polaris 2 Cycle jetski oil. Or, of course, anyone interested could just hit that button at the top right of this page that says "search" and find out about all that stuff......

we COULD do that but jeeze technology is movign so fast now that stuff could be outdated and sumone might have come up wiht a totally new idea better and greater we must all kwno about so we just gotta be saf, ya know :D

good point!