Clutch system won't bleed.
 

Got a new clutch master and slave on after having both go bad on me. Now I've got a problem, the system won't bleed properly.

We sat there for an hour today trying to bleed it through the bleed screw and got nothing. Whatsmore the clutch master actually sounds like it's sucking air.

Car is an '84 GSL

I don't know what kinda other details to give. If you got any suggestions just throw em out. So far I've been following the haynes manual to bleed the clutch system and it ain't working.

Here's what you need to do different from the haynes - loosen the bleeder and pump the pedal till the fluid has very little or no bubbles, then do what the haynes says.

I just changed my clutch master yesterday. took a while but did eventually bleed it. Sometimes it takes a while. Feel the hard line while pumping clutch, do you feel any pressure?

yeah, I feel the pressure.

Unfortunatly there seems to be no end to the air. We can connect a hose to the bleeder screw and bleed the system pretty much dry, then fill it up again, and still have air after trying to bleed for 20 minutes.

I'm slightly baffled... But then I am a newb and this is my first car :p

You know there is probably away to get your air out without buying anything, but I always believe in doing things smarted-faster so I can be doing something else.

To do my clutch and brake bleeding I use a Mity Vac, which cost about $30. It will suck your fluid threw the bleeder screws.

http://www.mityvac.com/images/animation.gif


Thing I like most is that I do not have to a 2nd person to bleed brakes.


John

the first thing you want to do is 'bench prime the master' fill up the res. with break fluid hold one finger over the hardline fitting hole and pump, install the master in the car full of fluid. connect the hardline, bolt up the slave and rubber hose. open the bleeder. take a piece of fish tank hose and place it over the bleeder and take a plastic cup fill about 1/4 with break fluid, place the other end of the fish tank hose into the plastic cup, now pump the clutch pedal. the clear fish tank hose allows you to see any air bubbles passing through, no air bubbles tighten the bleeder and check the pedals presure if it's good fill the res. and remove the clear hose. the same for the breaks too.. for one person to do it.

I made one of these to bleed clutch and brake hydraulics. Easy to make too, and is better than any other method or tool Ive ever tried, including the mityvac pump.

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

Do you risk sucking back in 'dirty' brake fluid if you don't close the bleeder screw prior to releasing the pedal?


John

lol... So I go to take the master off to bench prime and guess what. The studs that hold the cylinder onto the firewall are now spinning freely with the nuts as I try to take em off.

So I'm really kinda confused now. Guess I'll take a cloth with some vice grips and hold the bottem one, dunno what I'll do with the top.

Assuming I can get it all off I'd like to take a look at the unit to make sure it's functioning properly. Anything I can look for to tell if it's working or not?

Thanks for the suggestions guys - I'm sure I'll get everything working now.

-Jeff

no risk of dirty fluid if everything is new,,,right? new master, new slave ,new fluid .
when you get the master out, use some locktite whatever colour, and apply some on the stud threads to keep the studs glued in the master. that would suck, big time having the studs turning.
sometimes the rubber hose has reached the end and should be replaced,it's rubber. and sometimes the hardline just doesn't seal all the way, make sure it's tight in the master.

if the master is new , it should be okay just prime it first.

There's actually a good deal of crud lining the sides of the reservoir... Kinda baffles me since the parts are new and have been refilled using new fluid.

Okay, now you know, buy a new hose and a new hardline. the rubber hose is the problem. they get old, crack, swell. a new hose makes a difference in how the pedal feels and a steel braided hose is day and night difference.

I did think those flakes were rather black and rubbery looking.

Thanks for the insight, it's much appreciated.