duplicate post, ignore....
 

I have a coolant leak from the left side of my engine, where the coolant comes out of the engine block and goes into the oil cooler(I guess that's the direction of the flow). Anyway, the coolant sprays from the front if the joint of the coolant line and the engine block. here are pics:

http://www.caldwellphoto.com/jimmy/coolant.html

The pic of the actual site of the leak is the last pic on the page(only 5 pics).

What is the best way to handle this? I thought about removing the pipe and tapping it out and threading in a new pipe, but maybe it would be better to see if a radiator shop could braze it.

What would you do?
Thanks, Jimmy

P.S.
There are more pics of the car on index.html if you want to see. I'm still in the process of rebuilding it, I hope to have it on the road in 2 weeks, and painted by the end of Feb.

I was going to suggest this
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11490

But your out pipe has a T which means it is an 83+ engine and this part does not work on it.

You may have to replace the rear plate to fix this. I have been here 2+ years and never seen this problem reported. Hopefully some one has had to fix this before and will chime in.

JB Weld. That should hold it for a while.

jb weld is rated to 500 deg, what is the normal operating temp of the engine. I had never given any thought to this until now.

More than likely that part will be around the operating water temperature, which is 180-190 (or whatever your thermostat happens to be). JB Weld should work like a champ, until it gets brittle or whatnot. I think that T is just press-fit in the engine, but I couldn't pull one of mine out with the engine out of the car. Depending on how mad-tyte your welding skillz are, you may be able to TIG/braze/whatever (is that rear housing aluminum? It's heavier than shit, so I doubt it, but I thought I'd ask) and have a better fix than JB Weld.

I think I'll try the jb weld for now.

Thanks.