Clutch or Synchros?
 

I posted in the new member section, no hits yet.
​​​​​​​I am having issues with my trans not finding 1st gear, Hard to go from a stop sign in 2nd gear. Reverse grinds everytime even with the clutch all the way to the floor, Which makes me think it needs a clutch. Prev Owner said it needed a clutch. I am wondering about a rebuild on the gear box, the parts are cheap and it takes half the labor to do the clutch anyways. Any thoughts are appreciated?

First start by removing the trans and inspecting what you have. Replacing the clutch is relatively cheap. It will be evident once the trans is down. Might as well replace the clutch master/slave if you don't know the last time they where changed. It could still be the trans if the syncros are out.

i posted in the other thread

If hard to get back into 1st or reverse, it's not your clutch, it's your pilot bearing which is seized and/or dragging on the trans i put shaft. Test this by turning he engine off and then shifting into 1st and reverse. If the problem only exists with the engine running, it's the pilot bearing - a $10 part with the rubber seal.

Pilot Bearing it is!
 

Thanks all, Longduck, you are right, it only happens with the engine running, It shifts easily when shut down, but not when running. Sounds like I may be putting in a new clutch and pilot bearing.

There have been many methods discussed pertaining to pilot bearing removal. The best way to remove the pilot bearing is with the Mazda pilot bearing removal tool. Literally takes about 20 seconds including setup. It will be the best special service tool that you buy. I would not personally use any other method for removing the pilot bearing. I've tried several and none worked as well as the Mazda tool.

Thanks Ill try to get one of those. Do you happen to know the P/N for that? Im sure I could google around and find it but thatd be easier.

Mazdatrix has it, along with the special head specific to our flywheel dimensions. You can alsomget the pilot bearing and grease seal from them while you're at it. Having the right tool is critical for this job, as I've done it The Hard Way (grinding it out) and will never do that again.

Know that you want the new needle bearing greased but not over greased. Too much grease will cause hydraulic pressure in the bearing when you try to install the shaft and you'll have a VERY hard time mating the engine to the trans. I usually grab some plumbing pliers and use these to draw the bosses close enough to get some bolts in and then tighten it down. Too much grease will then exit the bearing and pollute your clutch engagement surface.

Other parts to consider replacing; Throw Out Bearing (*highly recommended), Trans Front Cover (*recommended if high miles, a scored or damaged cover will bind the throw out bearing...), Trans Front Seal (*if doing the cover), and a new clutch disk (*might as well while you have it all apart).

Thats the plan, New clutch and pressure plate throwout and pilot bearings. I am assuming I should have the flywheel resurfaced, which is looking like I'll need to get a flywheel stopper, and a flywheel nut socket?

I replaced just about everything in the clutch assembly//...... If I had to do it all over again, I would prolly buy one of the custom flywheels offered by Racing Beat... My mechanic charged me $80 just to grind (rte-surface) my old fly-wheel.. That seems to be about 1/3 the cost of a custom high perf. model.... these little engines need all the help they can get.... to lighten the load they have to carry. there are some drawbacks to a 'lightened' flywheel... but I believe the good outweighs the bad.

You will want to use an impact gun and a 54mm socket to remove the flywheel nut. If you don't have air or a nice electric impact gun then yes, you'll need a flywheel stopper. I have a nice Sunex brand 54mm socket that works great!

Okay, Thanks to all for the advice. I have made a list of everything to do while im in there
Parts: Pilot Bearing and Seal
​​​New Clutch and Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing and Retainer
New Master and Slave Cylinders
Steel Braid Clutch hose
RB Aluminum Flywheel and Counterweight
Bench Rebuild of the Gearbox (2nd and 3rd and even 4th grind sometime.) Im only doing all this work once, until I swap the motor out with my build, and then my fresh motor will have a fresh drivetrain behind it.
Toolwise I need to acquire the Flywheel nut socket, a Larger torque wrench, the pilot bearing puller and installer, and a flywheel stopper. Very glad to know what the problem is, the car will probably be down for awhile, while I buy tools and parts one by one.
Figuring on about $1000 for that list, tools and all.
​​​​

You mentioned the RB Aluminum Flywheel and Counterweight - so I'll weigh in on that (pun); like you, I figured while I had the engine out doing clutch work, it was far easier to do a new flywheel anyway. I went with the RB Aluminum Flywheel with the auto trans Counterweight needed to balance it all, and here are my thoughts.

Where I live (Sonoran desert) it's REALLY flat about 95% of the places I drive. For the other 5%, I don't have to do hill starts using the parking brake as I'm usually just cruising up hills at speed. The nature of the aluminum flywheel is that you're going from something like 30lbs on a stock -SE flywheel to about 12lbs in aluminum. This rotating mass is a drag on the engine being able to rev quickly, but serves a purpose of making the idle much smoother, making starting off in 1st or reverse gear smoother, and generally making the car more driveable for the general public. That said, the aluminum flywheel will rev quickly - and by moderating the clutch pedal, you can bump up the RPM enough when you're slipping it in 1st that your technique will compensate for not having the rotating mass to help you out. You will definitely be able to feel faster acceleration in your butt-dyno, and the car will be a little quicker through the gears; it may NOT be faster in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile, as getting off the line is best served through as much rotating mass and torque as you can muster - and a light flywheel kills some of that. It will NOT add any horsepower (obviously, but I point this out) - and the benefit you get is that the power is going from the engine to the drivetrain to turn the wheels, instead of using some of that energy to spin up a heavier flywheel. The car will shift faster, as the RPM drops off more quickly to rev-match the next gear. Downshifting is also faster by 'blipping' the throttle to bump RPM so your downshift goes smoothly.

The car will be more fun to drive for an enthusiast. The car will NOT be more fun for your wife/girlfriend to drive. Expect that your idle will suck.

http://i65.tinypic.com/2n0sc9d.jpg

I'd definitely do it again, however. The added spiritedness and being able to feel more of the engine working to get you through the gears is worth it. The ease with which you can rev-match is the biggest benefit to me. I don't have to do hill-starts, though - and you being in California, that may be a factor (*and why Mazdatrix sells a lot of light STEEL flywheels as a compromise). With all the parts you mention - you're doing it right. Your choice of Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk should compliment whatever flywheel you get. I went with the Exedy Stage1 because I want smooth engagement for street driving. I don't street race and I don't drag race.

Thanks for the input. I see your point about the aluminum, and yeah I live in the hills out here, while I don't usually have to do hill starts, It depends where I'm going. Steel will still have the benefits of the aluminum, while still working well for starts and stops. Although, I like the removable friction surface of the aluminum flywheel. Its going to be mostly a street car, maybe see the strip once or twice to pull a time. Im thinking I might go with the aluminum. I don't intend to be doing many/any hill starts. When/If I do, I'll burnout up the hill! :bigthumb:
​​​​​​​
Huge thanks to all that came out to help. I kind of figured on doing the whole 9 yards, but great to have confirmation.