A couple of clutch questions
 

First off I searched and learned a lot of interesting things, but I still have a few questions being the clutch newbie that I am.
My clutch is on its way out and I am looking at possible replacements. I looked at racing beat's, and ACT's, and then found this stock replacement made by Exedy on ebay.
First off does anybody have any experience with this vendor and/or clutch?
Also, is a release bearing the same thing as a throw-out bearing? Sorry if that is a stupid question but again I have no clue about clutches and I want to make sure I get everything that I need to replace.
I really don't need anything more than stock performance as this is strictly a street car and my daily driver.
If anyone has any other suggestions or preferences as to which clutch I should select I would be happy to hear them.
Thanks in advance,
John

Exedy is one of the major suppliers for oem replacement clutches, yes, it's a good stock replacement. I usually prefer to upgrade to a Stage 1, but that can nearly double the cost from some vendors. If the pic is correct in what comes with the kit, that's the wrong pilot bearing and you will need the pilot bearing seal too. You may need to order those seperate from any of the rotary specific sites. Good price on the clutch package though.

Release bearing and throw out bearing is the same thing.

Thanks for the fast reply. What is an example of a good Stage 1 kit?
John

Junk the stage 1 kit idea. thats how many people become dissatisfied with their order. They have no clue on what it means. Things I always look for are:

1. type of clutch lining plus regular or puck clutches
2. pressure plate: dual or single diapram or in other words, how many lbs of pressure. Typically, a single will give you roughly 1500 lbs where as a dual can be anywhere from 2500 lbs and up.

Here is Doc's checklist when performing the clutch replacement.
Clutch kit, which you already know what it includes plus as trochoid has mentioned which is the pilot seal.

My extras are the following.

Rear main engine seal. Going to have easy access when you remove the trans.
Pull back the rubber boot on the clutch slave cylinder. If it is wet underneath or there is rust get a replacement.
Inspect the front bearing housing on the front of the trans when you remove it. If there is any evidence of gear oil seepage then replace the gasket and front seal. I personally would replace them anyways.
Replace the extension housing seal on the trans where the driveshaft goes in.
Get a new transmission mount. Usually because oil gets all over it and it deteriorates the rubber. When you drop the crossmember the trans mount is usually split.
Remember that this new clutch is probably going to last you over 50k, I usually get over 100k because I don't use the car as a launcher.:)
That means that the trans seals, the clutch slave and the trans mount are going to have to last that much longer. Since you have it all apart it is very easy to replace.
Also recommend that you have the flywheel resurfaced. Not only will there be hot spots and material from the old clutch lining on it but when it is resurfaced the step(proper distance between the mounting of the pressure plate and the surface of the flywheel) is put back to specs. This allows for proper engagement of the new disc. You don't have to have it done but it will greatly increase the life of the new lining.
Then go into the archives and pull up my old thread entitled, "Flywheel stopper." There are some helpfull tips on reinstalltion of the trans and how to keep the flywheel from turning when you take that big ass 54mm or 2 1/8 inch nut off.
Forgot to add. If it is within your budget get the clutch master also.
If the slave and master are very old and you install this new clutch kit. The renewed pressure of the pressure plate fingers may cause the hydraulics to fail shortly afterwards if they are very worn.

Also a good time to service the trans fluid with synthetic.

Thanks doc. That list is a good place for me to start. I have recently rebuilt both the master and slave cylinders. Do you think it is still a good idea to replace both of them? I would be changing the clutch while the engine is getting rebuild so is there any other recommendations of things for me to do while the whole long block is out. Thanks again.
John

Act
 

I am currently runing a 6 puck race disc, and a high pressure, pressure plate in my 82GS. As long as you know how to clutch properly, this is a very streetable setup with a lightweight flywheel. You don't acctualy need to replace the flywheel; however, I would recommend it.