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Hello all, I've just bought an FB with a 12a in it, everything seems great besides a known water pump to housing gasket leak. I'm going to order the part fairly soon, but my question is whether or not I can drive this car safely (without harming it) while I wait for the part to arrive. The previous owner said he was just careful to keep the coolant level up while driving , but if the gasket "gets worse" do I risk damaging my car or will I be fine just keeping an eye on the coolant? Thanks for the help in advance!
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I wouldn't do it if I was you as it might overheat but if it had to be driven
keep an eye on the coolant and on the temp guage, soon as it starts to rise and get hot pull over and shut the car off and let it cool down. but seeing as you only just got the car I wouldn't risk it. |
Agreed - I would park it unless its just a weeping leak. Cooling is _everything_ to rotaries. Screw with it at your peril!
If you plan to swap in the new gasket yourself (easy), bear in mind that ONE of the mount bolts has a SPACER (washer) on it, and failure to re-use that will guarantee another leak. Have you checked the play on the pump pulley? Since new water pumps can be had on ebay for all of $35+ it might be worth a new one for all the trouble you are going thru. And a new belt too. 'luck Stu Aull 80GS Alaska |
Thanks for the advice guys! It is a pretty small leak, hardly noticeable but it IS there. I think I'll drive it conservatively and definitely keep an eye on the coolant until I gather the necessary parts. Much appreciated all!
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Didn't you have another post on this exact topic (Water Pump Gasket)? Maybe keep those replies together for simplicity and for others following along next time...
On driving with known coolant leaks - we've all done it out of necessity, but I don't anymore. The SA/FB make good 2nd or 3rd cars, but rarely as primary vehicles these days. If it's your only means of transportation then have at it and be cautious - drive slowly, keep it below 3k RPM to avoid high water pumping volume, and watch the temp gauge like a hawk. Otherwise, I'd be driving another vehicle until I could get the leak fixed. Rotary engines derive their cooling from these 3 major sources: 1) 'adiabatic cooling' or direct heating of the air around the engine and transmission which sucks heat away, 2) Oil Cooler - air to fluid cooler to pull heat out of the internal engine components, and 3) Antifreeze Coolant - air to fluid cooler, which relies on the raised boiling point of the water after antifreeze is added in the correct ratio to pull heat out of the engine. Each of the 3 methods accounts for roughly 33%, so if one system is failing or leaking - you're losing up to 33% of your cooling capacity - which is serious. A rotary engine will not abide overheating - and even one serious overheat can result in engine damage that will bring about a loss of compression and other mechanical damage. They're durable, but this is one area that shouldn't be ignored. |
Originally Posted by LongDuck
Didn't you have another post on this exact topic (Water Pump Gasket)? Maybe keep those replies together for simplicity and for others following along next time... On driving with known coolant leaks - we've all done it out of necessity, but I don't anymore. The SA/FB make good 2nd or 3rd cars, but rarely as primary vehicles these days. If it's your only means of transportation then have at it and be cautious - drive slowly, keep it below 3k RPM to avoid high water pumping volume, and watch the temp gauge like a hawk. Otherwise, I'd be driving another vehicle until I could get the leak fixed. Rotary engines derive their cooling from these 3 major sources: 1) 'adiabatic cooling' or direct heating of the air around the engine and transmission which sucks heat away, 2) Oil Cooler - air to fluid cooler to pull heat out of the internal engine components, and 3) Antifreeze Coolant - air to fluid cooler, which relies on the raised boiling point of the water after antifreeze is added in the correct ratio to pull heat out of the engine. Each of the 3 methods accounts for roughly 33%, so if one system is failing or leaking - you're losing up to 33% of your cooling capacity - which is serious. A rotary engine will not abide overheating - and even one serious overheat can result in engine damage that will bring about a loss of compression and other mechanical damage. They're durable, but this is one area that shouldn't be ignored.
