Clutch not fully disengaging?
 

Pretty sure my clutch isnt always 100% disengaging any idea on possible causes?

master or slave is bad? needs rebled?

^one or the other possibly failing. but regardless which one, replace both as the other might not be far behind. how is it acting that leads u to this conclusion?

+1 pm replacing master and slave. If you only replace one, it's a sure bet you'll be replacing the other in a couple months. Check your fluid level and look for leaks around both parts, the line, and back behind the pedal. I've had one leak back there and it did a number on the carpet. They can go bad without leaking sometimes too... the seal inside fails allowing fluid to bypass the piston.

Well to start with the car is 100% track driven so keep in mind all the syptoms are either on/off trailer or in a racing enviroment. Its got 2 syptoms that make me think the clutch isnt disengaging fully, 1) At best its a 50/50 shot (latley more like 75/25) if I can get it in reverse without having to force it and getting the expected gear crunch, 2) Occasionally (once again more frequently latley) on a 4-3 downshift it'll feel like once again Im forcing it in but due to car noise cant hear if I actully am or not (clutch fully pressed in, not trying to heel-toe as I suck at it).

Your symptoms still sound like the beginning stages of hydraulic failure. Whether on the track or the street, it still causes the same issues. Also, what gear oil are you using? Might be time for a change or an upgrade there too if you're crunching gears often. And heel-toe is really worth learning! Not only will you save wear on your synchros but if you can do it with skill, you'll save a lot of traction for braking. Being able to brake later = going faster longer = better lap time :D

Nice race car, btw.

Currently has Motorcraft Synthetic manual tranny gear oil (wanna say its 75-140) I plan on learning Heel-Toe my problem is that the pedals are to far apart and I havnt had time to do anything about it yet.

Thanks :)

What size shoe do you wear? I have stock pedals and wear a 10.5 and it's a pretty easy reach. I don't think there's much you can do to the pedals beyond covers in Spec7.

Belive their 11-12 (mainly wear boots which oddly use a diffrent size so Ive forgotton shoe sizes), if the ball of my foots on the brake and I try to rotate the heel itll hit the tranny tunnel, space is to big to allow me to just roll the foot over slightly and get both so that leaves me with having the brake pedal in the middle of my foot and rotating the heel which is so vastly diffrent then how I normally brake (with the ball of my foot) I just cant seem to get it right consistantly. Were allowed* to add pedal covers and bend the gas pedal (or brake but its much harder) so generally what you do is just get some cheapo covers from the local ricer store, replace stock hardware with real bolts/nuts and drill holes in the pedals to mount them getting the brake and gas as close together as you can without covering each other.

* At least in RMDiv

Those ricer pedal covers they sell at Pep Boys are actually pretty good. I had a set on my TII and although they looked ugly, they had a good feel.