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Originally Posted by 7aull
Agreed - I would park it unless its just a weeping leak. Cooling is _everything_ to rotaries. Screw with it at your peril! If you plan to swap in the new gasket yourself (easy), bear in mind that ONE of the mount bolts has a SPACER (washer) on it, and failure to re-use that will guarantee another leak. Have you checked the play on the pump pulley? Since new water pumps can be had on ebay for all of $35+ it might be worth a new one for all the trouble you are going thru. And a new belt too. 'luck Stu Aull 80GS Alaska
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Did I miss something or do you really need to know where the water pump is located ???
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Originally Posted by heynoman
Did I miss something or do you really need to know where the water pump is located ???
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1 Attachment(s)
Not a problem there is a lot of sarcasm on here just wasn't sure . The water pump is in front just under the alternator .Then the housings is the big chunk that the alternator is connected to if you still have the factory pump it's black and made of cast iron . The one in the picture is aluminum and has a pulley for two belts yours will have the same pulley .
Attachment 566906 |
Ah no worries, I understand. Thank you for the help, I'm surprised it wasn't more obvious to me haha... I guess that means I'll be removing the alternator to access it?
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You will have to at least loosen the alternator up since it also acts as the tensioner for the belts .To remove the water pump housings there are 4 nuts that have to be removed then whole housing can be slid forward . Like 7aull stated don't loose the small washer when removing the water pump housing .
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Cool that's very helpful, thanks a lot!
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Since you're new to RX-7, One word of advise when changing out any part. Don't over tighten the nuts when reinstalling stuff. The bolts that hold the water pump are long and easy to over torque and break. The water pump is an easy job and good for a beginner. Take pics before removing stuff and bag/label bolts/nuts if you think you can't remember where they go back on. Keep common bolts/nuts/belts with their part (ex: alternator).
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One trick that I use even after 30 years of working on these cars is to grab a section of flat cardboard, and then draw an outline of the interface of the part you're removing with a black magic marker. Then, take a pencil or screwdriver and punch holes in the cardboard where the bolts and fasteners go. As you remove a bolt, stick it through the hole you made in the cardboard corresponding to the drawing. If there's a nut instead, I use zip ties or a nail and stick the washer or nut onto the board using the 'pin'. When you go to reassemble the parts, it's much easier to see where they go, and get the right length bolt where it belongs. This also helps ensure you don't forget to install a fastener, because it will still be stuck on your board.
Over the years, I have built a fastener "Board" for every major assembly on the car, making it very easy to just pull out the right board and get to work, sticking the fasteners where they go as parts come off the car. Some of them have gotten greasy over the years, but for a beginner mechanic - this could be a real time/effort saver. Water Pump replacement is fairly straight forward with the right tools and taking your time. Just recognize that you'll probably need to remove the belts on every pulley driven assembly, the fan shroud, the fan, and then you can get to what you need. Take it easy, P.S. - we're both in PHX, so if you're wanting someone to look over your shoulder while you do the work, I'll bring my own beer! |
Originally Posted by LongDuck
(Post 11977006)
One trick that I use even after 30 years of working on these cars is to grab a section of flat cardboard, and then draw an outline of the interface of the part you're removing with a black magic marker. Then, take a pencil or screwdriver and punch holes in the cardboard where the bolts and fasteners go. As you remove a bolt, stick it through the hole you made in the cardboard corresponding to the drawing. If there's a nut instead, I use zip ties or a nail and stick the washer or nut onto the board using the 'pin'. When you go to reassemble the parts, it's much easier to see where they go, and get the right length bolt where it belongs. This also helps ensure you don't forget to install a fastener, because it will still be stuck on your board.
Over the years, I have built a fastener "Board" for every major assembly on the car, making it very easy to just pull out the right board and get to work, sticking the fasteners where they go as parts come off the car. Some of them have gotten greasy over the years, but for a beginner mechanic - this could be a real time/effort saver. Water Pump replacement is fairly straight forward with the right tools and taking your time. Just recognize that you'll probably need to remove the belts on every pulley driven assembly, the fan shroud, the fan, and then you can get to what you need. Take it easy, P.S. - we're both in PHX, so if you're wanting someone to look over your shoulder while you do the work, I'll bring my own beer! Stu Aull 80GS Alaska |
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